Not to worry, the crown is back in place.

This morning I went to “sick call” at the dental clinic on post. Use of the medical facilities is for military only, but they will see civilians on an “emergency” basis. The woman on the phone at the clinic, a Ms. Kim (Kim and Lee are like Smith and Jones here), was doubtful if a lost crown qualified, but told me to come on down and they would see if the dentist would have a look. Once there I filled out some paperwork and got in the queue. There was an irate Colonel who had been waiting for 45 minutes and another soldier ahead of me, plus I knew any walk-in military would have preference. So I asked for a list of dentists on the economy. Ms. Kim was even kind enough to call and help me make an appointment with Dr. Choi.

I must say, it was not a bad experience. A warm greeting (although Koreans seem to struggle with McCrarey, too many “r’s” too close together). Filled out the typical forms, and then the receptionist took my picture. It seemed like standard procedure, but I don’t know what the point of that was. Then it was off to the dental chair. One difference I noticed was that the dentists I am use to have private treatment rooms. Here the chairs were in an open area. It is a little degrading under the best circumstances to lie there all vulnerable with your mouth wide open, but seeing as how I was the last patient for the day I had the place to myself.

Dr. Choi came in and he was a very pleasant individual (nearly all the Koreans I have met here are). He spoke pretty good English, but as he looked at my forms he said I don’t understand what you do (I had put Human Resources as my occupation). I tried to explain but I am not sure he got it. I know he couldn’t pronounce it (that r thing again). Anyway, he said where did you get this crown made, and I said Virginia. He said it was pretty worn but that he would attempt to glue it back. If it comes off again it needs to be replaced. Anyway, he got it back on in short order, then a Korean lovely did the clean up job. You know you have been away from home too long when you are actually enjoying having female hands scraping excess glue from your teeth. All that for 50,000 Won (about $51.00 at the current lousy exchange rate).

Dr. Choi says it is time for a cleaning, so I will be going back next Friday. Really, it’s all about dental hygeine people. Seriously.

I spent the day in training learning how to supervise Korean employees. Most of it was pretty familiar stuff, but the majority of the folks in class did not have an HR background so I suppose it was more beneficial for them. Still, I found the part on some cultural differences of interest. Much of Korean culture is grounded in the Confucian traditions that have existed here for hundreds of years. So today I learned about the five elements in the Confucian code of ethics:

1. Subjects must be loyal to the King.
2. There must be a close relationship (love and obedience) between father and son.
3. There must be a distinct differential between man and wife.
4. The must be respect for the aged by the young.
5. There must be a sense of trust and faithfulness among friends.

And also the five virtures leading to proper behavior:

1. Love of humanity–consideration of others’ feelings and emotions.
2. Justice–assigning each person his proper place and duties.
3. Reverence–acknowledging others’ right and duties.
4. Wisdom–learning the difference between good and evil.
5. Sincerity–truthfulness of purpose.

Pretty simple, eh? I am very fortunate to have some outstanding Koreans working for me. Hard working, never complain, and they take pride in their work. Two of the men I supervise are older and have more seniority, two big factors in determining one’s rank and standing. To be supervised by me probably goes a little against the grain. I try very hard to be respectful (I call them Mr. Kim and Mr. Yi) and I always make it point to seek out their opinion. Which they might not offer if I didn’t ask. So I am learning and I do not expect I will have any real trouble in that regard.

Plus I got this nice certificate:

Tonight I had lesson two in my Korean language class. Consonants this time. So, I “know” all ten vowels and all fourteen consonants. Plus we learned to count to twenty. Well learned is a stretch. I would have to open my text book to count to two. Let’s just say I was exposed to these concepts tonight.

And in a bit of tragic news, I lost the crown on my tooth tonight. Didn’t lose it, I mean it came off (damn Milk Duds). So tomorrow I will get to find out if I have access to a dentist on post or if I need to find one on the economy. Hmm, that would be an experience. We shall see.

I am due for a post at The Wide Awakes this week, so I reckon I will start thinking about politics again soon. I just KNOW y’all have missed my rants these past few days, but actually the break has been kinda nice. Not to worry, I WILL NOT BE SILENCED!

All right, I’m a little too tired tonight to do much writing, so let me whet your appetite with some photos of my little Korean homestead…..

Ok, I won’t accuse the Koreans of engaging in hyperbole, I’ll be kind and say something was lost in the translation. My villa is very nice and comfortable. A clean well-lighted place. However, it is not a Royal Palace (saw one of those in Istanbul).

My street. I really hate when I meet oncoming traffic. It is not quite wide enough for two cars.

The likely scene of my ultimate demise. This intersection has no signal. I need to turn left here to go to work. Cars come flying through. I almost got broadsided Saturday. Of course, my alternative is walking, and it is not a bad option. Except, see those stairs? Well, I should be in good shape (or dead) soon.

Ok, the one thing this place does not have that I really wanted was a view. This is what I settled for….

You can kinda sorta see the Seoul skyline from my balcony, but there is a good view from the rooftop. And the rooftop is set up for cookouts and parties. I’ll get some shots from up there when it warms up a tad.

Let’s go inside….

