Or at least not working as well as it once did. I’m not a big fan of Angeles City, but it made me a little sad to see what the impact on the government’s response to COVID has done to the once-thriving bar district here. Almost all the hotels on Walking street were closed down. More than half the bars were shuttered as well. I guess that really shouldn’t come as a surprise since almost all the businesses here cater to an international tourist clientele. When even the Korean-owned bars and restaurants aren’t functioning, you know times are indeed hard. In a way, it is ironic that Barretto, always AC’s ugly little sister, is comparatively thriving now. The difference is that Filipinos are flocking to the Subic Bay beaches, there is no similar attraction to draw the locals here. Once international tourism is restored I expect Angeles will make a comeback.
In the meantime, I’m here and enjoying the change of scenery, sad though it may be. My hotel is probably somewhere between 2 and 3 stars, which is adequate. A little over $100. for three nights ain’t too bad I suppose. Signed up for the Hash activities which included a bar hop last night, a 7K hike today, and the big anniversary event tomorrow. I’m still a little nervous about being transported way out of town into unfamiliar territory, but I know several of my fellow Subic Hashers are old and slow like me, so if we stick together, things should be fine.
Here are a few photos from the trip so far:
My place of lodging for the weekend.The hotel bar with a Cuban theme.Not sure what this love affair for Che and Castro is all about. But the beer was cold and that’s what I was there for.Walking Street on a late Friday afternoon. It was shocking to see this once popular tourist area so deserted. Back again after dark and nothing much had changed.This bar on A. Santos street was where we signed up for the Hash. Back when I was a tourist here for the first time (2007), Santos was known for it’s blowjob bars. They are all gone now, which, ahem, really sucks.The first stop on the bar crawl. The gals weren’t too cute but there were lots of them, 50 or more. And they did dance routines that were quite impressive. Rather enjoyed the show.The bar also featured those gender neutral comfort rooms I’ve been hearing about.A Walking Street street scene. Still a big Korean influence here.The second stop on the bar crawl. This is one of the bars from my old tourist days that still exists. Nothing special, a few bored dancers doing a lackluster shuffle. Service was good though and I bought my waitress a lady drink.I was hungry so bailed on the bar crawl and came here–one of my favorite restaurants in town.I’ve been jonesing for some decent Tex-Mex for quite some time. These chicken enchiladas were done up right!This morning I took a walk in search of some breakfast. Saw the Hotel America was shut down. I’m not sure what this sign says, but it was displayed prominently on the side of the building.Found a place to eat and got a chuckle from this advice at the bottom of the menu.Loaded up on carbs with this serving of French toast. Figured I’d need them for today’s trail.And my Corona Hash anniversary shirt.
And that brings you up-to-date. Time to get rolling for today’s ordeal hike. Look for a full report on that adventure here tomorrow.
No, not this kind. I’m talking about the Haggis Bash Hash. This was part of the food that was served after the event, but I did not stick around to partake.It was kinda interesting to see the reverence to which the Haggis above was treated. Brought into the venue on a platter accompanied by bagpipe music. Sorry the picture is so blurry, I might have been drunk.
Anyway, it was a mostly fun and interesting day. We started out with a 6.5K trail that was blessedly flat.
And it’s “on-on” in La Union!The trail meandered through fields of corn, grapes, and rice.As seems to be my bane, we had some water crossings on unstable bridges. That’s Slot Licker from Subic encouraging me on across a swaying suspension bridge.Now, this one didn’t scare me at all. Still, I almost lost my balance but made it over with dry feet.And these damn bamboo things just weren’t designed to support my weight. Well, I made it safely–praise be to the Hash Gods…That’s more like it!Where corn comes from.
Anyway, you get the idea. Typical Hash excursion, just in a new venue. Of course, the big event was still to come: the Haggis games.
Sorry the picture is fuzzy, there were 12 events in all. Sadly, I neglected to photograph most of them. We were competing against teams from Angeles City and of course, the La Union Hash.The Hash Bash Grand Master of Ceremonies…And I guess it wouldn’t be Haggis without bagpipes…The pole toss event…There were over 180 Hashers in attendance. Had to step back a bit to capture the enormity of the crowd.
We (Subic) were actually kicking ass in most of the early categories and had a comfortable lead in points. This was stuff like the races–dwarf carry (a guy carried a girl), sack races and the like. And then there came the dancing…
The Subic dancers performed brilliantly. The judges were all from La Union though and they saw fit to award us third place. Totally subjective and disappointing.
We dropped a couple of other events like pie-eating (meat pie that is). So it all came down to the tug-of-war at the end. Angeles City outweighed us healthy Subic guys on the rope by quite a bit and in the end, they proved unmovable. Ah well, it was all in good fun.
That’s me with the second place trophy. See you bastards next year for a revenge tug!
Back home in lovely Barretto again. I will say this about La Union: the women there are on average much more to my taste than what I find in my little town. The waitresses in both Bella’s and Blue Cat were just so damn cute! Not to mention, they provided outstanding service. That’s a winning combination anywhere.
That’s Anne, my personal favorite. What a smile! What an ass! She was really busy on Saturday morning and working alone. I got frustrated and went next door to Blue Cat for breakfast. She was still apologizing to me this morning. I don’t think I’d like living in La Union, but if I had a gal like this loving me there, I might just change my mind.I’m a Haggis Basher now! See you next year! You too, Anne. I hope.
Yesterday I got registered for today’s Haggis Hash. For my P1000 fee ($20) I received a bag full of Hash trash.
Said bag which contained my Hash gear…Including this ball cap……a sweat towel……these kilt-like looking shorts……and of course, the traditional commemorative Hash shirt.
I’m all decked out for today’s Haggis…
The shorts are ridiculous, probably the only time I’ll ever wear them…And I’m wearing my Subic shirt to represent my team in the Haggis events this afternoon.
Last night we did the “Full Moon Hash” which in actuality is a male-only bar crawl. Of course, there ain’t many bars here, but we hit three of them. What was unusual was the “entertainment” provided–dancing girls dancing. Then dancing without their tops. And finally dancing naked! I’ve seen that in Thailand, but never the Philippines which tends to lean conservative when it comes to sexual mores. I know these shows were specifically put on for our benefit, but still, it seemed pretty risky. The doors weren’t locked and there were non-Hashers in the bars.
