Winding it down on my penultimate day in Vietnam. I’m still enjoying walking about and exploring my little part of the city during the day, and of course, the bars at night.
Speaking of walking, I intended to Hash yesterday with the local Saigon kennel. Walked over to the meeting place and arrived early. Then it started pouring down rain. Well, I had been on the fence about participating to begin with. I wasn’t comfortable being bused out of town and getting lost or something, then missing the ride back. Yeah, I’m a wimp. The rain gave me a good excuse to bail and I took it.
Here’s some random pictures from my journey I haven’t posted yet:
I’m going to say right up front that I’m no “foodie”. In fact, I’m not all that adventurous when it comes to exploring local cuisine in general and street food in particular. So, why am I doing a post about the food I’ve eaten thus far during my Vietnam adventure?
Let’s eat!
Last night, my pal Alex invited me out to his favorite restaurant for some leg of lamb.
The best meal I’ve had so far though was the lunch served during the Mekong river tour I took on Friday. It was also probably the most traditional Vietnamese fare I’ve had on this trip.
Now one Vietnamese diet staple is the bahn mi sandwich. I think I saw them featured on an old Anthony Bourdain episode and I’ve wanted to try one since I arrived. Oddly enough, when I asked hotel staff for a good bahn mi restaurant, I was told the best ones were from the street vendors. Go figure. Anyway, after my morning walk yesterday, I brought one home:
Dining out has kind of been hit or miss. Usually drink until hungry, then either eat at the bar or pop into a nearby restaurant. Sometimes I’m not even sure what’s on offer. Stopped into this place the other night with some mates, and it was almost like being back in Korea, but without kimchi.
And about the only other Vietnamese delicacy I’ve had thus far is a soup called Pho.
Did an all day tour yesterday, featuring the Cu Chi tunnels and the Mekong river delta area, both of which are about an hour and a half from Saigon. I do enjoy travel and seeing new places and things, but I don’t like being a tourist. Or to be more precise, I don’t enjoy guided tours much. Yesterday was a prime example of why.
Got picked up at the hotel as scheduled at 7:30, then drove a ways across town in heavy traffic to pick up more tourists. When everyone was on board a bit after 8:00 we headed south. Our tour guide was a 20-something Vietnamese man who said his name was “Laughing”. His English was almost understandable. He seemed very proud of his country and there is nothing wrong with that of course. But my first red flag of the day was when we pulled into a small factory where traditional Vietnam paintings made from eggshells and seashells were manufactured. Laughing told the government built the factory to enable area residents who had suffered birth defects after American use of poison gas during the war. I assumed he meant Agent Orange. Throughout the day, Laughing never missed an opportunity to regurgitate the anti-American propaganda he’d been fed his whole life.
Anyway, the factory was NOT part of the tour package and it was only mildly interesting to see the process used by the workers in creating their art. And surprise, surprise the guide led us into a large showroom full of completed objects available for our purchase. For the first of many times I muttered “this is bullshit”.
In due course we made on way onward to the Cu Chi tunnels that had been instrumental in the North’s attacks on the South throughout the war. It was a pretty impressive engineering fete, no question about it. Laughing’s commentary about the means and methods used to kill the American invaders got old pretty fast though. I found myself biting my tongue to avoid asking what about the South Vietnamese Army troops, who far outnumbered the Yanks, were as fun to kill as well. Anyway, you get the idea. And I acknowledge that the victor gets to write the history of the war in the manner of his choosing. Hell, I was a vocal opponent of the war back then, but something about Laughing’s gleeful stories about how the wise Viet Cong lured the foolish Americans into their gruesome traps was off-putting. I was glad to finally depart for the Mekong portion of the tour.
We stopped for lunch along the way and I’ll have to give credit where it is due, it was a damn fine meal. I’m going to do a “foodie” post tomorrow, so I’ll save that story and photos until then.
The Mekong was disappointing as well, or to be fair, not what I expected. I was envisioning a river cruise, instead we boarded a derelict river boat and went to the other side. Upon arrival, we were served a honey tea and some banana chips. Both were quite good. Then Laughing came around with a beehive and talked about how the honey was used in several “miracle” products to improve health and skin. And wouldn’t you know it? Those products just happened to be available for purchase. I thought now that is real B.S. (bee shit). I did buy some overpriced banana chips which were quite tasty.
Next we walked a bit up the river to a place where we were treated to some traditional Vietnamese music. I’m sorry, the Vietnamese spoken language is even more grating on the ears than Chinese. At least to me. And when sung it sounds like high pitched screeching. The instruments were twangy but not unpleasant however. Tip boxes were conveniently brought around to our tables and of course I contributed. After all, the did stop singing and that was a behavior worth rewarding!
We then walked some more, boarded golf carts for a bit, then walked through some yards (felt like Hashing almost), and then boarded some canoe like things for a ride down a canal and back to the riverside. We were encouraged to tip the boat rowers, and hell, they deserved it managing to move our fat asses downstream.
Once back on the river shore we were given a demonstration of how coconut candy was made. Didn’t much care about that, although the sample was tasty enough. And of course, they had some for sale. No thanks!
Back on the boat at last and we were provided some coconut juice (still in the shell) to enjoy. Then we boarded the van for the two hour ride back to Saigon, where we arrived at 6:00 p.m. It was a long day of touring and it took several hours of beer drinking last night to wash the taste out of my mouth. Here’s the photos:
Alright, dinner plans tonight and hopefully something worthwhile to add to my foodie post tomorrow. Stay tuned!