The entrance foyer. I have adopted the Korean custom of not wearing shoes in the house, hence the slippers….

The living room….

Dining area….


The kitchen….

Now this is pretty cool. It’s a washer/dryer combo and it’s in the kitchen. Used it tonight and it worked like a charm. Very quiet. And small. Took 3 loads to do my meager belongings (well, I had a bath towel and two pair of jeans that made a full load, then the rest of the darks and then the whites). Notice how the landlord put English labels under the Hangul. Good thing too. I did not use the dryer. Landlord says it takes a very long time and since the military housing folks lend appliances, they sent me over this nice big brand-new American Whirlpool dryer….

Which is so convienently [not] located in an alcove on my balcony. Next to the built-in vacuum system which I have already put to work. It’s great!

Ok, on with the tour….

The hallway which leads to….

The guest bedroom and my office….

and a bathroom.

Then on to the master bedroom suite….

This bed is the damnest thing. Queen sheets are too small, King are too large. Go figure.

I have lots of closet space.


And a great master bath. I have not used that big jacuzzi tub yet, but the shower is the best one I have ever had the pleasure to utilize. The six jets of hot water hit all the right places. I spend WAY too much time in there.

Along the back of the villa is this long narrow room. I saw these in a lot of the Korean houses I looked at. I still do not understand the purpose or function. I am using it as a little patio (it is accessable from my office). I guess it would be a good place for plants or something.

The view from the “patio” also pretty much sucks, but I do live near a mosque and you can see the tower from there.

And finally, especially for EuroYank who requested more photos of Korean women, I offer the three sisters who run Sweet Caroline, a bar I have been known to frequent. Left to Right are Mi-Soon, Tami, and Sister.

All right, it’s late and I’m off to bed. I will endeavor to post some news from here tomorrow.

I am so freakin’ excited. KT (Korea Telephone) just set up my Internet! I must confess that I have felt a bit out of sorts without my daily Internet fix. Plus, I felt disconnected from the world (or at least the part of the world that is familiar to me).

So for better or worse, Long Time Gone is back in business. I’ve got a lot of catching up to do and I also owe my devoted readers some snippets of what I have been up to, but bear with me while I see what has been going on in the world this past *gasp* 3 days!

I also have some photos of my new digs I’ll put up a bit later too. It’s like Christmas for me right now, I need to go open up my other presents before I play with this one. I’ll be back in a jiffy……

Just to let you know all is well. Last night I went with my realtors to make sure my villa has been furnished appropriately, or at least in accordance with my understanding, and it was. I was really worried about what kind of furniture the landlord would pick out because I have discerned certain cultural differences in things like color coordination and furniture style. The landlord did all right. Not what I would have picked, but I can work with it. I despise the chrome and glass coffee table, but I’m hoping Mrs. LTG will consent to send me a tapestry or two she purchased during our recent trip to Istanbul. A rug for the LR floor, some pictures for the wall, and I’ll have it feeling like home or a reasonable facsimile thereof in no time. I’ll be posting lots of photos, so stay tuned.

After work today (and I am very busy at work right now) I am going to the BX to equip the villa with the necessities of life. Oh, and I need to get over to KT (Korean Telephone) for my basic phone service and Internet connection. I am hoping I can be hooked up by Friday when I move in, but if not I may be out of touch for a couple of days.

Tonight is my last night in this hotel! I am so damned excited about that.

Saturday afternoon I will be attending my boss’s wedding. Still haven’t found a gift, but I will probably just pick up a vase or something lame like that. It may be sexist, but I really am lost without Mrs. LTG when it comes to the social graces. The Korean tradition is to give money as a wedding gift, and that really makes a lot of sense. If it weren’t my boss I might do that, but I just can’t get over the cultural (and ethical) hurdles associated with giving money to the person who evaluates my performance.

Well I should have some interesting blog material coming soon what with the move and the wedding and the shopping. Until then….

The Colonel’s secret recipe of herbs and spices that is. Yep, on my walkabout yesterday I stopped into the Itaewon KFC and got the two piece meal (W4900). The chicken had a reddish tint rather than the golden brown to which I am accustomed. It was quite spicy and came with a packet of hot sauce just in case you wanted a little more fire. I didn’t. It was not bad, just not what I expected. The biscuit was excellent, the cole slaw tasted the same as home. No mashed potatoes and gravy though. Anyway, for the first time since I arrived in Korea I had a negative reaction to something I ate. I was up and down all night with trips to the bathroom if you get my meaning. Anyway, all better this morning.

It has been very cold. My weather girl says it is 10 degrees this morning. I walked into town yesterday afternoon to see if I could find a shortcut to my villa. I did find a back way, but I will have to climb some steep steps (I didn’t count, but it looks like 50 and feels like 100) whichever direction I take. Yea! A built in workout everyday, and I don’t even have to buy a Stairmaster!

I hadn’t noticed when I was shown the villa, but the building it’s in is called The Royal Palace. Well, it’s a nice place but that’s a bit of an overstatement. I just hope the landlord picks out some furnishings that are comfortable and not too ugly. Guess I will find out soon enough.

Played some more CIV III last night. Those damn Carthaginians did a sneak attack on me. So I have been plotting some appropriate retaliation that is very un-Gandhi like (I’m playing as India).