And I guess I really am turning into a grumpy old man. I like women just fine, even tattooed prostitutes. Their pussies right up in my face? Not so much. Some of the other guys seemed to really be into it though, at least their tongues were. Yuck! Anyway, I find women more attractive when something is left to the imagination. That’s just how I roll.
At the third bar, we did a Hash circle. I’d had a few beers by then and just wasn’t much in the mood for the usual chicanery. At the La Union Hash, they don’t use ice for punishment. Instead, you drink from this:
No idea what the concoction inside truly is, but obviously it looks like shit. Didn’t get the opportunity to taste any either. I bailed before the circle was completed.
I’m just too old for that crap. Hope it is more fun today. Stay tuned.
Quiet night here yesterday. Just hung out at the hotel bar and watched the sun go down.
Down she goes……see you in the morning!
Once the sun’s entertainment was completed, I took some time to observe my fellow patrons at the bar. Damn, I’m old but these guys looked ancient to me! Lots of old fucks in Barretto too of course but I think the oldsters stand out here because there is no infusion of young tourists. Having said that, it appeared they all were making the best of their golden years, enjoying camaraderie and laughs with each other. I was impressed that one guy with non-functioning legs rode into the bar on an electric scooter. Another guy looked like something out of The Walking Dead, barely able to stand, unsteady hands, and a gnarly and wrinkled body. Must have been well into his 80s and yet there he sat enjoying a beer and watching the ocean. You know, I want to live for as long as I can do the things I enjoy doing, There will come a time when maybe some good company and cold beer will be all I need. Hell, maybe that time has already come!
And I’m not blowing smoke!
That’s vapor, not smoke! I was making an impressive cloud though, wasn’t I?
Breakfast in the hotel as well this morning. I must say I was impressed with the enormity of the meal:
Not shown is a heaping helping of beans served up in a bowl right after I took this photo. One of the better breakfasts I’ve had in a while.
I guess I’m doing alright for an old guy. Think I’ll take a nap.
Arrived safely yesterday afternoon after a 3.5-hour drive. The “safely” part is always in doubt, especially when my driver is in heavy traffic on a two-lane highway. He gets pretty damn aggressive; passing on the shoulder, tailgating, and cutting it close when passing in the face of oncoming traffic. Ah, well. It was exciting at least.
I always enjoy seeing new places, partly for the experience but also to see if it may be a potential alternative should the need ever arise for me to relocate. Bauang, the actual city I’m in within the province of La Union, is a pretty enough beach town. There is an elderly expat community and a few bars to serve them, including a couple of girly bars. So I guess I’d fit right in. What I don’t like is being so far away from everything else. In Barretto, I’m just over an hour from an international airport and 20 minutes away from malls and grocery stores that cater to my needs. I just don’t think I’d deal well with feeling so isolated. That’s my first impression at least.
This is the place I’m staying. Not up to my standards but convenient to the Hash events. At least I stayed here because it is where everyone else in my group is staying. Very uncomfortable bed though.This little bar is right next door to my hotel and I enjoyed quaffing some brews in here yesterday.I asked my waitress if I could get a photo of her uniform. I thought it a little funny that I hang out at Alley Cats in Barretto. Plus, she has a sweet ass.The Blue Cat is an expat hangout and also a Hash venue. The guy on the right actually moved here from Barretto six years ago with his wife and child. He says he couldn’t stay out of the bars in Barretto. Well, you see where I met him. After the sun went down, we moved up the highway to one of the girly bars. I honestly didn’t like it and bailed out pretty early. Got back to Blue Cat before 9 and it was already closed! I guess these old fuckers are early birds… I was up early this morning and neither my hovel hotel restaurant or Blue Cat was open. So, I walked up the highway looking for a place to get some coffee. Found a nice hotel and they were open for business. Wish I’d stayed here. Next time!After breakfast, I took a long walk on the beach. Much cleaner than Barretto.I wonder what the story is here……it was like a ghost town on the beach. I’m guessing damage from a long-ago storm…I live on a bay so it’s been a long time since I’ve seen a surfer… It was a lovely morning for a walk on the beach…
And now it is beer o’çlock and my Hash mates are waiting. More to come!
My short visit to Korea has now reached its conclusion. All in all, it went much better than the previous trip. I think going for five days versus two weeks helped. I also was mostly successful at defending myself from sad memories whenever they attacked, sending them back to the past where they belong.
Otherwise, my only real takeaway was that as much as I love Korea it is no longer home. Even the familiar places are not all that familiar now. Just as an example, Shenanigans was my favorite hangout for years. Last night they had a big crowd and a happy buzz. But with just a couple of exceptions, none of the faces were familiar. That’s natural of course, I’ve been gone quite a while now. But I found myself missing my life here in the Philippines. I came away knowing that this is where I belong. It’s good to be back!
Had some good times though and I’ve already recounted those on the blog. You can read Kevin Kim’s take on our massive hike and tasty meal here. Thanks again!
So after a couple of beers with the nephew, I called it an early night. My flight departed at 7:55 a.m. and the best way I could find to Incheon was by the airport limo bus. That required getting up at 0400 and catching the bus at 4:40.
The stop was right in front of my hotel which was convenient at least. I was the only passenger at that ungodly hour when I boarded. We did pick up several more en route though.
I was on Korean Air which meant departing from Terminal 2. It’s a bit longer trip and we didn’t arrive until 6:15. That’s cutting it closer than I like, especially for an international flight. But I was in business class which meant no long wait to check-in. I got my boarding pass and checked my bag then headed to security, which was just opening (so I forgave myself for not taking the earlier bus). And as usual, my vapes triggered a secondary screening of my carry on bag. The guy asked why so many batteries (I had brought 7 and purchased 12 more to bring home with me). I explained that the 12 were replacements as my current batteries were wearing out. So, it was all good and I proceeded on through immigration without a hitch.
Once in the terminal, I went to one of the duty-free stores to purchase some pasalubong, the Filipino gift-giving custom expected of returning travelers. I had some Won I needed to dispose of anyway, so I’ll make some bargirls smile with trinkets and sweets.
