I fought the law…

…and the law won.  Don’t it always?

My first traffic infraction in nearly six years in Korea.  And my last ticket before that was back in 2000.  It seems that one of the ubiquitous traffic cameras caught me doing 76 km/h in a 60 km/h zone.  Actually, I don’t tend to be a lead foot driver.  I’m guessing this occurred during the transition from a 80 km/h speed limit.  Yep, the age old speed trap appears to be a global phenomenon.

It appears flaunting the law is going to set me back 70,000 won.  

At the West Sea

So for the Independence Day weekend, we took a roadtrip out to the West Sea on Korea’s, well, west coast.  Now, to the rest of the world, this is known as the Yellow Sea.  It would only make sense to call it the West Sea if Korea were the center of the universe.  Oh wait.  I’ve answered my own question.

Anyway, the weekend started and ended with overcast days and rainy nights.  It all worked out fine though.  Saw some excellent countryside on the drive, which was really the point of the trip, before encamping at Daechon Beach in Boryeong.  This is the site of the famous (well, famous enough to have a Wikipedia entry) annual Boryeong Mud Festival.  Missed it this year by 2 weeks (it begins on the 17th) which is a good thing.  Room rates triple and I imagine things get a tad crowded.  Saturday and Sunday were pretty hoppin’ as it was.

Anyway, it was a good trip.  Photos pretty much suck, but here they are anyway:

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Stopped at the Hwaseong rest area/foodcourt/gas station along the highway.  It seemed like half the population of Korea was there as well, but really the facility was built to handle volume and thing went rather smoothly.

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The food court options were numerous if you were in the mood for something Korean.  Me, I was was craving a Big Mac…

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Cripes, where did I park?

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Hey, somebody stole the West Sea!  No, the tide was out near Amyeong…

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Barbecue shell for dinner at a seaside restaurant in Daechon…

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Preparations for the mud festival were in full swing.  Bali Bali!

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The view from my night 2 room.  I stayed on the beach the first night, but damn, Koreans like to beach party all night long. Loudly!  Actually, I could still hear them clearly from my off the beach venue as well.

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Typical Daechon architecture.   The big blue motel sign marks the spot of my first night’s residence.

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By Monday morning the crowds had left and Daechon took on a more serene posture.

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The Yellow West Sea.

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It is always nice to get out of town and see that there is a whole ‘nother world and lifestyle beyond the concrete environs of Seoul.

“Our nation honors her sons and daughters who answered the call to defend a country they never knew and a people they never met.”

It was 60 years ago today that the North Koreans invaded the Republic of Korea.  Things got ugly fast, then with American-led UN intervention, they got better, and when China engaged they got bad again.  Finally, things ended up in a stalement (aka armistice) pretty much where they began, except for the hundreds of thousand dead and utter destruction and devastation of both countries.  That’s the short version of the war, a longer one can be found here.

Althought tensions have been running high on the peninsula of late, relative peace and tranquility reigns south of the 38th parallel.   Not so much up North of course, but it is that comparison that is the truest indicator of who won the war.  I doubt there are many citizens of the ROK who would willinging trade places with their DPRK brothers and sisters.

And so on this anniversary of that infamous day of invasion we should pause to honor all those who made the ultimate sacrafice that others may live thier lives in freedom and prosperity.

Honoring Walton H. Walker

Today I had the pleasure of attending the Honor Guard ceremony in remembrance of General Walton Walker, Eighth Army Commanding General during the opening months of the Korean War.   He is sometimes referred to as “the savior of Korea” for his stout defense of the “Pusan Perimeter” in the summer of 1950.  You can read all about the man and his exploits at the link.

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U.S. and ROK soldiers on the parade ground.

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Looking sharp in those dress uniforms…

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The 8th Army band was in excellent form as well…

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LTG Fil, 8th Army CG and Korean dignitaries perform the ritual of reviewing the troops.

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Speeches were made and the flags of many nations fluttered in the breeze.  Not implying any connection between those two events!

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The U.S. Honor Guard Company soldiers marched past…

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…followed by their ROK counterparts…

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We moved across the street to 8th Army Headquarters where there was a fascinating exhibit of Korean War photos on display…

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…and remembrances of the man being honored.  What is interesting about those stars is they are the same ones the General Eisenhower pinned on LTG Patton during WWII (Walker served under Patton).