So far, so good. Still feeling my way around Saigon/HCMC, but I rather like it. In fact, Vietnam is now ahead of Cambodia as a “Plan B” option should life in the Philippines not work out. Saigon (I prefer that name and will use it henceforth) is comparatively clean (isn’t everywhere compared to the PI?), modern, and bustling. I have never in my life seen so many damn motor scooters! I’m pressed for time this afternoon, so let’s let the photos do the talking.
DAY 1: Nice airport, only hold up was the visa process took about 30 minutes, but sailed through immigration/customs. Hotel transportation was there waiting and whisked us to the Lotus Central hotel.
I did a quick walk around the neighborhood, then had to get ready for a meetup with some old friends from my Seoul days who live here now. I had an address and a Grab driver dropped me off at said address. But there was no bar to be seen there. So I walked over to the bar district and started asking other bar patrons where Shooters bar might be. Most didn’t know or gave me wrong directions. Finally, an American in a bar was able to give me specific detailed guidance on reaching my destination. Which took me right back to where the Grab car had left me. What the hell? About that time my friend Alex arrived.
He apologized for the confusion and pointed up to the 3rd floor. I still didn’t see it as the bar has absolutely no signage. We walked into what looked like an office lobby and took an elevator upstairs.
I got drafted to play with Alex’s team in a league match against the top rated team in Saigon. We got our asses kicked, but I did manage to win a best of 5 singles match 3-1. So, I can add Vietnam to the countries in which I’ve played competitive darts (USA, Korea, Japan, Thailand, Cambodia, Philippines).
Day 2: Took a good long walk in the city to see what I could see. Saw the Ho Chi Minh museum with some captured American tanks and planes out front and thought about having a looksee, but changed my mind thinking I’d find the actual war museum I’d heard about. I didn’t though.
I guess snapping that photo tagged me as a tourist because the vendors descended upon me. One guy actually started “repairing” my shoes with glue. I’m like WTF, no thanks! But he kept right on. Then he untied my shoe and that was enough, I just walked away.
Met an American couple from California enjoying their honeymoon and shared some beers with them. I’m now Facebook friends with the wife! It started raining hard about the time I was planning to leave, so what could I do? Stay for more beer of course! Hey, I’m on vacation!
It was back to Sai Gon that night where I expected to meet some Hashers. I didn’t see any. Later as one guy was leaving he saw my Hash attire and said I could join them for a run on Sunday. Meet up at the Caravelle hotel. Let’s see if I can find it.
Very drunk end to the day, but once again I successfully found my way back home to the hotel. Day 3 report will have to wait as I have plans for more explorations in the bar district tonight and need to prepare.
Arrived safely and without incident. Got checked into my hotel room, which is quite nice for the price. Now I’m going to hit the mean streets of Saigon and do some exploring.
First impressions: It’s a comparatively clean city. I haven’t seen anything like the poverty that is rampant back home in the Philippines. Traffic is crazy but somehow it works, like a mad dance or something. Oh, and the women are quite gorgeous. They appear sweet and innocent, at least from a distance. Of course, I’ll need to investigate further.
I heard about the great food choices here in Vietnam. And they were right! Right outside baggage claim I find this:
Just kidding, I’m holding out for some real food. Okay, time to get out there and have a look see.
Busy as a bee getting it all together for my next adventure. Completed my paperwork for the visa on arrival processing, did my Philippines Air check-in and printed out my boarding pass, and of course packed my suitcase.
I have a 6:55 a.m. flight to catch in Manila and my driver suggests we leave Barretto at 0100. Between now and then I’ve got a Hash to participate in and then hopefully a few hours sleep before hitting the road.
Forty-six years ago the last place I wanted to be on Earth is where I now happily choose to visit and explore. I guess the difference is that I have the choice. Back in 1973 you might say I won the lottery–a lottery to determine who would be called to serve (drafted) in Uncle Sam’s military endeavors. And also in 1973 the draft was ended (one month before I turned 18). At the time you might say it felt like I had dodged a bullet. I actually came to regret not volunteering for military service, but that’s another story for another day.
And now at long last Vietnam is indeed my immediate destiny. I’m looking forward to seeing what I missed, without all the gunfire, rockets, and bombing of course. As close as I’ll get to that violence is a planned excursion to the war museum.
And of course I’ll be sharing all the excitement from the trip right here on LTG. Stay tuned!
We met as soul mates On Parris Island We left as inmates From an asylum And we were sharp As sharp as knives And we were so gung ho To lay down our lives
We came in spastic Like tameless horses We left in plastic As numbered corpses And we learned fast To travel light Our arms were heavy But our bellies were tight
We had no home front We had no soft soap They sent us Playboy They gave us Bob Hope We dug in deep And shot on sight And prayed to Jesus Christ With all of our might
We had no cameras To shoot the landscape We passed the hash pipe And played our Doors tapes And it was dark So dark at night And we held on to each other Like brother to brother We promised our mothers we’d write
And we would all go down together We said we’d all go down together Yes we would all go down together
Remember Charlie Remember Baker They left their childhood On every acre And who was wrong? And who was right? It didn’t matter in the thick of the fight
We held the day In the palm Of our hand They ruled the night And the night Seemed to last as long as six weeks On Parris Island
We held the coastline They held the highlands And they were sharp As sharp as knives They heard the hum of our motors They counted the rotors And waited for us to arrive
And we would all go down together We said we’d all go down together Yes we would all go down together
And just like that it was over. The vacation I mean. Now I’m in the purgatory that is Incheon airport killing the long hours before my flight at 9:55 p.m.
