You know, I really think Itaewon gets a bad rap, perhaps an unfair legacy of its more sordid past. I’ve been here 5 years now and even it that short period of time I’ve witnessed some pretty signifcant changes for the better.

Yeah, they did the new sidewalks and gave vendors those standardized carts. But beyond the purely cosmetic changes has been a pretty dynamic shift in, for lack of a better word, attitude. Gone are a lot of the more sleazy bars catering to horny GIs and English teachers. These have been replaced by some really nice restaurants, many with street side dining. I think a good example of this transformation is the alley behind Hamilton Hotel.

Here’s the biggest change I’ve noted: Koreans are coming out to Itaewon in numbers that would have been unimaginable a few short years ago. The upscale restuarants make Itaewon a dining destination for more and more “natives”. Hell, I expect they enjoy the food almost as much as watching us waeguks passing by on the street.

Several great western-style bars and pubs have opened recently (check out Sam Ryan’s above 3 Alley Pub next time you are in town). What is truly amazing is that Korean-folk are venturing into these bars on a more and more frequent basis. I think it is pretty cool to see this intermingling (kinda like I’m actually living in foreign country!).

Anyway, Hooker Hill, Gay Hill, the tranny and juicy bars are all still there, but that scene is not so much “in your face” these days. I think they add flavor to a rather eccletic mix and would hate to see that eliminated.

Funny thing, last week I was quaffing a brew at Goldfish (a friendly Filipino owned streetside bar) and some tourists asked about how to find Hooker Hill (it’s actually right across the street from Goldfish). I had to laugh, because even at its sleaziest, Itaewon is apparently a tourist destination.

Cheers!