And just like that it was over. The vacation I mean. Now I’m in the purgatory that is Incheon airport killing the long hours before my flight at 9:55 p.m.

But I’m killing those hours in style. For the first time ever I’ve booked myself a room at a transit hotel.

Had a Taco Bell lunch and I reckon I’ll kill some time with a nice nap before my 8:30 check-out time.

My last night in Seoul was reminiscent of many nights I’ve enjoyed over the years. As is my custom I started out at Shenanigans where I was joined by my nephew Justin and my friend Becky. We sat at the window and enjoyed the people watching on the street below while quaffing our brews. Later on Justin and I wandered over to Scrooge Pub so I could say a final goodbye to the owner there, a sexy Korean lass.

Had a little incident there though. Some guy (sounded Aussie) a couple of chairs down the bar from me told me not to smoke in the bar. I gave my standard response of “I’m not smoking, I’m vaping”. He said “I don’t care, it smells like shit, take it outside”. So, I’d been drinking but I managed to maintain my self control and simply responded “You don’t tell me what to do, if the owner wants me to go outside she can tell me”. He got the owner’s attention and she told him “e-cigarette is okay here”. So that was that. But I really hate assholes like that. If he had been polite about it bothering him I likely would have moved to the other side of the bar. But fuck him.

After Scrooge, we went to another bar (JJ’s) where I said some more goodbyes. And then I ended the night at the oldest bar in Itaewon, the Grand Ole Opry. The bar has been featured here at LTG several times over the years, including the story about my first visit in April 2005. It was funny re-reading that post just now, especially the comments from ex-wife #3 and one from my now deceased father.

In another example of the bar’s timelessness, last night’s waitress was the same woman who was working there when I first visited all those years ago. Back then there were lots of folks (including Koreans) who would be out on the dance floor doing some good ol’ country dancing. I was drunk and had the urge to get my two steppin’ on so I asked the waitress if she’d dance with me in exchange for a drink. She responded ok, but just one dance. And so we did and it was fun (at least for me). Afterwards I mentioned all the good times I had over the years and she surprised me with “yeah, but you were always bringing other girls to dance with”. Well, damn.

Anyway, stumbled back to the hotel shortly thereafter, slept late (for me), did a McDonald’s breakfast, read Kevin’s post about our lunch, then packed up and caught the Airport Limo out to Incheon. And here I sit reminiscing over the life I’m finally putting behind me.

It’s been quite a ride, wouldn’t have missed it for the world.

The life ahead of me includes my two loving dogs. And I’ll be home in time to make tomorrow’s Hash. I’m ready.

Our paths may never cross again
Maybe my heart will never mend
But I’m glad for all the good times
Cause you’ve brought me so much sunshine
And love was the best it’s ever been

I wouldn’t have missed it for the world
Wouldn’t have missed loving you girl
You’ve made my whole life worth while, with your smile
I wouldn’t trade one memory
Cause you mean too much to me
Even though I lost you girl
I wouldn’t have missed it for the world

They say that all good things must end
Loves comes and goes just like the wind
You’ve got your dreams to follow
But if I had the chance tomorrow
You know I’d do it all again

I wouldn’t have missed it for the world
Wouldn’t have missed loving you girl
You’ve made my whole life worth while, with your smile
I wouldn’t trade one memory
Cause you mean too much to me
Even though I lost you girl
I wouldn’t have missed it for the world

Oh I wouldn’t trade one memory
Cause you mean too much to me
Even though I lost you girl
I wouldn’t have missed it for the world

I wouldn’t have missed it for the world
Wouldn’t have missed loving you girl
You’ve made my whole life worth while, with your smile
I wouldn’t trade one memory
Cause you mean too much to me
Even though I lost you girl
I wouldn’t have missed it for the world

Yesterday I took a smooth 50 minute ride on the Korail ITX down to Pyeongtaek Station, then cabbed to my hotel in Anjeong-ri.