But I’m killing those hours in style. For the first time ever I’ve booked myself a room at a transit hotel.
Had a Taco Bell lunch and I reckon I’ll kill some time with a nice nap before my 8:30 check-out time.
My last night in Seoul was reminiscent of many nights I’ve enjoyed over the years. As is my custom I started out at Shenanigans where I was joined by my nephew Justin and my friend Becky. We sat at the window and enjoyed the people watching on the street below while quaffing our brews. Later on Justin and I wandered over to Scrooge Pub so I could say a final goodbye to the owner there, a sexy Korean lass.
Had a little incident there though. Some guy (sounded Aussie) a couple of chairs down the bar from me told me not to smoke in the bar. I gave my standard response of “I’m not smoking, I’m vaping”. He said “I don’t care, it smells like shit, take it outside”. So, I’d been drinking but I managed to maintain my self control and simply responded “You don’t tell me what to do, if the owner wants me to go outside she can tell me”. He got the owner’s attention and she told him “e-cigarette is okay here”. So that was that. But I really hate assholes like that. If he had been polite about it bothering him I likely would have moved to the other side of the bar. But fuck him.
After Scrooge, we went to another bar (JJ’s) where I said some more goodbyes. And then I ended the night at the oldest bar in Itaewon, the Grand Ole Opry. The bar has been featured here at LTG several times over the years, including the story about my first visit in April 2005. It was funny re-reading that post just now, especially the comments from ex-wife #3 and one from my now deceased father.
In another example of the bar’s timelessness, last night’s waitress was the same woman who was working there when I first visited all those years ago. Back then there were lots of folks (including Koreans) who would be out on the dance floor doing some good ol’ country dancing. I was drunk and had the urge to get my two steppin’ on so I asked the waitress if she’d dance with me in exchange for a drink. She responded ok, but just one dance. And so we did and it was fun (at least for me). Afterwards I mentioned all the good times I had over the years and she surprised me with “yeah, but you were always bringing other girls to dance with”. Well, damn.
Anyway, stumbled back to the hotel shortly thereafter, slept late (for me), did a McDonald’s breakfast, read Kevin’s post about our lunch, then packed up and caught the Airport Limo out to Incheon. And here I sit reminiscing over the life I’m finally putting behind me.
It’s been quite a ride, wouldn’t have missed it for the world.
The life ahead of me includes my two loving dogs. And I’ll be home in time to make tomorrow’s Hash. I’m ready.
Our paths may never cross again Maybe my heart will never mend But I’m glad for all the good times Cause you’ve brought me so much sunshine And love was the best it’s ever been
I wouldn’t have missed it for the world Wouldn’t have missed loving you girl You’ve made my whole life worth while, with your smile I wouldn’t trade one memory Cause you mean too much to me Even though I lost you girl I wouldn’t have missed it for the world
They say that all good things must end Loves comes and goes just like the wind You’ve got your dreams to follow But if I had the chance tomorrow You know I’d do it all again
I wouldn’t have missed it for the world Wouldn’t have missed loving you girl You’ve made my whole life worth while, with your smile I wouldn’t trade one memory Cause you mean too much to me Even though I lost you girl I wouldn’t have missed it for the world
Oh I wouldn’t trade one memory Cause you mean too much to me Even though I lost you girl I wouldn’t have missed it for the world
I wouldn’t have missed it for the world Wouldn’t have missed loving you girl You’ve made my whole life worth while, with your smile I wouldn’t trade one memory Cause you mean too much to me Even though I lost you girl I wouldn’t have missed it for the world
Today I left Anjeong-ri, most likely for the final time. I think I’ve made my peace with the past now and it is time to move on to whatever the future may hold.
As last days go, yesterday was a good one. Or good enough at least. A former employee of mine took off work early to spend the afternoon with me. I will admit upfront that I’ve been crushing on this woman for a long time, but as a subordinate she was strictly off limits. That’s not the case now so I was excited to see what she had in mind. I know the fantasies I concocted ran the gamut from an innocent lunch to a pornographic sexual encounter. The reality turned out to be fully clothed yet oddly satisfying.
We went to a park outside Pyeongtaek city. A very nice park actually. One I’d never heard of or seen.
So we walked and we talked, we shared some laughs. And little by little we began to open up to each other about our feelings.
We sat on a bench, held hands, and spoke about what was in our hearts. I told her this moment was what I had been missing the most–some genuine shared intimacy. It felt so good and right and natural. And then she said those words. “I love you…like a brother.” And you know, I’m okay with that. We do not share the same destiny but I’m glad she was a part of my life here. She will always have a special place in my heart and I will not forget how I felt as sat beside her in the park. A good reminder of what I hope to find for my own someday.
After the park we shared dinner with a couple other co-workers, hugged, and said our goodbyes.