I may venture out again if it gets a little warmer today. The walls in this hotel room do tend to close in on you after awhile.

Well, I did get out and about some yesterday. I did some window shopping here on base trying to get an idea of what I will have to spend out of pocket to equip my villa (apartment really, but that’s the local term of art for an apartment in a building with 4 or fewer floors). I will need to purchase bed linens, towels, dishes, pots and pans, cooking utensils, microwave, gas grill, TV, and a DVD player. Plus everything I have not thought of yet, but will when I need it. So depending on how much I decide to spend for the TV I am looking at between $1500 and $3500. Ouch. Mrs. LTG is going to send some extra linens and towels and my Ansel Adams prints for the walls, but that will take 8 weeks or so to arrive. Regardless, I am very excited about moving day this Friday.

Came back to the hotel and worked on my Korean using my flash cards. Acquired a few new words, so I walked into to Itaewon to try them out. There are many different types of drinking establishments, and you have to exercise due caution in the ones you choose to patronize. Obviously the ones that USFK has declared off-limits are out. Those are the places that sell sex along with the booze. Not off limits but still to be avoided in my view are the ones where a pretty Korean woman sits with you at the bar and chats you up, then sweetly asks if you will buy her a drink. A drink that costs 20,000 WON (about $20). That’s expensive company, and I am not THAT lonely!

So far, I have found two places that are comfortable, where you can sit and have a beer or two in a friendly atmosphere with no strings attached. I mentioned the 3 Alley Pub previously. The other bar is called Sweet Caroline’s (and yes, they do have the Neil Diamond song of that name included amongst a pretty eclectic mix of English language music they play). Last night was my third visit and I am starting to feel like a regular. They call me “the professor”. Go figure.

The first time I went there I met some folks from Great Britain who were hilarious and really fun to hang out with. I always carry a few of my flash cards to check my pronunciation and the bartender has been getting into her role as school teacher. I reciprocate by teaching her English idioms (she has a good command of basic English). For example, I was learning my animal names last night: chwee (mouse), kaw-yang-ee (cat), ke (dog). I then explained to Mi-soon (the bartender’s name) the meaning behind such things as “playing cat and mouse” and “fighting like cats and dogs”. She had never heard those phrases and really got a kick out of it.

I think I’m viewed as somewhat eccentric because I eat the popcorn they serve with chopsticks. Hey, gotta practice, practice, practice. They also make fun of my beer belly (good naturedly I hope), which is a pretty good motivator for me to really focus on losing some weight. Speaking of beer, I have sampled 3 of the popular Korean brands; OB, Hite, and Cass. All pretty good, all light pilsners. I am leaning towards making Cass my beer of choice.

A Sergeant Major named Sergio came in last night. He had been in my new arrivals training but we had not really had a chance to talk. It was his first visit to Sweet Caroline’s and they made him feel right at home, giving him the nickname “Valentino”. Interesting guy. Been in the military 27 years and has traveled the world, although this was his first time in Korea. It was pretty cool encountering a familiar face and I enjoyed chatting with him. We walked back to the base together in plenty of time to stay out of curfew trouble. But damn it was COLD. Around 20 degrees and the wind was blowing like it does in Chicago. It’s 14 this morning.

Anyway, it was a nice night out and I think I needed the social interaction. Thanks to all who expressed concern for my well-being. There are always going to be good days and bad days. Sometimes being isolated on base and in this hotel just exacerbates the loneliness and longing for home. But, I have a positive outlook and I really am enjoying learning about this fascinating country and its people. Even when it is hard and I’m feeling blue, I do not regret my decision to come. I know that once I have moved I will be much more comfortable with my situation.

I really want to check out the electronics market and do some cost comparisons with the BX. It is close to the base, but in an area I have not ventured out to as yet. I just wish it weren’t so damn cold out. I have the car now, but parking is a nightmare and frankly I get a little freaked driving in unfamiliar territory. If I know where I’m going I can manage it, but this is not the kind of city I want to get lost in. We’ll see.

Alright then, that’s what I’ve been up to. Now, let’s see if I can’t find some interesting political issue to write about. 🙂

And the wind is blowing. So much for my Saturday plans of getting out and about. Well, we’ll see. After a few more hours in this hotel room, braving a blizzard may seem comparatively easy. Back home I would be stoking the fireplace, Carol would bake some brownies, we’d pop in a DVD and life would be good.

I am not homesick
I am not homesick
I am not homesick
I am not homesick
Wish I were home
I am not homesick
I am not homesick
I am not homesick
I am not homesick

What was the noise? Oh, CIV III is calling me. Back later.

UPDATE: WooHoo, the sun is out! So, I am going to go out and walk around and see what there is to see. Talk to you later!

All right, let me tell you about my week in the land of the morning calm. (This is a LONG post. If you get bored, just scroll down to the photos).