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The Walton Walker statue waiting to be unveiled.  And after a very nice speech from American Ambassador Stephens…

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…General Walton appears in bronze.  (I know it’s a crappy picture, but I couldn’t get closer with all the brass and muckety-mucks milling about…I’ll get a better photo one day soon…promise!)
A great day to be in Korea!

Itaewon is a happenin’ place

A generally positive review about the ‘twon in an online mag called Busan Haps.  Now, Busan is about as far away from Itaewon as you can get in Korea without crossing water, but the linked article is from the “travel” section.  So, I guess that makes it ok.

Anyway, I might have a small quibble or two with some of the bar descriptions, especially as it relates to the purported clientele of these establishments, but it wasn’t full of the hate and scorn many folks have for my adopted hometown.  I did have to smile at the description of my favorite hangout, Dolce Vita:

For all you pool wizards and dart heads out there, the best two joints to venture into would have to be Bless U Bar and Dolce Vita.  There’s no point in even writing your name on the board if you’re not amazing at pool at Bless U Bar, and usually Dolce Vita as well.  Dolce Vita has 3 or 4 dart boards, so if you’re looking to start or get into a league, this is the place to be. It’s quite a trip when you first enter and see all these darts whiz by over your left shoulder; it almost feels like a bunch of archers practicing in front of a king from the middle ages.

Heh.

One of those nights

As far as Saturday nights go, last night was a pretty good one.  It commenced with a fine farewell party/dart tournament for Dan Orrico and Rod Rodriguez at, wait for it, Dolce Vita Pub.  The evening (for me at least) ending with a Korea victory over Greece in the opening round of the World Cup.
Some of us brought along some vittles to supplement the Dolce menu.  My contribution was pulled pork barbecue, slow roasted in the ol’ crock pot.  It seemed to go over well enough as indicated by a lack of leftovers.  Then again, there was a huge crowd.  28 teams in the doubles tournament which may be a record for Dolce.  Even though my mediocre darts resulted in a two and out for me and my partner, it took a couple of hours to be eliminated.  The tourney was still going strong when I departed the bar.

In addition to the large dart crowd, there was a small but vocal contingent of Koreans watching the football (soccer) game.  I’m no fan of the sport, but there was some strong energy pulsating in Seoul for the Red Devils last night and I couldn’t help but catch the buzz.  Long after I had retired to bed and well into the wee morning hours I could hear drunk Koreans celebrating (screaming loudly) as they meandered home through the streets of my normally quiet neighborhood.

Today Tom and Yuli Randolph are hosting a barbecue get together in honor of Rod and Dano.  We’ll be bringing some Galbi for the grill, watermelon and the pineapple upside down cake I’m fixin’ to bake.  Unlike last night, I intend to remember my camera so I can capture the highlights for posterity.

Yoja of the Week

Well, I’ve finally got around to watching the television series “Lost”.  I’m up to episode 20 of Season 1 thus far.  I’m going to reserve judgment till the story develops a little more (assuming it will).  Suffice to say up to this point, Ms. Kim Yun-jin is the best thing about the show…

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Anyway, thus far it’s been fun to see some of the stereotypes of Koreans portrayed on American television.  I’ve heard the two Korean characters will develop into more than caricatures as the series progresses. 

Another aspect I’ve enjoyed is that Lost was filmed in Hawaii and I’ve been spotting some of the places I visited during my vacation there this year.

 

Worst case scenarios…

Things have been pretty quiet here on the Korean peninsula.  Maybe too quiet.  Although there was a slight thrill Sunday morning.  I’m laying on the couch watching Season 4 of House when all the sudden this air raid siren goes off.  At first I thought it was coming from the TV, but that didn’t make sense.  So, I get up and go to the balcony looking for incoming artillery but it all seemed normal outside.  After a couple of minutes the siren stopped.  I’m told that Sunday was the Korean memorial day.  Well, geez.  I can think of better ways to recognize fallen war heroes than blasting an alarm during a period when tensions are running high with the whacko’s up north.  Ah well.

Anyway, Popular Mechanics  brings us the three things to fear should war break out in Korea.  Oddly enough, my dying is not among them (although I guess that is implied).