I lived here for exactly one year (left on the day my lease expired) and have been gone for just over one year. Still know a few folks here and hope I’ll be able to meet up with some of them between now and Thursday.

I’ve really been amazed at how much things have changed in the little burg of Anjeong-ri in only a year. Tons of new construction–high rise apartments, restaurants, and of course bars.

Speaking of bars I visited a few of my old haunts last night. I was a little surprised and touched that the staff in most of them remembered me and gave me a warm welcome back. Which is good because I didn’t see anyone else I knew out and about. I was astounded at being charged W8,000 (more than $7.00) for a San Miguel Light. I pay around a buck fifty for that same beer back home. At those prices I’m not sure I could afford to retire here! Not that I’d want to.

And speaking of IDK (I asked what that stood for but everyone says “I don’t know” so I still have no idea) Facebook reminded me this morning it was exactly two years ago that I won my first dart tournament down here.

Anyway, I got up this morning and had breakfast at a restaurant called “Me and You”. It’s where I had my first breakfast when I moved here. New location, but the food was the same (average). I was the only customer and the ajumma was delighted to have me, so that was nice.

After breakfast I caught a cab to Good Morning hospital in Pyeongtaek city to see about scheduling my physical examination. I had it done there last year and figured they’d have all that history to compare with this year’s result. Except they told me I wouldn’t get the results/consult with the doctor for two weeks! Well, that ain’t gonna work. So I won’t be getting an exam after all. Which was one of the primary reasons for making this trip. What a fiasco. And yes, I should have done my due diligence prior to traveling.

I walked home from the hospital which took close to two hours. This afternoon I did some of my park loops from the good ol’ days (which really weren’t all that good). I’m planning the long ass river walk that circumnavigates the perimeter of the Army base (outside the fence of course) in the morning.

Tonight? Well, I reckon I’ll visit the bars I missed last night. One guy wants to get together for darts so we’ll see about that as well.

And oh yeah, here’s a serious religious question I stumbled upon while perusing the internets today: Did Jesus shit? I report, you decide.

Peace out!

Here’s a quick update on my journey thus far.

Flew business class on Asiana which as usual was comfortable and well-serviced. Enjoyed a bowl of rice porridge and slept most of the trip. We arrived at Incheon right on schedule at 0700.

Since I was upfront, I was first off the plane and first in line at immigration. Sailed through there and headed down to baggage claim. I knew I’d have a wait, so I found a seat in the lavatory and enjoyed my first Korean bidet experience in over a year. After taking care of business I came out just as my bag was arriving on the carousel. Grabbed it and made my way to the airport railroad (AREX).

The express train didn’t leave until 8:10 arriving at Seoul Station forty minutes later. The “all-stops” train left at 7:40 and got me there sooner so I didn’t wait. Maybe should have as the train got crowded and a little uncomfortable. But I enjoyed the scenery along the way anyway. After being gone a little more than a year I was especially impressed with the infrastructure and just the way things “work” here. Pretty much the opposite of how things are in the Philippines.

Once I arrived at Seoul Station I made my way outside to the taxi stand and then decided to just walk to my hotel in Itaewon. It wasn’t even 9:00 a.m. yet and I doubted I’d be able to check-in so early. Walking wasn’t bad except for the dragging my wheeled suitcase behind me like a homeless person. Arm got tired after awhile but I switched out and carried on. The weather here is pleasantly cool and feels downright chilly compared to the hot sticky mess I had just left behind back home.

As I suspected the folks at the Crown hotel informed me that check-in wasn’t until 3:00 p.m. I asked (pleaded really) if I couldn’t get in earlier. The guy told me I could get the room at 1:00 and he wouldn’t charge me extra. I thanked him and checked my bags. Then I headed out to explore the mean streets of Itaewon.

I’m not sure if it’s the town that’s changed or if it is just me but it looked and felt different somehow. Some of the old familiar places were gone and others had moved to new locations. Lots of new shops and business too. It’s definitely an area in transition. Not real surprising given that almost all of the American military forces have moved south now. Still, plenty of foreigners out and about of course, just a different crowd.