Monday was the first of a three day “new arrivals” training program we are encouraged to attend. Monday sucked. The presenters were just going through the motions for the most part, seemed rushed and disinterested, and failed to convey much useful information. The group (about 20 of us) was a mix of military, civilians, and dependents. It was often unclear what information was applicable to the military folks exclusively or whether civilians were also expected to abide by those rules of conduct. Near as I can tell, unlike my military brethren, I am permitted to use off post barbers and I am not required to use the “buddy system” when I go into town. One thing was made very clear, the 1200-0500 curfew applies to everyone here, and it will be strictly enforced. A contractor in Osan was suspended for three weeks without pay for a curfew violation. The streets of Itaewon are crawling with MPs so it is likely you will be caught if you are not on base or in your residence after midnight. The curfew is very controversial amongst the civilians, but I for one will willingly submit to General LaPorte’s authority to impose “force protection” measures as he sees fit. He’s the boss, and I am here to serve, not make demands.

Anyway, except for the female sergeant who barked out her ten minute presentation like we were a bunch of recruits and the EAP guy who was a dead ringer for the counselor on South Park (he actually said “hmmkay” repeatedly) there was not much to keep us entertained.

After Monday’s fiasco I was not looking forward to Tuesday, but I was very much pleasantly surprised. Mr. Lee gave us an introduction to Korean history that was fascinating. He is a history professor at a local university and he was quite passionate about his subject. For centuries the Koreans have lived in the shadow of the big gorilla called China, and have had to fight repeatedly to keep their culture from being assimilated by the Chinese. He talked about the methods China used in Manchuria and Mongolia, and warned that China was a force to be reckoned with in the future. He said the Chinese are a very patient people, but their dream of dominance is being actively pursued. He talked about the Japanese a lot too. Although Asians look similar to many Americans, the cultures of Korea, China and Japan are very unique. Each has its own language and customs that define them as a people, and they have struggled mightily to preserve those identities for thousands of years.

Mr. Lee also talked about the special relationship the Republic of Korea has with the United States. He noted that over 7,000 South Koreans died fighting alongside their American brothers in Vietnam. I never knew that. He said that bonds forged in blood are difficult to sever, but it was very important for each of us to be positive examples as Americans. He talked about how we will leave his country after a couple of years, but the image we leave with the people we meet here will remain with them for a lifetime. I do take that responsibility very seriously. In the short time I have been here I have come to realize that you definitely want the Koreans on your side.

We next learned of some “do’s and don’ts” of Korean manners. Some things are common sense (respect the elderly) and others require changing some habits (using two hands to pour drinks or when paying for something). I am more comfortable in social settings with each passing day and once I master some of the language, I think I will get along quite well with the people here.

Ah, the Korean language. I guess I have a vocabulary of twenty or so words, some useful (hello, thank you) others not so helpful (various body parts and items of clothing). But I am learning, and Koreans are always appreciative of the effort and quite friendly about correcting your pronunciation. We were introduced to the Korean alphabet (Hangul). It has 24 “letters”, 10 vowels and 14 consonants. Interestingly, no capital letters. The Hangul symbols that are so alien now will make sense once I have memorized the alphabet. Each symbol represents a consonant-vowel or consonant-vowel-consonant. Unlike Chinese, where each symbol represents a word (thus requiring learning thousands and thousands of words), once you have memorized the Hangul characters and the sounds they represent, you can read the language. Of course, you won’t know what it means until you can associate those words with the objects they represent, but comparatively speaking, it is not all that difficult. Or so I have been assured. I will soon find out as I have signed up for Korean lessons, and will be attending class twice weekly for the next three months. At last, a social life!

Wednesday was our field trip day. We took a bus from Yongsan garrison into downtown Seoul. Of course it was snowing a bit, but it was warm enough to keep down the accumulation on the streets. We toured a museum, and observed the Blue House, where President Roh keeps residence. It is built at the base of Bugak Mountain, which serves as a natural barrier to missile attacks from North Korea. Well, unless they are armed with nuclear warheads, but that is a recent development. Security around the Blue House is incredibly tight, and photography is strictly limited. I was allowed to take a photo from one location, so here it is:

I will come back on a sunny day and remember to use my zoom next time. Still, you get a sense of what I described. Next, I have a picture of Mr. Lee in front of the north gate of Guyongbokgung Palace, which was the seat of the Choson dynasty.

Yes, I know I have no skill with a camera. Use your imagination!

After our visit to the Blue House, we bussed over to Lotte World. A pretty interesting place. It has a big amusement park (indoor and outdoor), large shopping area, and museums. It reminded me a little of the Mall of America in Minneapolis-St. Paul. We had a very nice guide who led us around the place. Here’s a picture of the entrance:

So, we walked around inside the museum and observed depictions of Korean life from the stone age forward. It was pretty nicely done. I snapped this picture of one of the displays of Palace life during the Choson dynasty:

Then there is this guy, who is not much like the Koreans I have had the good fortune to encounter:

Next we had a traditional Korean lunch at a restaurant inside the museum. They had the short tables, but also some western style tables better suited for us big Yanks. That’s where we were seated. Of course we had two types of ever present kimchi (which I like quite well), soup, and then a big bowl of something (bindaettok?) I can’t recall the name of. Anyway, it had rice and shrimp and sprouts and a raw egg on top and was served in a sizzling bowl (like fajitas). We stirred up all up together, added some soy and hot sauce, and dug in. Well, I didn’t exactly dig in. I have been practicing and practicing with the wooden chopsticks I received as a going away gift, but damn, those metal chopsticks the Koreans prefer are difficult to master. I was disappointed with my performance to say the least. I was able to manage small bites with great effort, but anyone who has seen me eat knows I am not a small bite kinda guy. Well, at least I didn’t have to ask for a fork, so that is some progress I suppose.