When it came time to board the plane, my boarding pass set off a beep and I was pulled aside. The agent asked if I had e-cigarettes in my checked luggage. I responded of course not, that’s isn’t allowed. She told me to hold on, they were sending a picture. And sure enough, one of my vape pens had made its way into my checked bag. All I can figure is that I left it in a pocket and inadvertently packed it with my dirty clothes. I was relieved to learn my bag was on the plane and with no time to retrieve my e-cig I told her to just trash it. Damn, my vaping habit is getting to be a pain in the ass, isn’t it?
I do enjoy the comfort and friendliness of Korean Air. And the hot flight attendants.
I reclined my seat, stretched out my legs and settled in for a cozy and comfortable trip home.
We landed at Clark Field a few minutes early and I was the first person off the plane. Made it through immigration in a flash and then headed to baggage claim where I waited. And waited. And waited some more. I finally asked what was going on and was told there was only one baggage crew on duty and they were busy unloading another flight. And so I did what I’ve trained myself to do–took a deep breath, relaxed, and accepted the Filipino way.
After about 30 minutes the first bag appeared on the carousel, and mine was the third one to come out. I grabbed it and hustled over to customs. Where I encountered a long line (the plane that had been unloaded before ours apparently). Ah well. For whatever reason, they x-ray bags coming off the plane at Clark. When I reached the machine, the operator said just my carry-on bag had to go on the belt. Hmm. I got a bit nervous because I had all those vapes and the President here has decreed them verboten. I guess the operator didn’t notice them or didn’t care, so I grabbed my bag and headed out to meet my driver.
Donny was there waiting, which I appreciated. On the drive home I had him stop at one of my favorite restaurants on the old Navy base–Texas Joe’s.
I enjoyed me some pulled pork, beans, and slaw. Donny had some baby back ribs.
What a way to spend my last day in Seoul! My buddy Kevin Kim shamed enticed me into taking a hike from his residence in Daechang out to Bundang, “only” 18 kilometers upriver. Now, I’ve marched that distance before, but never in one continuous walk. My normal routine is to do a morning hike, nap, then another afternoon hike. Well, it seemed like a challenge I’d have to try to accomplish, and so we set out bright and early this morning on our quest.
Noksapyeong subway station was pretty quiet at 0700…It was pretty chilly too, just a tad below freezing…What the fuck have I got myself into?
Got to Kevin’s place right about 8 and he was waiting outside and rarin’ to go. I hadn’t eaten anything, not even a cup of coffee, but we set out on our journey anyway. I thought I might see a convenience store along the way, but that was a big nope. So, I hiked hungry. My grumbling belly took my mind off the pain in my legs and feet, so there was that.
Getting started.The waterway we followed…A stable water crossing…I appreciated that after all those scary bridges in the Philippines.Birds of a feather flock together.Winter water…Here’s the satellite view of the path we walked. It looks shorter from space.
It took us right at four hours to finish the hike. Then we jumped on a crowded subway back to Kevin’s place. He had promised to make my starvation worthwhile and he kept that promise!
Some fresh-baked chicken roulade…And a plate full of Thanksgiving leftovers made for a damn fine meal.Whatever may have remained of my hunger pangs was satiated with this generous portion of bread pudding. Damn it was good!
Shortly after our meal, I could feel myself fading away. I’d missed my daily nap and that long-ass hike had sucked all the energy from my body. So, with aching legs and a full belly, I said my goodbyes to my gracious host. Thanks again, Kevin!
It was good exploring new paths in an unfamiliar part of town. I couldn’t have done it without you! But man are my dogs tired!
Back in Seoul after an uneventful final night in the village of Anjeong-ri. And I’m pretty certain it was indeed the final time I’ll have a reason to venture out to Pyeongtaek. There’s really nothing there for me now. I wish I had appreciated the good things I had when I was living there but perhaps coming to understand and accept what was, and finding peace with that, made this trip worthwhile. It’s all in the past now and I come away knowing that my life in Barretto is where I belong. At least for now.
Two nights and a day left on this trip here in Seoul. I’ll be with the nephew and a couple of friends tonight for dinner and some drinking. Tomorrow I’ll be meeting up with Kevin Kim, the famous Incheon to Busan walker, for a “pleasant” five to six-hour hike to Bundang, wherever the hell that is. I’m a bit nervous because that’s about twice as far as I normally walk in a day, and my walks are broken up into morning and afternoon segments. Should be interesting to see how my body responds. Especially in this cold weather. Kevin is also planning a home-prepared meal for after the hike, assuming I survive.
I’m trying to keep my focus on all that I have to be thankful for in life, not the things that I’ve lost and miss. It’s still a struggle at times, but thus far I’m doing much better at avoiding being sucked into the memory hole this trip.
Last night I had a pleasant pork galbi dinner with my former Deputy. She doesn’t drink, so we parted company after we finished our meal. I met up with an old dart buddy and his wife afterward and we caught up over some beers. We said our goodnights at a bar I used to frequent named Arirang. I was sweet on one of the bartenders there back in the day, but alas, she was not at work, she was playing a pool league match.
Next, I ventured over to another of my old haunts, Horse and Cow. I was greeted warmly by the owner, a woman I know only as “mama”.
That’s me saying my goodbye to Mama on my last night before moving to Korea.
Horse and Cow has some history for me. It was where I was the night Loraine sent me her devastating breakup text message. It was also where I met and very briefly dated a Filipina bartender named Joy. Oh man, did that end badly! It was my fault and she was unforgiving. So I was very surprised to see her working last night (she had quit the bar right around the time of our breakup). She didn’t seem all that happy to see me again, but at least she responded to my greeting. She hadn’t spoken to me since the night I called her a f’n bitch (yelled it actually) on the street. Long story that I’m not going to retell now. Anyway, I decided to move on to another bar.
Crystal Bar was another regular stop on my circuit back in the day. And once again I was given a hearty welcome from an old friend working the bar, Seonnyeo.
That’s her on the right…
And wouldn’t you know it? Hana, the girl from Arirang, was playing her pool league match at Crystal. She came over and greeted me as well.
I really liked this one, but sadly it was not a mutual attraction. Then or now.
Anyway, I bought Seonnyo a lady drink, finished my beer and headed out. A few minutes later I received this message from her:
Handsome John! Thanks for you stop by crystal tonight! you’re not forgot here I’m so glad to see u again tonight. It was ssooo surprised me!