I went back to my hotel and shortly thereafter received a message from Mi Young (the woman who had stood me up the night before) asking where I was. Seems she thought we had agreed to reschedule our date. Ah well, why not? So we met at a Mexican place she likes. I told I had just eaten, but we shared some appetizers. Mi Young has been involved in an animal rescue shelter here for the past few years. Pretty much to the exclusion of everything else, including me. I did provide some assistance in spreading the word on social media which resulted in quite a few volunteers joining the effort and providing her some much needed assistance. My tentative efforts to woo her romantically were rebuffed however. I think last night was her effort to express her regrets. Anyway, I will always admire her and hope she will find some balance in her life. She’s a good woman.
And after that I did the rounds and said my goodbyes to my barfriends at Crystal, Ariang, Hot Top, and Horse and Cow. Then I stumbled on home.
Up early to catch the train to Seoul. Met up with the nephew, Won Jun and Beckie at JJ’s bar where they were watching basketball. Then me and Justin were joined by the esteemed Kevin Kim for a Brazilian steak house lunch at Tabom Brazil.
After lunch we said our goodbyes and I did a little pasalubong shopping. In the Philippines it is a tradition that you bring some gifts for your friends back home after traveling. Well, they are cheap ass souvenir trinkets, but I reckon they’ll do.
And now I’m just about done. One more Saturday night in Itaewon. Time to get started.
Those times I waited for you seem so long ago I wanted you far too much to ever let you go You know I never got by, “I feel it too” And I guess I never could stand to lose It’s such a pity to say Goodbye to you Goodbye to you
It’s a damn good thing that I’m not in Alabama because I’ve decided to abort the last few days of my vacation. I’ll be leaving Sunday as opposed to Thursday now.
I’ve alluded to how things just aren’t working out for me on this trip in earlier posts. I mean, it’s been great seeing some old friends and all but I’m also having to deal with the old baggage I thought I’d left behind me. Instead it seems I’ve just ripped the scab off a still festering wound. Yeah, I know. I’m a fucking pussy. I’ve been berating myself during my long ass walks to no avail. I’m just not happy and really don’t want to prolong the suffering.
Anyway, I’m meeting some friends tonight for dinner. Will take my former team members out for lunch tomorrow and maybe hook up with a few others before I depart Anjeong-ri on Saturday morning. Otherwise there is nothing for me here and it is good to be reminded why I was in such a hurry to get out of Dodge. The better question is why the hell did I come back. No answer for that!
Honestly though, I never gave it a real chance for the year I lived here. I always had one foot in the future (the Philippines) and one foot in the past (my broken life in Seoul). I regret not just embracing the experience and trying to enjoy each day for what it was. But what these past few days, both here and in Seoul, have brought home loud and clear–I no longer have a life in Korea. Time has moved on and it is past time that I did so as well.
In the meantime I continue to retrace old steps. Today I did a four hour walk circumnavigating the perimeter of Camp Humphreys.
I’m used to breaking up my walks into morning/afternoon sessions. Doing four hours in one stretch kicked my ass pretty good.
Yesterday I took a smooth 50 minute ride on the Korail ITX down to Pyeongtaek Station, then cabbed to my hotel in Anjeong-ri.
I lived here for exactly one year (left on the day my lease expired) and have been gone for just over one year. Still know a few folks here and hope I’ll be able to meet up with some of them between now and Thursday.
I’ve really been amazed at how much things have changed in the little burg of Anjeong-ri in only a year. Tons of new construction–high rise apartments, restaurants, and of course bars.
Speaking of bars I visited a few of my old haunts last night. I was a little surprised and touched that the staff in most of them remembered me and gave me a warm welcome back. Which is good because I didn’t see anyone else I knew out and about. I was astounded at being charged W8,000 (more than $7.00) for a San Miguel Light. I pay around a buck fifty for that same beer back home. At those prices I’m not sure I could afford to retire here! Not that I’d want to.
And speaking of IDK (I asked what that stood for but everyone says “I don’t know” so I still have no idea) Facebook reminded me this morning it was exactly two years ago that I won my first dart tournament down here.
Anyway, I got up this morning and had breakfast at a restaurant called “Me and You”. It’s where I had my first breakfast when I moved here. New location, but the food was the same (average). I was the only customer and the ajumma was delighted to have me, so that was nice.
After breakfast I caught a cab to Good Morning hospital in Pyeongtaek city to see about scheduling my physical examination. I had it done there last year and figured they’d have all that history to compare with this year’s result. Except they told me I wouldn’t get the results/consult with the doctor for two weeks! Well, that ain’t gonna work. So I won’t be getting an exam after all. Which was one of the primary reasons for making this trip. What a fiasco. And yes, I should have done my due diligence prior to traveling.
I walked home from the hospital which took close to two hours. This afternoon I did some of my park loops from the good ol’ days (which really weren’t all that good). I’m planning the long ass river walk that circumnavigates the perimeter of the Army base (outside the fence of course) in the morning.
Tonight? Well, I reckon I’ll visit the bars I missed last night. One guy wants to get together for darts so we’ll see about that as well.
And oh yeah, here’s a serious religious question I stumbled upon while perusing the internets today: Did Jesus shit? I report, you decide.
A drunken Saturday night in Itaewon. Felt like old times. But prior to the alcohol fueled activities commencing I had some walking to do. The goal: My old nemesis Namsan and the Seoul Tower.
Yeah, I wimped out and didn’t actually climb to the top. Instead I walked around the mountain rather than over it. I got a lot more distance in that way without all the exertion required to reach the peak. Anyway, I deem the effort “good enough”.