After lunch it was on to the amusement park where we were treated to some free rides. We did the jungle river, the monorail, and some of us braved the roller coaster. I had something very strange happen on that ride. When I got near the front of the line, the guy who holds the stick to make sure you are tall enough to ride looks at me and says “how old?” I was dumbfounded so I just stared at him. “How old, how old?” he repeated. I blurted out “49”. He looked doubtful but nodded and walked off. My new American friends were laughing their asses off. I saw a sign completely in Hangul except for the numerals “55”, so I surmise that you can’t ride if you have reached that particular milestone. Looks like I need to buy a bottle of Grecian formula or something. Well, I was so disconcerted that when I was boarding the coaster, I tripped on the seat and knocked the restraining bar of the car ahead of mine into the head of a young Korean girl. She yelped but was gracious to my humble “meean-hamneeda” (sorry). Of course, the restraint locked into the down position, but she was able to squirm under it and into her seat. I sheepishly looked at the Korean teenagers in line who appeared equally bemused and disgusted. So much for my contribution to international good-will. At least the ride was a blast! Here’s a photo of the inside portion of the amusement park:

And here’s one of a vending machine I thought was kind of interesting. You can’t tell in this picture, but the English label on a can of DelMonte orange juice reads “squash orange”. Guess something was lost in translation.

After leaving Lotte World, we took the subway back to Yongsan, including a station change. This was to get us familiar and comfortable with riding the really fine public transportation system in Seoul. It is actually easier than the Metro in DC. You buy a ticket that is used to enter and exit the station. The trains are all color coded and the stops are sequentially numbered which is real handy. They also make station announcements in English. So this may prove to be my preferred mode of travel, as I am not at all comfortable driving with locals quite yet.

Wednesday night I spent with my new friend Howard drinking far too many beers in the hotel bar. He is an amazing man with many talents. He is an actor, artist, writer, swordsman, and all around good guy. He has been a lifesaver for me during my first few weeks in Korea. Sorry to say he is moving to Japan (left tonight). I am really going to miss him. But he sold me his car and gave me his cell phone, so at least I have those tokens to remember him by.

Which brings us to today. I had high hopes for getting much accomplished, but was only partially successful. I caught up with Howard a little after 0800 and we went about our business of doing the car transaction. First I had to buy insurance, so he took me to a place in Itaewon. Unfortunately, the insurance person didn’t get to work until nine, so we spent the time chatting about his Irish ancestors who were pirates in the 18th century. Fascinating. So, we finally got the insurance purchased at a fair price of $353 per year. Then it was off for the vehicle inspection, done by one of the garages on base. Then we had to go to the vehicle registration building at Camp Kim, but it was closed on Thursday until 1300. So I took Howard back to the hotel so he could finish packing, and I went off to get my ration card and pay situation straightened out.

No luck, the ration place and civilian personnel were both closed until 1300 for “sergeant’s time”. Don’t know what the hell is up with that, but seeing as how my unit gets no such benefit, I reported to work. I had a message from my realtor saying she wanted to meet me at 1700, so I figured we would complete the paperwork on my apartment so I could move in next week as planned. Being out of the office for three days meant a full inbox and lots of email accumulation. Plus, the Chief of Staff (a person that must be kept happy) was not satisfied with the results of a big project I had worked on last week, so that elephant is back at the top of my to do list. Let’s just say work wise, things are heating up.

At 1300 Howard and I went back to Camp Kim to finish the vehicle registration process. Went off without much trouble, except we needed an officer to sign the bill of sale. Luckily, there was a Lieutenant waiting to register her car, and she graciously fulfilled that requirement for me. Here’s a photo of the nice Korean soldier who affixed my USFK decal to the window of MY car (a 1992 Mitsubishi Expo).

And here is the former owner of MY car and good friend, Howard:

Oh, all right. Here’s one of me. And yes I know that the great food in this hotel has not been kind to me. I’m working on it. Really. Once I move and stop eating like a king on the government’s dime (and start walking to work) I will be fine. Honest. (In the meantime, I need to learn to use photoshop so I can make that “pe” (stomach) disappear).

When I got back to the office I had an email that my pay situation has been straightened out, so I at least accomplished that. A car and a paycheck. Now for the house.

Well, the realtor met me with the news that there was a “small” problem with the apartment I had chosen. Seems the owner has decided to sell the place rather than rent it to me. I was quite disappointed. Ms. Kim and her trusty companion Ms. Jeong took me back to a place I had previously considered but rejected for reasons of location and lack of furnishings. It is a very nice place. Brand new, which I do like. Modern appliances and plenty spacious. I met the owner and his wife and they were quite pleasant. The man’s zipper was down, and Ms. Kim kept whispering to me to tell him about it. Hell, I didn’t want to embarrass him, but Ms. Kim was insistent, so when she left the room I just pointed at his crotch. I don’t think he understood what I wanted at first, which made me a little nervous that I might cause yet another international incident. Then he got it, blushed, zipped up and mumbled something in Korean that I choose to believe was kind. I know losing face is a bad thing, especially during a financial negotiation. Oh well. He agreed to furnish the place and with the horrible exchange rate that currently exists, I am getting what appears to be a good deal.