Ain’t that sweet?
I popped into the bar next door, one I had kind of scratched off my list of places I’d visit when I still lived here. I was somewhat taken aback to be greeted by name by a woman I didn’t recognize. She told me that another woman I briefly dated, Mi Young, and her had gotten into a fight about me. The explanation was a bit fuzzy or I was a bit drunk, or both, but I had no recollection of anything like that happening. Strange. Anyway, she’s a Filipina and a new Facebook friend:
Nice to meet you (again?) Bon Ivy!
Prudence prevailed and I headed back to my hotel shortly thereafter.
Met up with my old team today for a non-traditional Thanksgiving feast. And when I’m in Korea, that means grilled meats.
Fire it up!Chowin’down!
I was a bit melancholy when after a coffee shop waffle dessert I said my goodbyes. Likely for the last time. It was a good run, but time moves forward, not back.
I walked to the hotel from the coffee shop, a path I often walked when this is where I lived. And then I passed a small store with some hiking pants on display outside. I went inside not hopeful they’d have my size, but after trying on two pairs, one of them actually fit! So for only W12,000 my upcoming massive hike on Saturday will at least be somewhat more comfortable from the waist down.
Some Mexican food and another bar crawl are on tap for tonight.
Greetings from Korea! Just a quick post to update my faithful followers on the journey thus far.
No issues getting here which is always a plus.
I flew out of the Philippines on Korean Air and enjoyed this nice large business class seat. Yeah, I paid a premium for the privilege.
Another nice perk is being one of the first off the plane. I got through immigration in five minutes or so, and my bag with “priority” handling was one of the first off the plane. Exchanged some dollars for Won then I scooted out to the AREX and caught the express train to Seoul Station with barely a wait.
If I had any trouble on the trip at all it was with the cab I caught to take me to my lodging. I took the first taxi in the queue and said “Crown hotel Itaewon please”. The driver looked at me and either he didn’t understand or didn’t know where the hotel was. So, I repeated again with the same response. Finally, a little frustrated, I just said “Itaewon, near Noksapyeong Station.” He seemed to understand that and off we went. Now, the route he took had me shaking my head, certainly never the way I’ve gone from Seoul Station before. We wound up going through the Namsan tunnel but the roundabout way got us there. Truthfully, it probably didn’t add much if anything to the fare. The fare was around W8,000 and all I had on me was 50,000 notes. He looked at me like I was crazy and said “pay with card!” I guess he meant the T-money card, but I don’t have one. So I told him to wait while I go inside to get change. He did, I did, I paid, tipped, and he left. In retrospect, I honestly think he didn’t know where the hotel was located.
So, after checking in and dropping off my bags I hurried out to Shenanigans to meet my friends Wan Jun and Becky. They were waiting when I arrived. We enjoyed a couple of beers and some chat and then called it a night. I drank the local OB draft beer (W3500) because I just couldn’t bear to pay W7000 for a San Miguel beer I can buy for a buck back home.
I was up earlier than normal this morning, mostly due to the fact that Korea time is an hour later than my body says it is. Showered, dressed and caught a cab (without incident) to Yongsan Station.
Rode this ITX train to Pyeontaek station and it took less than an hour. A nice ride. Korea definitely has first world infrastructure!
Another cab ride from Pyeontaek to my hotel in Anjeong-ri. Too early to check-in, so dropped my bags and had a look around town. Not much has changed since my last visit, although I noted a couple of new bars have opened and some business I didn’t think would make it remain open. I had another hour to kill before my lunchtime engagement so naturally, I took a walk.
I did the river walk and I could definitely feel the chill in the air. Well, technically, I felt it in my lungs. Cold air and COPD is apparently not a good combination. Hopefully, I’ll get acclimated to it before my big hike on Saturday.
I crashed joined the party as my former staff honored the retirement of Mr. So after 49 years of service with USFK.
Good luck to you and enjoy your1 well-earned retirement
Got dropped off at the hotel after lunch and took a much-needed nap. Tonight I’m having dinner with my former Deputy to get caught up on all the happenings. She’ll be leaving for a new job in the States next month and part of the motivation for this trip was to give her a proper goodbye.
After dinner, I plan to visit some of my old haunts (yeah, I mean the bars). So far at least I’m keeping the past in the past and just trying to enjoy myself. I guess my insight is that I didn’t let myself enjoy my one year living here because I was too busy swimming in self-pity. Ah well, that was then, this is now.
Greetings from Clark International Airport in less than lovely Angeles City. I’m currently ensconced in the Korean Air lounge with an hour to kill before boarding my flight to Incheon. So I’m going to kill it with you.
How long is the trip between summer and winter? Well, today it’s gonna be a four-hour journey. Since winter does not exist in the Philippines I do not possess much in the way of cold weather garments. I did rummage through the guest room closet to see what I might have stashed in there after the move.
Turns out I do have a jacket. Now, that’s not a winter coat by a long shot but it’s a start… And I have my old 8th Army sweater that I can wear underneath the jacket…And if things get really cold I can wear this sweatshirt under the sweater.
I guess that’s as prepared as it’s gonna get for me. Wish me luck! (I have no idea why those last two photos are coming up sideways, I didn’t save them that way. Sorry!)
Had an okay Hash yesterday, the Hare, Almoranus, gave us a steep climb up the big mountain. But once up top, his trail took us on a gentle downward trajectory to the beach and we walked the beach most of the way back to our on-home at Midnight Rambler. Here are some photos from the journey:
The short version of the trail was about 7.5K…Offloading from the Hashmobile…And after crossing the highway we immediately began our ascent.This bridge wasn’t really so bad compared to some I’ve crossed…Looking back down at the bay as we climb…A mountain home.So, whenever I start bitching about how tough it is on the trail it seems I see something that humbles me…Looking down on Olongapo City from our mountaintop vantage point.Back down on the beach…It was high tide so that meant climbing over some big rocks or wading in the water. I climbed, Pubic Head waded.Safely back “on-home” in time to enjoy a sunset on the bay.
Alrighty then. Time to say so long to the Philippines for now. Korea here I come!