And it wasn’t long before I started wrestling with the demons from the past again. I was a little surprised by how powerful those old memories were and how sad they made me. It was a good reminder that my life here has ended and I really am better off in the Philippines. How bad was I haunted? Almost to the point of contacting Asiana to see if I could change to an earlier departure date. Almost.

Anyway, I walked and walked. My former housekeeper Josie messaged me that she was at McDonlds so I met her there and we had a nice chat. Then I moved back out to the street and walked some more. Around 11:00 I was feeling hungry so I started looking for somewhere to eat. Linus’ BBQ wasn’t open yet and Manimals was closed too (permanently perhaps? The sign was somewhat ambiguous). Anyway, I decided to go for Mexican at On the Border.

After lunch I was able to check into my room and took a short nap. Then I did a nice walk along the Han riverside that looked like this:

Back to the room for a shower then I headed out for some nighttime activities at my favorite hangout–Shenanigans.

It was sweet when my favorite flower ajumma came in and saw me. She was so surprised and kind–gave me a big hug and told me how happy she was to see me again. I of course bought a bouquet flowers–just like old times.

I pay about $1.50 a beer in the PI. Here there were over $6.00. Ah well, I’m on vacation, but geez. Justin and I popped into Scrooge Pub which was pretty empty. The owner (a nice Korean woman I’m rather fond of) was not happy with her decision to get into the bar business, especially now that almost all her customer base is in Pyeongtaek. She wants to sell, but good luck finding a buyer. I told her we could open a bar together in Barretto but she didn’t seem interested in that idea at all. Ah well.

I was drunk and it was time to go home. A quick stop for a sundae at Dairy Queen and Justin and I said our goodnights. And so ended my first day back home in the Land of the Morning Calm.

Apparently.

One of the things I like about Barrio Baretto is that while it is a small town it has easy access to major conveniences, such as dining, shopping and of course, bars.  I’d reckon it is similar in size to Anjeong-ri (where I currently reside) but with more of an Itaewon vibe (lots of expats from around the world).

So anyway, earlier this week I walked into Rolling Stones bar for the first time ever.  And a guy shouts out, “hey John, I know you!”.  Well, it turns out it was a guy named Scott. He is a member of the local Hash club that I made Facebook friends with.

Yesterday I popped over to Cheap Charlie’s bar for a quick beer while Gem was napping.  The place was packed but I scoped out one open stool at the far end of the bar.  Once I was seated I noticed that the guy next to me was Scott, there with another Hasher friend.  After they left I saw a woman across the bar who looked vaguely familiar.  Finally, I recognized her as the sales girl in a small shop who had sold me a ball cap earlier in the day.  We made eye contact and I saw the confusion on her face. I called out that I was in her store earlier…then she remembered me.

Later as I was walking back to my hotel I was thinking about what a small town this truly is so hopefully it won’t take long to make friends and see lots of familiar faces while I’m out and about.  Then a Jeepney pulls ups, and out hop John and his girlfriend Mango, the only two people I actually know here.  Weird, huh?

And oh, later that evening while Gem and I were enjoying the floating bar at Arizona Resort, in walks Scott and his friend who sit at the table next to mine.  Turns out Scott was from Huntington Beach, CA, right next door to my hometown of Westminster.  I couldn’t help but remind him how we always kicked their ass in football on Friday nights.  Small town, small world.

Snapped this photo of the sun going down from the Arizona floater. Made it my FB profile picture. Later I noticed that Scott had taken a similar photo and made it HIS profile picture. Yeah, it’s getting a little strange, I know.

Had a fish and chips dinner at the Midnight Rambler. Saw this sign on the way out and thought it was good advice. So I took it.

We went to the Velvet Touch bar to hear some live music on a Saturday night.