The villa is in Hamman-dong, which is just down the road from Itaewon, probably a mile or so farther out than the villa I was supposed to rent. I’m on the second floor and the view is not nearly as nice as I had hoped for, but it is on a slightly better street (not as narrow and steep). There is a great rooftop area set up for party’s: tables, and a kitchen and the view is great. So I guess when the weather is nice I can spend time up there. Anyway, I still get to move next week and that is important to me. I think it will work out fine, but I will have to purchase a TV/DVD, appliances, dishes, linens, towels, etc.

Ok folks, I have worked on this post for over two hours. Hope you found it of interest. Now, I’m off to bed. Big day at work tomorrow, plus I have to be at the housing office at 1500 to sign the lease. I just want to be done with all the BS and settled into a life. Any life but this hotel room experience. Good night!

Yesterday I escaped for awhile into the fantasy world of CivIII. Put a whuppin’ on the Iroquois. They fought bravely but ultimately their infantry was no match for my tanks, not to mention my flawless strategic planning.

I don’t know why it always seems to be the coldest here on days I’m not working. Yesterday was no exception. It was in the low 20s and the wind was blowing. Still, I needed to get out of this hotel room so I took a walk into Itaewon (pronounced E/tay/wawn). Thought I would walk by my apartment. So I get on that twisty narrow road (about as wide as an alley really) and discover that I don’t remember exactly where it is. One thing for sure, after hiking up that hillside and wandering around, I was no longer feeling the cold. Anyway, I never did find the place, but one of the roads led me back down into mainstreet Itaewon, so I decided to just see what was going on there.

First time I had actually been in town when the sun was out. How would I describe it? Hmmm, not exactly charming, but interesting. Like a faded beauty who is wrinkled and sagging, and tries to compensate with too much make-up and skirts too short for a woman her age. Well, maybe that’s harsh. There is an undercurrent of sleaze (it is a military town), but the streets are clean and safe. And the houses and apartments are built up on the hillsides surrounding the town, sort of like in San Francisco. That has some visual appeal. And it is winter. I understand the springtime is especially nice when the cherry trees bloom. So I am just relating a first impression, I will reserve final judgment until I have spent more time here.

Yesterday was the last day of a three day Korean holiday celebrating the Seol-nal, or Lunar New Year. It is a real big deal (like Christmas in the States) and most of the businesses were closed. The street vendors were still there, although there were fewer than normal. So, it was a good opportunity to walk the streets. Did I mention it was cold? Eventually, I needed a restroom but I couldn’t find an open restaurant or bar for awhile (it was early afternoon, bars didn’t open until 4:oo). Ah, Outback Steakhouse was open. I felt obligated to have a beer in exchange for restroom privalages, so I sat at the bar. The waitress brought me a loaf of bread, so I figured I had to order something from the menu, even though I had already eaten at the hotel. The Clam Chowder was actually delicious, and I enjoyed watching a Korean infomercial on the bar TV. I don’t have a clue about Hangul (the written language) nor do I understand much Korean (other than hello and thank-you), so it is really strange being an observor of the surrounding environment under those conditions.

Here are a couple of pictures I took along the way:

Itaewon street scene

A bar called Frog. It was closed but I might have to go check it out someday.

I have no idea what’s up with this. Nazi party headquarters? Not likely, but since I don’t read Hangul I can’t imagine what the nature of this business is.

Another ambiguous sign. I can’t tell if this is a comedy club or a strip joint. I didn’t go in to find out…..

And I will leave you with this Seoul sunset.

Today is the day that Seol-Nal is officially celebrated. It is a 3 day holiday for our Korean employees, and US employees get tomorrow off.

This holiday is a real big deal, most businesses close and lots of people travel out of the city to honor their ancestors. And of course, Koreans are all one year older today!

So, I doubt I will be able to find any collard greens, black-eyed peas, butter beans and cornbread on the menu anywhere, but Happy Lunar New Year to you where ever you may be, and welcome to the year of the Rooster!

In both the North and South parts of the peninsula. But coming soon to a theatre in Czechoslovakia. Seems the folks north of the DMZ believe it hurts the image of that fair paradise. Down here in the south, they don’t want to antagonize a country with 3 million troops stationed near the border. As reported in this press account:

“It harms the image of our country,” the Lidove Noviny daily quoted a North Korean diplomat as saying. “Such behavior is not part of our country’s political culture. Therefore, we want the film to be banned.”

The Czech Foreign Ministy said the film would not be banned in the Czech Republic.

“We told them it’s an unrealistic wish,” ministry spokesman Vit Kolar was quoted as saying. “Obviously, it’s absurd to demand that in a democratic country.”