Making final preparations for my trip to Korea tomorrow. In some ways revisiting my old haunts feels almost like traveling back in time. Except I know what the future holds. On my last trip, I wound up getting overwhelmed by memories and got depressed enough that I cut the visit short. I’m playing it safe this time by limiting myself to five days in country. Yeah, I’m pathetic I know.
Speaking of time travel, I came across this YouTube clip that is actually quite funny. I sometimes fantasize about having a time machine but I think the video makes a valid point about the physics involved, albeit in a humorous fashion. It’s only five minutes long, give it a watch:
Of course, Facebook takes me back in time on a regular basis through its memories feature.
That’s me seven years ago…
And this is the crowd I used to hang with. The bar, Bull and Barrel, is long gone as are most of the people. One dead, one in jail, a couple deported, others went home. Me? I got divorced and moved to the Philippines. Everything changes.
What else? Well, how about this article about the evolution of a dog’s love. I don’t know about the science involved, but you should hear my two go nuts when I come home after a night on the town. You’d think I’d been gone for years. Buddy stands on his hind legs and actually gives me hugs. It’s pretty damn sweet, that’s for sure.
“Play dead, Lucky!” Heh, I wish I could train him that good. That’s just the way he sleeps. He’s actually quite stupid, but he’s a good boy…
I went ahead a purchased the premium plan for my Spotify music app. It works so much better than YouTube for hiking entertainment, especially given the spotty data network in these parts. Plus there are no commercials and I’m able to build playlists so I like every song I hear. I’ve made two lists so far–“Walk and Roll” and “Walkaholic”. Good stuff!
I did a pleasant 8K valley hike yesterday. I’m scheduled to be the Hare on December 16, so I might just piss off the masochists with a nice flat trail. We’ll see.
Alright, time to finish packing and get ready for today’s Hash. I saw part of the trail on this morning’s walk, so I reckon the Hare’s are taking us up the big mountain again. Bastards!
Be it ever so humble, I’m back home to reality. I’ll take it as a good sign that I’m happy to be here.
My last night in Vietnam was spent at an Aussie bar named Blue Gecko, playing darts with my old friends Alex and John, along with my new dart league teammates who made me feel welcome. I was pleased to play well enough to win all the games in which I participated, and that contributed to an upset of one of the top ranked teams in the league. A team consisting of Filipinos, which I thought was a little ironic.
Speaking of John, he was involved in a motor scooter accident after our dinner gathering on Saturday night. I felt especially bad because during dinner I had asked him about how dangerous it looks to ride in this city and whether he had ever experienced a crash. He hadn’t. Until I jinxed him I guess.
He was lucky coming out of it with just a cut above the eye, a shiner, a gash on his knee, and some whiplash. He wasn’t up to playing darts so I was happy to fill in on his behalf.
Got home from the bar late (for me) and had a 5:30 a.m. alarm, ahead of my 6:30 ride to the airport for my flight’s 9:30 departure. All were accomplished on time, no thanks to the Vietnamese immigration departure queue. Longest damn line I ever did see, but I made it through with 30 minutes to spare.
The fact that I was flying on the anniversary of 9/11 didn’t escape my thoughts. I couldn’t help but notice the Muslim gentleman sitting on the aisle across from me (as evidenced by his beard and taqiyah), but I figured the odds were good that he was a peaceful follower of the faith. Still, when the flight attendant serving lunch reached our row and announced they were out of chicken and only had a pork dish remaining, I surreptitiously watched for his reaction. It was just a shrug and he went without. Mine was up to the standards you’d expect from a third world airline. We landed safely, avoiding damaging any buildings along the way.
My regular driver, Donny, was ill but he sent someone to pick me up as scheduled. We got stuck in Manila’s notorious traffic (crawling along bumper-to-bumper for over two hours). I guess the distance we traveled in that time to be maybe ten kilometers. I know I can walk faster than we were moving. Anyway, once we reached the expressway things went better, but it was still over 5 hours of driving all told. I hate Manila and try to avoid flying out of there, but there were no direct flights to Saigon from my preferred airport in Angeles City. Oh well, it’s done.
My dogs were ecstatic to see me, and it’s always good to feel that kind of pure love. The first thing my domestic helper said to me was “you’ve gained some weight”. Nice to see you too! She’s right though, I threw my semi-good eating habits out the window, reasoning that I was on vacation so why not? I also got in fewer steps than normal, and it shows. I’ve not gotten on the scale yet, but I’ve set a new reduction goal–down to 190 pounds.
In that regard, I’m re-instituting a strict(er) low carb diet regimen (didn’t even buy ice cream at the grocery store today!) and will get back into my 20,000+ steps per day habit. I’m planning on doing that intermittent fasting thing too–a hearty low-carb breakfast and not much else until a light evening meal. I will of course continue drinking beers, but at least I’m back on those low calorie San Miguel Zero’s.
And there you have it, one day back and already my blog is boring again. Normal ain’t so bad!
I fly out in the morning, so here’s a photo essay of my final hours in Saigon.
Monday night on Walking Street, the bar area in the “backpacker” district. Walking street is a bit of a misnomer, given that there was still plenty of motorbike traffic to avoid…This sign gave me a chuckle, although it was not enough to lure me in…I reckon I’ll miss Saigon some, but probably not the Miss Saigon…Truth be told, I didn’t really like the Walking street experience at all. It seemed like every bar was trying to out blast their neighbor’s bullshit music. Just give me that ole time rock-n-roll! Pretty busy for a Monday evening and it was obvious that the bars were going for a younger crowd. I don’t fit that demographic anymore nor do I want to…Hmm, what should I eat?Ah, this will do! Yeah, I had a burger and fries in Vietnam. Man does not live by Pho alone!So much to learn, so little time…An oyster bar snack, then bedtime…Up early this morning and after the hotel buffet, I headed out for my walk. Wound up down by the Saigon river.This is a tough city to walk in. Most streets have sidewalks but they serve mostly as motorcycle parking areas. It was a nice break to have an unobstructed path to walk and no need to dodge traffic…Enjoying the Saigon River views…Some type of government building. The red star Vietnamese flag and the omnipresent hammer and cycle are testaments to the communist heritage of the united Vietnam…And yet, free enterprise abounds as evidenced by the Ho Chi Minh stock exchange…And religion is openly practiced as well, at least the nuns I saw weren’t shy about parading about in their habits…Remnants of the war to expel the imperialist invaders and reunite the people of Vietnam, as seen at the Ho Chi Minh museum.The worst part of Saigon? Well, 7 million motorbikes make walking around a hazardous undertaking…The best part of Saigon? Well, I’ve got to say that the beauty of the Vietnamese women certainly rivals that of the Korean females I’ve so dearly loved…And after much exploration and trial and error, I can declare the In Sai Gong rooftop bar as my favorite watering hole. Although I never did have a water there…Here’s a job I could never do. Gave me the willies just watching them swing around up there like Spiderman…After all that walking, I was ready for some lunch. Chose this Vietnamese place around the corner from my hotel. Most expensive place I’ve eaten at this trip, but why not splurge and live a little? I am on vacation after all.Started with some honey garlic pork ribs that were quite delicious…Then I had half a roasted chicken that was possibly cooked (there were scorch marks on the bottom) and obviously served in this bamboo tube. Never seen that before. However it was prepared, it came out tasting most excellent.And when you order half a chicken, you get half a chicken. Including this foot. None for me, thanks!