Back to the hotel for a nap and a shower then made my way out to Shenanigans. Nephew Justin came out to join me and later on some friends from way back in the day dropped by.
And of course by the end of the night I was pretty much a worthless drunk.
Blog buddy Kevin Kim was originally intending to join me for the Namsan hike but after ingesting some spoiled soup his gurgling stomach convinced him to not risk having a shitty experience on trail. Later in the afternoon he was feeling better and he did take a walk, only to encounter some rude dog owners. So when I saw this meme I immediately though of him:
I took the train down to Pyeongtaek today and it feels like I’ll be strolling with the demons from memory lane here as well. I know, I know. I just need to man up and get over myself. Easier said than done though. For me at least.
I woke up hungry so ventured out for some grub. Found myself in line at McDonalds and then changed my mind about eating there . Now what? Well, there is a Pancake House across the street but I wasn’t feeling that either. So I figured I’d just go back to the hotel’s coffee shop and grab a pastry. Stopped at the local GS25 convenience store and picked up some diet Coke and water. Then it turns out the coffee shop only sells coffee, which is crazy.
Dropped my drinks in the room and headed out for a river hike figuring I’d find something to eat along the way. I crossed the Banpo bridge and headed out towards Yeouido. They have some floating buildings on the river and I walked through seeing if I can find any food. A restaurant named Dolce was open but I wasn’t feeling like doing a formal sit down meal so I kept on walking.
I had thought about walking all the way to Yeouido but I was already over an hour into my walk so took the preceding bridge.
Walked back into Itaewon and it was 12:30 and so I decided to end my fasting. And I was craving some BBQ, Linus style.
I’m not sure what was up with my Fitness app, but the resulting map of my walk looked like this:
Back to the hotel for an after lunch nap. Later I showered up and headed out to Shenanigans for some beers and a meetup with old friends. We got hungry after a bit and decided to visit my favorite Samgyeopsal place.
Back in my early days in Itaewon Dolce Vita was my home bar. Then a few years ago they changed the concept and became a “music” bar. I think Jim and YJ saw the writing on the wall and went for attracting a younger Korean crowd. They’ve pretty much succeeded at that but I no longer fit the demographic and Shenanigans became my new bar home.
Lots of drinking with some people I’ve met over the years of my Korea life. I think I had fun but I was definitely overdoing it. In fact, I got floored.
Anyway, it was a good day overall. And now it’s time to get started on a new one.
Flew business class on Asiana which as usual was comfortable and well-serviced. Enjoyed a bowl of rice porridge and slept most of the trip. We arrived at Incheon right on schedule at 0700.
Since I was upfront, I was first off the plane and first in line at immigration. Sailed through there and headed down to baggage claim. I knew I’d have a wait, so I found a seat in the lavatory and enjoyed my first Korean bidet experience in over a year. After taking care of business I came out just as my bag was arriving on the carousel. Grabbed it and made my way to the airport railroad (AREX).
The express train didn’t leave until 8:10 arriving at Seoul Station forty minutes later. The “all-stops” train left at 7:40 and got me there sooner so I didn’t wait. Maybe should have as the train got crowded and a little uncomfortable. But I enjoyed the scenery along the way anyway. After being gone a little more than a year I was especially impressed with the infrastructure and just the way things “work” here. Pretty much the opposite of how things are in the Philippines.
Once I arrived at Seoul Station I made my way outside to the taxi stand and then decided to just walk to my hotel in Itaewon. It wasn’t even 9:00 a.m. yet and I doubted I’d be able to check-in so early. Walking wasn’t bad except for the dragging my wheeled suitcase behind me like a homeless person. Arm got tired after awhile but I switched out and carried on. The weather here is pleasantly cool and feels downright chilly compared to the hot sticky mess I had just left behind back home.
As I suspected the folks at the Crown hotel informed me that check-in wasn’t until 3:00 p.m. I asked (pleaded really) if I couldn’t get in earlier. The guy told me I could get the room at 1:00 and he wouldn’t charge me extra. I thanked him and checked my bags. Then I headed out to explore the mean streets of Itaewon.
I’m not sure if it’s the town that’s changed or if it is just me but it looked and felt different somehow. Some of the old familiar places were gone and others had moved to new locations. Lots of new shops and business too. It’s definitely an area in transition. Not real surprising given that almost all of the American military forces have moved south now. Still, plenty of foreigners out and about of course, just a different crowd.
And it wasn’t long before I started wrestling with the demons from the past again. I was a little surprised by how powerful those old memories were and how sad they made me. It was a good reminder that my life here has ended and I really am better off in the Philippines. How bad was I haunted? Almost to the point of contacting Asiana to see if I could change to an earlier departure date. Almost.
Anyway, I walked and walked. My former housekeeper Josie messaged me that she was at McDonlds so I met her there and we had a nice chat. Then I moved back out to the street and walked some more. Around 11:00 I was feeling hungry so I started looking for somewhere to eat. Linus’ BBQ wasn’t open yet and Manimals was closed too (permanently perhaps? The sign was somewhat ambiguous). Anyway, I decided to go for Mexican at On the Border.
After lunch I was able to check into my room and took a short nap. Then I did a nice walk along the Han riverside that looked like this:
Back to the room for a shower then I headed out for some nighttime activities at my favorite hangout–Shenanigans.