Apparently the new “no smoking” ordinance is even more restrictive than I thought if this sign in the men’s room is any indication…

Enjoyed my final breakfast of the year at Treasure Island.

Then Gem and I hopped in a Jeepney for the short ride to the Navy base to get some walking and shopping done.

My challenge for the final night of 2017 is to stay sober enough awake to enjoy the countdown to 2018 and fireworks show.  We shall see.

Take a deep breath, relax, and accept the Filipino way.  Repeat as necessary.

I said that a lot on the way to Boracay.

The one hour Cebu Pacific flight from Manila to Caticaylan airport went without a hitch. Getting from that small airport to Boracay requires transport to the ferry depot, a short ferry ride to Boracay island, and then transport to your hotel.  During the flight it was announced that Cebu Pacific was now offering a package that would take you from the airport direct to your hotel all for just 550 pesos ($11).  Well, that seemed like a good deal just for the convenience factor so I ponied up the money.

So we land and deplane onto waiting buses.  Not unusual for small airports with no jet ways.  What I had never experienced before was having the bus exit the airport, drive through some small villages, and arriving at a small terminal 15 minutes later.  Well, I call it a terminal, it just seemed to be a room for bag claim.  Anyway, retrieved my luggage and walked outside where I was besieged by touts offering transportation.  I said no, I’ve already bought a ride from Cebu Pacific.  It took me awhile to figure out that Southwestern Tours was the contractor for this service.  Someone eventually pointed to a waiting van across the street.  The van driver told me I had to go this nearby window to get my ticket.  The ticket I got on the plane was just a voucher for the real ticket.  And so began the ordeal.

I was only second in line, but damn, you wouldn’t believe the paperwork.  I had to fill out a form, then receipts were printed, taxes (a 75 peso “environment” tax) collected, and so on.  I was then handed a stack of paper to carry with me and directed to board the van with about 20 other travelers.   We drove through some fairly heavy traffic for such a small village, but arrived at the ferry in due course.  Where we stood in line to go through security, including x-rays of the baggage.  Then we stood in another line where some of the paper I had been issued was collected.  We were then directed to the line for the ferry entrance, where more paper was taken from my stack.  There were lots of ferries to choose from, but I eventually found the Southwestern Tours boat.  I boarded and waited.  And waited.

Once we were full-up we made the quick trip (maybe 10 minutes) across the water and finally arrived at Boracay island.  Where we waited some more for a van to take us to our hotel.  I guess we had ten people in our van, and of course my hotel was the last one on the list.  Worse than that, it was just shy of total gridlock the entire way.  Who knew there could be so much traffic on such a small island?

Two hours later (no shit, two hours from the airport to my hotel, a total distance that couldn’t be more than 15 kms or so) I arrived.  Sort of.  My hotel is at the far end of the beach and the road doesn’t go that far.  Seriously, it was a two block walk through the sand to get to the hotel.

I repeated my mantra like a Catholic praying to Mary for most of the ride.  Welcome to the Philippines!

So, that was the bad part.  So far, Boracay has been pretty nice otherwise.  Just some quick geography before we go to the pictures.  Boracay is divided into three stations. The ferry arrives at Station 3, most of the tourist resorts are in Station 2, and my hotel is at the far end of Station 1.  At first I was distressed at being so far from the “action” but after witnessing that action, I’m very pleased to be on the relatively quiet end of the island.

The ferry port, Station 3 Boracay island.

The view from my hotel..the Aritista. Not bad, eh?

The beach at Station 3 Boracay. My hotel is at the end of the beach…

The Station 3 water view…

The Spider House. Had dinner here the first night. Interesting set of stairs to get up there and really cool ambiance and views. Food was mediocre and the service was worse than terrible.

Sunset on the water…

And the harvest moon…

The water is crystal clear here. Puts Subic to shame in that regard.

Took a goodly long walk yesterday (22,000 steps all told). Most of it was on the beach, but this was part of the trail as well. Would not walk it at night or after drinking though…

Who says there are no virgins in the Philippines?