Still a few nighttime hours to fill. Plan is to see Alex and the boys play darts then say my goodbyes. Probably head over to In Sai Gong for a final cold beer as well. Then it’s off to the airport at 0630 for my 0930 flight to Manila.
I’m glad I finally made it to Saigon. And even more glad it wasn’t as a soldier.
UPDATE: Well, turns out I was also “wrapping it up” back in November, 2015. I also had no idea that Jee Yeun would be wrapping up the marriage just a month later. Still hurts.
Winding it down on my penultimate day in Vietnam. I’m still enjoying walking about and exploring my little part of the city during the day, and of course, the bars at night.
Speaking of walking, I intended to Hash yesterday with the local Saigon kennel. Walked over to the meeting place and arrived early. Then it started pouring down rain. Well, I had been on the fence about participating to begin with. I wasn’t comfortable being bused out of town and getting lost or something, then missing the ride back. Yeah, I’m a wimp. The rain gave me a good excuse to bail and I took it.
Here’s some random pictures from my journey I haven’t posted yet:
Met up with a couple of friends last night at a bar with a happy hour special that couldn’t be beat. All the Tiger draft you could drink between 3-7 p.m. for 145,000 dong ($7). I didn’t start until 4:30 and still got my money’s worth…The bar also featured live music from a Filipino band. Wish they had a sexy Pinay singing though…Yesterday I went to a restaurant for lunch run by a guy from South Africa. I had some beef stew and it was actually awesome…As I mentioned in yesterday’s “foodie” post, I sometimes just snack at the bar instead of having a proper meal. These mussels were a tasty treat…And I ordered a side of kimchi to go with them and it was also quite tasty.Quaffed a few brews in here the other night. Barkeep didn’t speak any English, but we had some fun with Google translate.One of my walks took me to Walking Street, which is where all the backpackers seem to congregate. Lots of hostels and small hotels. And plenty of bars like this one. I do enjoy sitting outside and watching the world pass by when I’m having a cold alcoholic beverage. My favorite bar so far though is the Sai Gone rooftop bar. And this cutie is the sweetest bargirl I’ve met this trip…
I’m going to say right up front that I’m no “foodie”. In fact, I’m not all that adventurous when it comes to exploring local cuisine in general and street food in particular. So, why am I doing a post about the food I’ve eaten thus far during my Vietnam adventure?
Kevin Kim that is. One of my faithful readers and commenters truly is a foodie and has expressed interest in how I like the food here.
Let’s eat!
This morning’s breakfast. My hotel has a free buffet and it’s not bad. They have an egg station where you can eat more traditionally, but where’s the fun in that? That’s a nice clam and corn soup in the bowl. Curried chicken and spiced fish, bacon, watermelon and a tasty roll. I didn’t like the fish, the only “traditional” Vietnamese dish on my plate. It was too hot for my taste.They also have a juice station, but I’ll be damned if I’m going to drink this! Yeah, yeah, I’ve licked my share over the years, but you’ve got to draw the line somewhere…
Last night, my pal Alex invited me out to his favorite restaurant for some leg of lamb.
I guess one of the last vestiges of the French colonial days is the abundance of tasty baked breads.The meal also featured a tasty Greek salad.About the only time I eat lamb is in a kebab, so I’m no expert. But this had a unique flavor which I assume was a Vietnamese twist to spicing. It was really good.No one had a bone to pick about the meal……right Alex?
The best meal I’ve had so far though was the lunch served during the Mekong river tour I took on Friday. It was also probably the most traditional Vietnamese fare I’ve had on this trip.
I have absolutely never seen fish served in this fashion. When I first set down at the table I thought it was just a decoration. It was quite tasty.Some of the other dishes served, including meat on a stick, spring rolls, and those yellow fish-eye looking things.
Now one Vietnamese diet staple is the bahn mi sandwich. I think I saw them featured on an old Anthony Bourdain episode and I’ve wanted to try one since I arrived. Oddly enough, when I asked hotel staff for a good bahn mi restaurant, I was told the best ones were from the street vendors. Go figure. Anyway, after my morning walk yesterday, I brought one home:
Decisions, decisions. I went with the pork… Oh, if you are curious, the dollar buys 23,000 dong at current exchange rates. So these sandwiches are relatively inexpensive. It felt good cashing in those Ben Franklin’s and walking out of the bank with some big dong! *ahem*My bahn mi chef hard at work…
It was quite tasty, although I would have liked more meat. At Subway I always ordered double meat, an option I was unable to request given the language barrier…
Dining out has kind of been hit or miss. Usually drink until hungry, then either eat at the bar or pop into a nearby restaurant. Sometimes I’m not even sure what’s on offer. Stopped into this place the other night with some mates, and it was almost like being back in Korea, but without kimchi.
Yep, grilled meats! And this seafood stew was quite good as well…
And about the only other Vietnamese delicacy I’ve had thus far is a soup called Pho.
Looks like this and is also quite tasty. Although the one I had was chicken and there were more noodles than meat. Especially good after some hard beer drinking.