It was sweet when my favorite flower ajumma came in and saw me. She was so surprised and kind–gave me a big hug and told me how happy she was to see me again. I of course bought a bouquet flowers–just like old times.
I pay about $1.50 a beer in the PI. Here there were over $6.00. Ah well, I’m on vacation, but geez. Justin and I popped into Scrooge Pub which was pretty empty. The owner (a nice Korean woman I’m rather fond of) was not happy with her decision to get into the bar business, especially now that almost all her customer base is in Pyeongtaek. She wants to sell, but good luck finding a buyer. I told her we could open a bar together in Barretto but she didn’t seem interested in that idea at all. Ah well.
I was drunk and it was time to go home. A quick stop for a sundae at Dairy Queen and Justin and I said our goodnights. And so ended my first day back home in the Land of the Morning Calm.
It was a long ass day. Started out with intermittent power outages in my hotel. When the lights went out (we’d leave the light on in the bathroom) it made a popping sound. The first time was around 0300. The noise woke me up and I laid there worrying how the hell I was going to pack the rest of my shit in a pitch black room. About 10 minutes later the lights “popped” back on. Relieved I went back to sleep, only to hear the lights pop off again a few minutes later. This cycle continued until my 0500 alarm sounded.
Rushed around and managed to get most of my gear ready to travel before the next blackout. Used the phone light for awhile and then once again power was restored. Got a call at 0545 that my driver had arrived, so it was off to Manila. Arrived without incident at the airport by 0930 for my 1230 flight.
The airport in Manila, much like the city, sucks. As I waited to board by flight it occurred to me that I was most likely completing my last vacation in the Philippines.
Goodbye to you Manila!
The flight departed one hour late (of course!) and landed me at Incheon just before 1800. Almost all the passengers on the fully loaded Asiana 747 were transferring to other flights so I was able to sail through immigration. And lo and behold, my bag was one of the first to hit the carousel. Hoofed over to the AREX express train and made it ten minutes before it departed for Seoul station.
Which gave me time to figure out how to cut the zip tie the agent in Manila had helpfully used to lock my bag. The bag that contained my jacket and gloves for the sub-freezing weather in Korea. Brilliantly, I remembered I had some nail clippers in the unlocked front pocket of my suitcase. Woot! They did the trick. Donned my sweatshirt and jacket and I was once again dressed appropriately for my environment.
I like the AREX. But I always get lost trying to get up five floors of escalators to the main floor exits at Seoul station. Last night was no exception. And then my AREX ticket wouldn’t work on the exit turnstiles, so I had to hit the help button (on two different occasions) to be let out. Once I exited the station I grabbed a cab and got to re-experience the joy of miscommunication with a non-English speaking Seoul cabbie (and yes, it is MY fault for having not learned even basic Korean). I did say “Noksapyeong yak” which he repeated, but then started entering the location in his phone like he didn’t know where it was. I’m all like “you know, near Itaewon” which didn’t seem to register. Eventually he figured it out and got me there. The fair was W4600 so I gave him W12,000 and asked for 5000 back. Which created more confusion and miscommunication. When he figured out I was just wanting to give him a decent tip, he seemed pleased.
I wanted Noksapyeong because it was the closet location I could think of to where I’d left my car parked on the Army base at Yongsan (near the gas station). I had to hike a couple of blocks to get there, but of course that’s no big deal. Loaded up and hit the highway at just past eight. I was really surprised to encounter bumper-to-bumper traffic heading south at that hour. Frustrating to be sure for a weary traveler and I was lamenting my decision to not spend the night in Seoul. Once I got past Seongnam things cleared up and I had smooth 100 kmh sailing the rest of the way home, arriving just after 2130.
A long and tiring trip, almost as boring as this post. If you can imagine that. I did have lots of time to think which in my case is often not a good thing. But one of my thoughts was that I had traveled from the future back to the present. And made pretty good time at that.
Gem and I “kissed” and made up. We’ve got some communication issues we need to work on, but it’s early yet…
I’ve been very impressed with Gem’s willingness to indulge my walking habit. She hangs right in there on our 20,000+ step days. Hell, the other day she even said “I’m bored, let’s go for a walk”. Nothing seems to get her goat out on the road either…
During a trek out to Baloy Beach I found this place that may very well work for me…
Talked to the owner, “Lucky Mike” who said the current tenant is leaving in May which of course is when I expect to arrive…
It’s small, only one bedroom, but…
…it has this huge ass patio/deck/balcony thing going for it. My vision would be to convert it to outdoor living space. You know, table/umbrella, hammock, chair swing, and of course a nice grill. It’s on the 3rd floor and features outstanding water views from the patio and great mountain views from the house. 20,000 pesos a month ($400.) works for me too.
The highlight of the day though was participating in my first Hash House Harrier event.
We started out with the administrative stuff (250 peso dues) at Johannson’s Bar and Grill.
Then we loaded up in the back of this truck for the drive out to the Hash starting point.
The days route included hiking up and down two mountains. It was honestly much more difficult terrain than I’ve experienced on Namsan or Bukhansan in Korea. There were a couple of spots where I was even a little fearful. Only fell on my ass a couple of times though.
Let’s get started!
And we are off!
Passed by some residences that show just how lucky I am….
The trail was more difficult that it appears…very steep with dicey footing in places. Next time I’ll definitely bring a walking stick!
Gem kept right up with me the entire way…and she was much better at spotting the trail markings (chalk arrows on trees) that I am. I can truthfully say I would have been lost without her.