Lots of beachside bars like this…

Beautiful places, smiling faces…

I’ve only tried muff diving…

Station 2 beach scene. Now you can see why I’m glad to be in Station 1. I’d say 85% of the tourists here are Korean and Chinese.

Lots of Hanguel signage and Korean food. And to a lesser degree, Chinese as well. Clearly catering to their tourist base.

Lots of diving places back in Station 3.

This is the National Highway that runs the length of the island. The only highway apparently. Very narrow two lane. And as I mentioned, it often results in gridlock. I walked back to the hotel this way and it was not pleasant. I’ll stick to the beach from here on out.
This is also why I’m unlikely to ever return here. Lots of new hotels under construction but no work on the supporting infrastructure. What is bad now is only going to get worse.

Last night I helped my tour guide/caregiver Loraine celebrate her 50th birthday…

A restaurant I will NOT be trying. What next, a building named Trump?

And that pretty much captures the highlights of Day 2.

Stay tuned!

It was a good trip to the Philippines for the most part.  In fact, other than starting and ending my vacation in Angeles City, it was quite lovely.  I despise AC and the whole sexpat vibe.  Just looking at the old decrepit “whore mongers” (a term they actually call themselves) made me shake my head in disgust.  As much as I am down on how trivially I’m living my life, I am so glad that my future will not include being a lonely old man looking for love in all the wrong places.

Which is not to say I didn’t spend a goodly amount of my nighttime hours in the girly bars of Olongapo’s Barrio Baretto.  It’s a way to pass the time and I enjoy treating the girls to something a little different from what they are used to.   My style is to pass out chocolate (I’m told the bargirls call me “the candyman”), tip the dancers for their efforts, and pick out one or two deserving girls for a lady drink (an overpriced beverage from which they earn a commission) and a little conversation.  It seems to make their night and I enjoy seeing them smile.

Of course, it’s one thing to get a little wild on vacation, but I can’t sustain that lifestyle long term once I retire.  I expect I’ll visit the “regular” bars for darting events a couple times a week and perhaps limit my role as candyman to only one night.  As the prophet has said, man does not live by bars alone.

I mentioned my doctor consult, but forgot to say what that appointment cost me.  400 pesos!  Which translates to $8.00 at the current exchange rate.  I didn’t do a lot of serious house hunting because I’m not yet sure when I will quit my job, and really I’ll need to be on the ground to make that decision.  I did find one place right on the beach.  Small one bedroom house, but a huge yard.  Only 20,000 pesos a month ($400.00).  Eh, when I looked inside though it was just too old and worn out for my first world tastes.  Plenty of time to find the right place for me as I don’t intend to live poor in my old age.  

Baretto is similar in size to Anjeong-ri, and I was remembered in some places from my previous visits and also made some new friends as well.  It is nice to be greeted with “welcome Sir John” or “San Miguel Light, sir?” when I enter a bar or restaurant.  I was walking down the main street one evening and a young woman came running up to me and said “John! Glad you are in town.  We need a player for dart league tonight!”  Heh. Makes me feel kinda at home.

A big difference to Anjeong-ri is the age demographic in Baretto.  Hell, most nights I was the youngest fucker in the bar (and by some accounts at least the most handsome).  I could get used to that!

Living and eating large caused my belly to bloat and this week’s weigh-in finds me back up to 225 pounds.  I intend to work hard at reversing that trend.

Getting back to my current home was not much fun.  My 0130 flight was delayed over an hour which made an already long day particularly hellish.  I rode the AREX to Seoul Station, cabbed to my old office (where my car was parked) and then started the hour and a half drive to Pyeongtaek.  Halfway there I ran out of gas.  Well, not my car.  Me.  I was afraid I was about to fall asleep at the wheel, so I had to pull off the highway and take a power nap.  That was enough to get me the rest of the way home.  

And now it is on with my not so exciting country life.  That won’t stop me for writing about it no doubt. Stay tuned!