Did an all day tour yesterday, featuring the Cu Chi tunnels and the Mekong river delta area, both of which are about an hour and a half from Saigon. I do enjoy travel and seeing new places and things, but I don’t like being a tourist. Or to be more precise, I don’t enjoy guided tours much. Yesterday was a prime example of why.
Got picked up at the hotel as scheduled at 7:30, then drove a ways across town in heavy traffic to pick up more tourists. When everyone was on board a bit after 8:00 we headed south. Our tour guide was a 20-something Vietnamese man who said his name was “Laughing”. His English was almost understandable. He seemed very proud of his country and there is nothing wrong with that of course. But my first red flag of the day was when we pulled into a small factory where traditional Vietnam paintings made from eggshells and seashells were manufactured. Laughing told the government built the factory to enable area residents who had suffered birth defects after American use of poison gas during the war. I assumed he meant Agent Orange. Throughout the day, Laughing never missed an opportunity to regurgitate the anti-American propaganda he’d been fed his whole life.
Anyway, the factory was NOT part of the tour package and it was only mildly interesting to see the process used by the workers in creating their art. And surprise, surprise the guide led us into a large showroom full of completed objects available for our purchase. For the first of many times I muttered “this is bullshit”.
In due course we made on way onward to the Cu Chi tunnels that had been instrumental in the North’s attacks on the South throughout the war. It was a pretty impressive engineering fete, no question about it. Laughing’s commentary about the means and methods used to kill the American invaders got old pretty fast though. I found myself biting my tongue to avoid asking what about the South Vietnamese Army troops, who far outnumbered the Yanks, were as fun to kill as well. Anyway, you get the idea. And I acknowledge that the victor gets to write the history of the war in the manner of his choosing. Hell, I was a vocal opponent of the war back then, but something about Laughing’s gleeful stories about how the wise Viet Cong lured the foolish Americans into their gruesome traps was off-putting. I was glad to finally depart for the Mekong portion of the tour.
We stopped for lunch along the way and I’ll have to give credit where it is due, it was a damn fine meal. I’m going to do a “foodie” post tomorrow, so I’ll save that story and photos until then.
The Mekong was disappointing as well, or to be fair, not what I expected. I was envisioning a river cruise, instead we boarded a derelict river boat and went to the other side. Upon arrival, we were served a honey tea and some banana chips. Both were quite good. Then Laughing came around with a beehive and talked about how the honey was used in several “miracle” products to improve health and skin. And wouldn’t you know it? Those products just happened to be available for purchase. I thought now that is real B.S. (bee shit). I did buy some overpriced banana chips which were quite tasty.
Next we walked a bit up the river to a place where we were treated to some traditional Vietnamese music. I’m sorry, the Vietnamese spoken language is even more grating on the ears than Chinese. At least to me. And when sung it sounds like high pitched screeching. The instruments were twangy but not unpleasant however. Tip boxes were conveniently brought around to our tables and of course I contributed. After all, the did stop singing and that was a behavior worth rewarding!
We then walked some more, boarded golf carts for a bit, then walked through some yards (felt like Hashing almost), and then boarded some canoe like things for a ride down a canal and back to the riverside. We were encouraged to tip the boat rowers, and hell, they deserved it managing to move our fat asses downstream.
Once back on the river shore we were given a demonstration of how coconut candy was made. Didn’t much care about that, although the sample was tasty enough. And of course, they had some for sale. No thanks!
Back on the boat at last and we were provided some coconut juice (still in the shell) to enjoy. Then we boarded the van for the two hour ride back to Saigon, where we arrived at 6:00 p.m. It was a long day of touring and it took several hours of beer drinking last night to wash the taste out of my mouth. Here’s the photos:
A tunnel. I went into one but didn’t stay long. It required crawling around on my hands and knees to get through. No thanks!One of the booby traps used to kill or maim American soldiers. No mention of the South Vietnam troops though.Laughing took great pleasure in describing the way these traps caused painful injuries made worse by trying to escape. More traditional killing machines were also on display…By the end of the tour I was ready to kick some Viet Cong ass, not withstanding my opposition to the war…An hour and a half later we stopped at this rest area for lunch. Nicest rest area I’ve ever seen and the food was quite good.We finally arrived at the Mekong river…And boarded this piece of shit for a river ride.That’s Laughing describing how clean and wonderful the Mekong waters are, despite the brown color.If you say so…The bees that shit to make the honey that makes the miracle cures that just happened to be on sale…Then it was time for a pain in the ears. Not saying they weren’t talented, just not to my liking.Down this creek we were destined to travel…Thankfully, we had two locals to do the paddling…That would be me back aboard our river yacht enjoying some coconut juice.And then a two hour ride back to Saigon. I’m told there are 7 million motorbikes in the city and I believe it…I’m not sure what it is about a Vietnamese gal on a bike that trips my triggers. Oh wait, maybe she’s right!Finished the night with beers and music from a Filipino band. Much easier on my old man ears, that’s for sure.
Alright, dinner plans tonight and hopefully something worthwhile to add to my foodie post tomorrow. Stay tuned!
So far, so good. Still feeling my way around Saigon/HCMC, but I rather like it. In fact, Vietnam is now ahead of Cambodia as a “Plan B” option should life in the Philippines not work out. Saigon (I prefer that name and will use it henceforth) is comparatively clean (isn’t everywhere compared to the PI?), modern, and bustling. I have never in my life seen so many damn motor scooters! I’m pressed for time this afternoon, so let’s let the photos do the talking.
DAY 1: Nice airport, only hold up was the visa process took about 30 minutes, but sailed through immigration/customs. Hotel transportation was there waiting and whisked us to the Lotus Central hotel.
It is a clean and functional 8 story hotel and I’m very comfortable here so far. Around 50 bucks a night.Room is smallish, bed is comfortable, wifi works well.Seeing this put a smile on my face. I do miss my bidet days…Up on the roof is this lovely swimming pool which I’ve not used and probably won’t. In fact, I haven’t seen anyone else using it either…The rooftop also affords beautiful views of the city like this one. This is similar to the view from my room, only 2 floors down. Another shot of the Saigon skyline…My first meal in Vietnam was this chicken dish for lunch. Big bag of fries came with it. It was in this back alley cafe near my hotel where I enjoyed street side dining… And my first Vietnamese beer.