From the top of the mountain we were rewarded with amazing views of the bay like this one…
And there lies Barrio Baretto in all its glory. I’ll be calling here home one day soon…
The local kids were quite amused to see the crazy foreigners walking about in the hot sun for no particular reason.
The Hash finished up on the roof of the Hot Zone bar…owned by the leader of the Subic Bay Hashers.
Now, there are certain rituals associated with the Hash that take place at the conclusion of every hike. I don’t fully understand them all yet, but they include sitting bare bottomed on a block of ice and drinking from a toilet plunger. I was happy to just observe.
As a Hash House “virgin” I was required to engage in an initiation ritual…
Which concluded by my having to guzzle an entire bottle of beer in one shot. Anything remaining in the bottle after it left my lips was unceremoniously poured over my head. I missed it by just a sip…
Anyway, it felt like a fresh start and a step in the direction of a new and better future life. We will see how that works out for me.
It was the best of times, it was the worst of times. Rest in Peace motherfucker.
And welcome to the new born year of 2018. Chances are I’ll fuck this one up as well, but hopefully in new and more interesting ways. For sure my future fuck ups will primarily be taking place in the Philippines. So there’s that.
Spent the last night of the year at Lollipop enjoying more live music.
The actually put on a pretty good show playing some outstanding classic rock songs.
Last night a big dick walked into the bar. That really took some balls…
Welcomed the New Year on the rooftop of the Paradise Hotel where we could view the firework show from the old Navy base. Then had a fight with Gem and woke up pissed.
One of the things I like about Barrio Baretto is that while it is a small town it has easy access to major conveniences, such as dining, shopping and of course, bars. I’d reckon it is similar in size to Anjeong-ri (where I currently reside) but with more of an Itaewon vibe (lots of expats from around the world).
So anyway, earlier this week I walked into Rolling Stones bar for the first time ever. And a guy shouts out, “hey John, I know you!”. Well, it turns out it was a guy named Scott. He is a member of the local Hash club that I made Facebook friends with.
Yesterday I popped over to Cheap Charlie’s bar for a quick beer while Gem was napping. The place was packed but I scoped out one open stool at the far end of the bar. Once I was seated I noticed that the guy next to me was Scott, there with another Hasher friend. After they left I saw a woman across the bar who looked vaguely familiar. Finally, I recognized her as the sales girl in a small shop who had sold me a ball cap earlier in the day. We made eye contact and I saw the confusion on her face. I called out that I was in her store earlier…then she remembered me.
Later as I was walking back to my hotel I was thinking about what a small town this truly is so hopefully it won’t take long to make friends and see lots of familiar faces while I’m out and about. Then a Jeepney pulls ups, and out hop John and his girlfriend Mango, the only two people I actually know here. Weird, huh?
And oh, later that evening while Gem and I were enjoying the floating bar at Arizona Resort, in walks Scott and his friend who sit at the table next to mine. Turns out Scott was from Huntington Beach, CA, right next door to my hometown of Westminster. I couldn’t help but remind him how we always kicked their ass in football on Friday nights. Small town, small world.
Snapped this photo of the sun going down from the Arizona floater. Made it my FB profile picture. Later I noticed that Scott had taken a similar photo and made it HIS profile picture. Yeah, it’s getting a little strange, I know.
Had a fish and chips dinner at the Midnight Rambler. Saw this sign on the way out and thought it was good advice. So I took it.
We went to the Velvet Touch bar to hear some live music on a Saturday night.
Apparently the new “no smoking” ordinance is even more restrictive than I thought if this sign in the men’s room is any indication…
Enjoyed my final breakfast of the year at Treasure Island.
Then Gem and I hopped in a Jeepney for the short ride to the Navy base to get some walking and shopping done.
My challenge for the final night of 2017 is to stay sober enough awake to enjoy the countdown to 2018 and fireworks show. We shall see.
So kept busy yesterday working on the transition to my new life in the Philippines. Walked through a subdivision called Santa Rita. Most of the houses appeared to be Filipino occupied and were in various states of disrepair. The guard shack at the entrance was not manned, so much for security.
There was this place…brand new. Called and was told it was a 2 bedroom 2 bath, partially furnished for 25,000 pesos ($500) per month. Given the dicey nature of the neighborhood I’ll give it a pass…
I hired a car and driver to take me out to Club Morocco to look at that big ass house I mentioned yesterday. It’s a great house but…
…much as I’d enjoy waking up to this view every morning the distance from everywhere (over 30 minutes from Baretto) and associated inconvenience makes it not worth the trouble.
I next had the driver take me out to the Subic Bay Freeport Zone (aka the old Navy base) to do some grocery shopping.
Not for me, for the kids at the Fil-Am orphanage.
When we delivered the bounty it was the first time I had actually met the children. On my previous visits they had always been in school. I was very impressed with how well-mannered and happy they seemed to be. Glad to be able to provide a little support and I told the administrator that once I make the move I want to set up a monthly event for the kids to celebrate birthdays and share a big meal. Should be fun!
Last night was the weekly Sons of Baccus (SOB) dance competition. Once again I was asked to sit in judgement.
The other judges concurred with my opinion that the gals from Wet Spot had the best routine last night…
I wound up getting drunker than usual but Gem was a good sport about it.