Let freedom ring, baby. I’m getting the DVD and showing it to ALL my friends here in the ROK (well, I don’t technically have any friends yet, but maybe this DVD will be my entré into polite company). Or not. Who cares, the movie rocks and I am up for a good laugh!

Via The Marmot’s Hole

Ok, some might think that blogging about my haircut is pretty lame. And some might be right. And I am going to do it anyway. Because this is not just your ordinary, run of the mill haircut, this is my first Korean haircut.

It was quite the experience really. The first thing I said was don’t use the shears, just scissors. I may work for the Army, but with all due respect, I don’t have to wear an Army cut and I choose not to do so. So the barber nodded and asked if I wanted the shampoo and massage. I responded confidently “sure”. Now, I am used to having my hair washed prior to the haircut. So when the barber proceeded to cut my hair dry, I figured she had misunderstood my confident “sure” as a declination.

Well, the haircut proceeded in the usual fashion, and she did a nice job clearing the jungle in my ears (shut up!) without my asking. Then she asked if I wanted my moustache trimmed and I said “sure” but with less confidence. Probably should have given a decisive “no” in retrospect, but one thing about hair, it does grow back.

So I figure that’s about it, when another person comes up and loosens my tie and unbuttons my shirt halfway. Puts a towel around my neck and reclines the barber chair so my head is in the sink. Interesting, I did get the shampoo after all (and after the haircut). So, when she is done with my hair, she turns the chair, raises the footrest, and all of the sudden I am prone in the chair, much like my recliner at home.

Next thing I know I have a hot towel on my face, which felt pretty good. Then that towel was removed and a cool towel was placed over my eyes. Then I felt this lotion being rubbed into my face. Not exactly a scent I would have chosen, but I could feel my skin begin to firm up almost immediately (and at my age that is an unusual feeling). While this is going on, another pair of hands starts a gentle pounding on my right calf. And then rubbing my leg (all from the knee down, so get your mind out of the gutter!). Then she moved up to my shoulders and neck. While another pair started in on the right side. Then my arms, hands, and fingers. After that was done, it was another hot rag on the face.

Then came gel in my hair. No blow dry, just slicked it on back. Definitely a new look for me. Needless to say, I left much more relaxed than I came in. And all this for half of what I paid for the standard cut in DC.

So I have now confessed to the fact that I had by my count three pair of female Korean hands on my body today and I don’t feel the least bit guilty about it.

I guess I understand why you ladies enjoy the spa experience so much.

I wonder if my hair will grow faster here. Or maybe I will just go back tomorrow and say “you missed a spot”. (On my head! Y’all have such dirty minds!)

Anyway, that is the story of my first haircut in Korea. I am quite certain you could not possibly have enjoyed it as much as I did!

I actually slept in this morning. I stayed out on the town last night almost to curfew drinking beer. The matchbooks in my pocket say I visited Gecko’s Bar, Casablanca, and the Oasis. Oh, and I dined at Papa’s, although dining is a bit of stretch. The waitress did not speak English so I pointed at something on the menu. I got a pitcher of beer and a plate of dried fish. What do you expect for 12000 Won, right? Anyway, that’s my excuse for over indulging on the beer and the reason for my sleeping in. I might head back into town this afternoon to check out the shopping. Contrary to appearances, I am not that fond of sitting in bars and drinking alone.

So to catch you up on my adventures since my last report there are only two things worthy of note. On Thursday the Director announced that I would be detailed to the vacant position of Chief, Labor and Performance Management Division. No additional pay, but the duties include supervision of several employees, including Korean nationals. So Friday was my first day as acting Chief and it was hopping. I expect I am going to be much busier in this job, but that is what I prefer. In fact, I had thought about taking Superbowl Monday off so I could watch the game, but that will not be possible now as I have a hot project to finish.

Yesterday I decided on my apartment. In Seoul, there are three basic types of housing. Single family homes (rare and expensive), villas, and high rise condos. A villa is usually in a building that is less than four stories, which is what I have chosen. I’m on the second floor, with a decent view of Itaewon and the surrounding environs. Three bedrooms, two baths, and a decent sized living area with fireplace. I saw places that were newer, had better views, and nicer floor plans, but in the end I went for the convienence of location. I am an easy 20 minute walk from where I’ll be working and right above the main drag in Itaewon where I will have easy access to dining and shopping and yes, bars.

Anyway, I am glad to have finally got my housing situation resolved. I should be moving around the 24th of this month. Of course, I have lots of things to accomplish in the interim, but once I am done with this I should be able to settle in to my new life in Korea and lose this feeling of transience. I confess to feeling quite homesick last night (drinking alone in bars will do that I suppose). Well, my motto is one day at a time. I will not allow myself to dwell on the unknown future, I am going to just make the best of each day and see what I can learn from it. (hell, that’s more of a mantra than a motto, isn’t it?)

Addresses are a funny thing here in Korea. In the States, I live in Stafford. Here I live in a neighborhood, that is part of a community, that is part of a city. So, if I were to tell someone where I am going to be living it would be: Itaewon Dong, Yong San Gu, Seoul.