I did a quick walk around the neighborhood, then had to get ready for a meetup with some old friends from my Seoul days who live here now. I had an address and a Grab driver dropped me off at said address. But there was no bar to be seen there. So I walked over to the bar district and started asking other bar patrons where Shooters bar might be. Most didn’t know or gave me wrong directions. Finally, an American in a bar was able to give me specific detailed guidance on reaching my destination. Which took me right back to where the Grab car had left me. What the hell? About that time my friend Alex arrived.
He apologized for the confusion and pointed up to the 3rd floor. I still didn’t see it as the bar has absolutely no signage. We walked into what looked like an office lobby and took an elevator upstairs.
It’s a tiny place, even smaller than Alley Cats, my local darts venue in the PI. Very narrow, but has 4 dart boards with computerized scoring. Actually very nicely done.
I got drafted to play with Alex’s team in a league match against the top rated team in Saigon. We got our asses kicked, but I did manage to win a best of 5 singles match 3-1. So, I can add Vietnam to the countries in which I’ve played competitive darts (USA, Korea, Japan, Thailand, Cambodia, Philippines).
And it was of course really great catching up with my old mates John (on the left) and Alex.After darts I walked back to the hotel. A little drunk but not hungry enough to eat here (yet).Settled for nice bowl of chicken pho at a place near the hotel. Sorry the pic is so shitty. Maybe I was drunker than I remember.
Day 2: Took a good long walk in the city to see what I could see. Saw the Ho Chi Minh museum with some captured American tanks and planes out front and thought about having a looksee, but changed my mind thinking I’d find the actual war museum I’d heard about. I didn’t though.
There was this cool tree though…
I guess snapping that photo tagged me as a tourist because the vendors descended upon me. One guy actually started “repairing” my shoes with glue. I’m like WTF, no thanks! But he kept right on. Then he untied my shoe and that was enough, I just walked away.
A Saigon street. Those cycle and hammer banners are everywhere…A monument to some past hero I suppose. Crossing streets here is insane for a pedestrian. I read somewhere that you are suppose to just keep your stride and pace as you cross and the motorbikes and cares will avoid you. I tried that and I guess it worked, or at least I wasn’t hit. Later I crossed with some locals and I noticed that they did in fact slow down to let cars and bikes go past. Geez, it’s a mystery how anyone lives to tell the tale of crossing some of these busy highways. Heh, I guess I just did though, didn’t I?Made it to the banks of the Saigon river. I’m still considering taking one of these “water buses” while I’m here, but haven’t yet. Tomorrow I’m doing an all day tour to the Mekong river delta…Needed some liquid refreshment and spied this rooftop bar name Sai Gone. Cold beer and hot waitresses! I was the only customer for awhile…Enjoyed “Cheap Charlies” like views, although the street action featured many young Vietnamese women instead of the old men of Barretto….
Met an American couple from California enjoying their honeymoon and shared some beers with them. I’m now Facebook friends with the wife! It started raining hard about the time I was planning to leave, so what could I do? Stay for more beer of course! Hey, I’m on vacation!
It was back to Sai Gon that night where I expected to meet some Hashers. I didn’t see any. Later as one guy was leaving he saw my Hash attire and said I could join them for a run on Sunday. Meet up at the Caravelle hotel. Let’s see if I can find it.
Very drunk end to the day, but once again I successfully found my way back home to the hotel. Day 3 report will have to wait as I have plans for more explorations in the bar district tonight and need to prepare.
Arrived safely and without incident. Got checked into my hotel room, which is quite nice for the price. Now I’m going to hit the mean streets of Saigon and do some exploring.
First impressions: It’s a comparatively clean city. I haven’t seen anything like the poverty that is rampant back home in the Philippines. Traffic is crazy but somehow it works, like a mad dance or something. Oh, and the women are quite gorgeous. They appear sweet and innocent, at least from a distance. Of course, I’ll need to investigate further.
I heard about the great food choices here in Vietnam. And they were right! Right outside baggage claim I find this:
Kevin Kim asked for lots of food pictures…here’s the first!
Just kidding, I’m holding out for some real food. Okay, time to get out there and have a look see.
Busy as a bee getting it all together for my next adventure. Completed my paperwork for the visa on arrival processing, did my Philippines Air check-in and printed out my boarding pass, and of course packed my suitcase.
I have a 6:55 a.m. flight to catch in Manila and my driver suggests we leave Barretto at 0100. Between now and then I’ve got a Hash to participate in and then hopefully a few hours sleep before hitting the road.
Forty-six years ago the last place I wanted to be on Earth is where I now happily choose to visit and explore. I guess the difference is that I have the choice. Back in 1973 you might say I won the lottery–a lottery to determine who would be called to serve (drafted) in Uncle Sam’s military endeavors. And also in 1973 the draft was ended (one month before I turned 18). At the time you might say it felt like I had dodged a bullet. I actually came to regret not volunteering for military service, but that’s another story for another day.
And now at long last Vietnam is indeed my immediate destiny. I’m looking forward to seeing what I missed, without all the gunfire, rockets, and bombing of course. As close as I’ll get to that violence is a planned excursion to the war museum.
And of course I’ll be sharing all the excitement from the trip right here on LTG. Stay tuned!
We met as soul mates On Parris Island We left as inmates From an asylum And we were sharp As sharp as knives And we were so gung ho To lay down our lives
We came in spastic Like tameless horses We left in plastic As numbered corpses And we learned fast To travel light Our arms were heavy But our bellies were tight
We had no home front We had no soft soap They sent us Playboy They gave us Bob Hope We dug in deep And shot on sight And prayed to Jesus Christ With all of our might
We had no cameras To shoot the landscape We passed the hash pipe And played our Doors tapes And it was dark So dark at night And we held on to each other Like brother to brother We promised our mothers we’d write
And we would all go down together We said we’d all go down together Yes we would all go down together
Remember Charlie Remember Baker They left their childhood On every acre And who was wrong? And who was right? It didn’t matter in the thick of the fight
We held the day In the palm Of our hand They ruled the night And the night Seemed to last as long as six weeks On Parris Island
We held the coastline They held the highlands And they were sharp As sharp as knives They heard the hum of our motors They counted the rotors And waited for us to arrive
And we would all go down together We said we’d all go down together Yes we would all go down together