I also put in some efforts at exorcism trying to free myself from the ghosts of times gone by. Can’t say that I succeeded in slaying them, but I did confront them head on, intentionally visiting those places where the memories were made. Other then feeling a little sick in my stomach I came through unscathed. I’d call that progress.
Had breakfast in one of those old haunts…Treasure Island.
As you can see I’ve suspended my war on carbs for now. Damn, it was good eating!
Gem opted for a traditional Filipino breakfast and she declared it “masarap”.
I despise Manila. Getting from the airport to Subic took nearly four hours, most of that stuck in Manila traffic. It’s an ugly and filthy city and even after all these years I find the poverty shocking. To be fair, there are nice parts of the city you just don’t see them on the trip from the airport. I much prefer flying into Clark in Angeles. Just hard to score a ticket this time of year as it is a very popular tourist destination for Koreans. Well, Korean men anyway.
Anyway, leaving the city behind it is a quite pleasant and scenic drive. Arrived safely at my lodging for the week and got checked in.
The Palm Tree Resort was my third choice, everything else was booked. I’m not happy with the “no view” room, but otherwise the place is clean and comfortable.
I normally stay on Baloy Beach at the Blue Rock Resort. But I knew I’d be dealing with the ghost of Loraine this trip and staying there without her would have been overwhelming. Honestly, I’ve been haunted quite a bit so far as it is. Nothing to be done but face up to the fact that the memories will always be there, I can only control how I choose to react to them. Gem has been a nice distraction.
Speaking of Gem, I’ve introduced to some of the elements of my lifestyle. She hung in there for a pretty decent walk, some on the beach, some on the highway. Gem also has now experienced her first “go-go” bar and she was not shocked or offended. Even seemed to enjoy herself.
Gem is actually a non-drinker. She’s a good sport about my enjoyment of a cold brew though and she’ll even occasionally have a few sips with me.
One of the things I’m hoping to accomplish on this trip is to nail down at least the general area where I will find my house when I move here permanently come what May. (ahem). Revisited a nearby subdivision called Alta Vista.
Most of the houses in Alta Vista feature bay views like this…
…or mountain views like this.
Some houses even have both views. I liked this one because it was about my size (lots of the houses are McMansions in scope).
I did not see any indication that there were any available rentals in Alta Vista however. I do have a phone number where I can at least make some additional inquiries. I did find a house that seems perfect and it will be available for rent in late January.
It has everything!
Including a view to die for.
And what a kitchen!
And the rent? A whopping $500. a month! The only problem with it is the location. Club Morocco is 14 kms from my preferred area in Barrio Baretto. Going to hire a car today and see just how inconvenient living that far out would be.
Met up with my only friend in town for dinner last night. He brought along his new girlfriend. Very lovely girl, and very sweet.
They seem very happy together.
As we finished dinner I was rewarded with this lovely sunset view:
Up at 0330 to to catch the 0430 Airport Limo that arrived at Incheon at 0550 in time to make my 0750 flight to Manila.
I had scored a business class seat when I booked which paid off in many ways. Firstly, I avoided an incredibly long line of cattle coach class passengers waiting to check in. And my checked bag also got priority handling, which made it one of the first ones on the carousel at bag claim in Manila. And one thing I hadn’t actually thought about, my ticket came with access to the Asiana Business Class Lounge!
Waiting for my flight in style and comfort…
Free coffee and breakfast. Damn the carbs, I’m on vacation!
I perched myself by the windows and took in the view while I dined.
So, this trip is my first post-Loraine. There will be no escaping the memories we shared together during my past travels. But I’m going to try and accept that what is done is done and what will be is yet to be seen.
That’s me looking cautiously optimistic…
Well, when I checked in I was advised my flight was delayed for 30 minutes because of “connection problems”. The thirty minutes became almost two hours. Ah well, nothing to be done about it. Got some steps in while I waited.
And of course, once I did board I got to enjoy the luxury of life as a business class traveler.
Big comfortable seats. Good food served on china. And very attentive flight attendants.
I may be ruined on coach forever. Not sure how I wound up with the business class seat to begin with. I booked like I always do through kayak.com. I rarely pick the cheapest flight, instead opting for convenient flight times and major airlines (the budget carriers are just too damn cramped and uncomfortable). Still, I never request business class as an option because spending an additional three or four hundred dollars for a 4 hour flight is just not worth it to me. My ticket this trip was $578., about a hundred dollars more than what I usually pay, but given the holidays not too bad. It as only after I booked that I noticed I had business class on the outbound. Stuck in coach coming home though.
After a comfortable flight which included a nice nap in a fully reclined seat, we landed in Manila. One of the first off the plane, I had no wait at all at immigration. My bag was promptly retrieved, I exchanged some dollars for pesos, and headed outside to enjoy the first day of the rest of my life.
And this little Gem was waiting to greet me. Let the adventure begin!
Coincidentally, it was exactly one year ago when Loraine met me at the airport for the first time. And on that day I had posted this to my Facebook:
“You take a risk giving your heart to anybody. But every time your heart gets stomped on, you pick it up, brush it off, and start looking for somebody else to give it to. You know the risk and you accept it, gladly, because the payoff is worth it. And any love that qualifies itself, any ‘I love her but I don’t trust her’ love, isn’t really love. If you’re not risking everything you have, it’s not love. Ya pays yer money and ya takes yer chances.”
–Steve Rosse
Well, I have a long way to go yet. Let’s see what happens.