All right then, that’s the news for now. I have ordered room service breakfast (Warsaw omelette, polish sausage, jack cheese, and mushrooms) which just now arrived. And I have my Sunday edition of Stars and Stripes to read (not exactly the Washington Post, but not bad either). So, I will be back later with hopefully something a little more interesting to share with my loyal readers.

…or so I am led to believe. Former Miss Korea Jeong A-reum takes a few swings and shows good form. Maybe I’ll go out and watch a couple of rounds…. Not work safe!

Via The Marmot’s Hole

Ok, midway through week two of my life in Korea. Not a whole hell of a lot to report since the last update to be honest. Looked at a couple of more apartments yesterday. One was furnished and fully equipped (i.e. dishes, etc). In Itaewon, on the hill overlooking the main street through town. Actually, the view was terrific…mountains, lights of the city, Seoul tower. But the road getting up there is narrow and winding and steep and cluttered with parked vehicles. I asked the realtor if it was a one way street, and she said “no, two way.” Hmmm, it would be tough to drive in good conditions, put some snow or ice on there and I don’t know. Seriously, if you met a car coming the other direction, someone would have to back down (or up as it were). So, I don’t know. Guess it is still too early to “settle”.

A guy I work with is taking a job in Japan. I am buying his car (a 1992 Mitsubishi). I have had notoriously bad luck with used cars recently, so I am a little concerned. Then again, I have never bought a bad used car in Korea, so who knows? It just makes no sense to spend big money on a car I plan to rarely drive and will quite possibly get damaged if I don’t rapidly adjust to the norms of the streets of Seoul. I’m also going to take a look at his apartment, his description sounds good. He offered me his wife too (he’s divorcing) but I politely declined.

Work has been slow. I don’t have nearly enough to do yet, but I am sure that will change soon. I pissed off some colonel because I misunderstood what he had asked me to do, but it was a minor snafu, I apologized and I expect he will get over it.

Other than that, it has just been cold, cold, cold. It’s in the low teens in the morning, so I have been taking a cab to the office. Warms up to the twenty’s during the day, but it is uncomfortable when the wind blows. Still, it has been cold back home, so I’m not complaining.

The food at the hotel is excellent. I pretty much just do room service. Had prime rib on Monday, NY Strip yesterday, and some great ribs tonight. Well, the per diem ends when I get my own place, so I am taking advantage while I can.

That’s pretty much it from here folks. There is much happening in the world, and most of it is good. So I am thankful for that. Keep our soldiers in your prayers.

Nine degrees out there this morning, but at least there’s no precip. The Internet connection in the hotel is also acting sporadic, which is somewhat frustrating. Oh well. Off for another workday here in the land of Tuesday morning. See you tonight.

Dog meat ramyon. Yum. (no, I am not really eating this stuff.)

Lifted from Lost Nomad who “stole” it from Connect Korea. Ain’t the blogosphere grand?

Here I sit on Thursday night drinking wine from a coffee cup. Day is done for me, and you readers back in the States will be waking soon to start your day. Sorry, you will have to wait to find out what is going to happen on Thursday. Under the terms of the International Dateline protocols I am precluded from revealing your future.

All right, enough with the BS. My day was pretty routine. I shared the webpage I found on the curfew [see post below] at work and it generated quite a bit of discussion. I just can’t get that worked up about it, but a couple of my colleagues are chafing at having their Constitutional rights infringed upon. Well, whatever.

Oh, I took my driver’s test. And passed. I missed four, which surprised me because I actually did study. Of course I don’t know which four I missed, but I guess I will find out some dark night when I turn the wrong way on a one-way street or something. So, I passed the test but I didn’t get the license. Yep, can’t get the license without my permanant ID. Went to HR and I am still not in the “system” so no ID is forthcoming. Good thing DoD has all the latest computer technology or I may never get that ID. I understand there are security reasons for this drawn out process, but come on, four days to input me in the database?

I did get my paperwork in for my salary advance. Now that I can get without being in the system, which makes no sense. Stopped by the JAG office to get a power of attorney and find out if I have to pay taxes to the Commonwealth of Virginia while overseas, but they can’t help me. No permanant ID. Ditto on my travel voucher. This is sorta like living in a Joseph Heller novel.

Oh well. I did meet with a major on a pending reorganization, and it was good to be back in the advice giving business. I am really anxious to start doing the work they brought me here to do full time, instead of spinning my wheels while waiting for that elusive ID. It just better be gold plated or something when I do get it.

I’ve been walking all over the base and I can actually find my way around pretty good now. Even took a short cut which gave me some confidence that I am gaining a sense of direction. Tomorrow I plan to venture into the infamous Itaewon district. Half of Itaewon is “off limits”, but I am a little unclear on which half. I am sure those helpful MPs will let me know if I stray off course.

I have taken a couple of pictures and I will try to upload them later tonight. They aren’t real good because it has been pretty much overcast all week. Plus, I have to be sensitive about using a camera on a military installation. They do take security very seriously here, and I am guessing they have reasonable cause to do so.

Enough writing for now, I want to go read my favorite blogs and find something that is actually interesting to share with you.

By the way, it really means a lot to me that y’all drop by to read me. It keeps me connected. I love your comments, even when you disagree with the obvious rightness of my viewpoints. Thanks!