1.  North Korea already knows our war plan.  Hmm, no surprise there.  This country is thick with spies and hackers.  ROKDrop has a post up about the female spies who trade sex for secrets, like Won Jeong-hwa:

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She’s no Natasha, but…

2. North Korea uses its vast chemical weapon arsenal.  Well, I do have a USFK-issued gas mask in the closet.  Maybe I’ll even be at home if I ever need it.

3.  Flash floods become weapons.  Well, I’m kinda up on a hill, so of the three scenarios this is the one I could most likely “live” with the best.

Anyway, in all seriousness I’m not worried. Much.

80 days to go.

You gotta laugh…

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Ok, so maybe the banging of drums and rattling of sabres is nothing to take lightly.  War is hell and lives are at stake and all that.  Still, for sheer audacity and rhetorical flourish, you have to give the Gold to the NORKs.           

Here’s the official response from the Korean People’s Army (KPA) to the sanctions imposed by South Korean President Lee:

Important notice from the Korean People’s Army [KPA] General Staff: “Shall Smash, Without Mercy, ‘Countermeasures Against the North’ the Traitorous Gang Brought Forth”:

 

In a so-called “address to the people” on 24 May, traitor Lee Myung-bak declared all-out anti-Republic confrontation as a “national policy.” Then, top-level servant bastards of the puppet Ministries of National Defense, Unification, and Foreign Affairs and Trade unanimously began clinging to the realization of an already concocted manuscript of confrontation with fellow countrymen.

 

Such moves by the traitorous gang are acts of complete abrogation of the historic 15 June Joint Declaration, a joint achievement of the nation, and its practical program, the 4 October Declaration, and specially gross criminal acts of driving North-South relations into a state of war.

 

Inasmuch as the traitorous gang has dared to start making a clumsy fire of all-out confrontation against us, the KPA General Staff solemnly notifies that our revolutionary armed forces’ actual important measures  will be taken in response.

 

1. With respect to North-South cooperation and exchange, we will completely withdraw all military assurance measures that our army is supposed to implement.

 

For the present, we will begin reviewing closing the military communications liaison offices in the East and West Sea [Sea of Japan and Yellow Sea] Districts and completely cutting off overland passage related to the Kaeso’ng Industrial Complex.

 

2. Regarding the anti-Republic psychological warfare maneuvers the puppet military is attempting to resume, we will respond mercilessly across the entire front, as the commander of our army front’s central zone has already warned the enemy side.

 

3. [We] will completely nullify the bilateral agreement that was concluded to prevent a contingent clash in the West Sea of Korea.  In connection with this, [we] will completely stop using international maritime ultra-short wave walkie-talkies and will immediately cut off the communication line that was opened to handle an emergency situation.

 

4. An immediate physical strike will be inflicted upon an act of violating our side’s maritime demarcation line in the West Sea of Korea.

 

5. [We] will completely disallow the passage of the traitor gang’s naval vessels, aircraft, and other means of mobility through our territorial waters, territorial air, and territorial land.

 

6. We will strictly ban the traitorous group, including the puppet authorities, from coming in and out of the premises [kyo’ngnae] of our Republic.

 

7.  We will disclose to the end the identity of “the fabricated act” and “the smear act” as long as the act of blocking our National Defense Commission [NDC]’s inspection team continues.

 

The aforementioned measures are our revolutionary armed force’s first-stage response to the reckless anti-Republic confrontational maneuver of the traitorous gang who are confrontational fanatics and flunkeys nation-sellers.

The traitorous gang will fully realize how big a price they will pay for the consequence for having driven the 15 June Joint Declaration and 4 October Declaration to a complete rupture.

 

Opinions are like, er well, navels…

…everybody has one.

This guy speculates on what war would like should things take a worse turn here on the Korean peninsula.

A North Korean Attack: Though war would be catastrophic for both countries, South Korea would suffer the most in the first days of a full-scale conflict. Its capital of Seoul lies just 50 miles south of the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) — as big a misnomer as you will find, since the area is one of the most heavily militarized areas on the planet. On this de facto border, North Korea has amassed about 13,000 artillery pieces, rockets, missiles and other ordnance that can reach Seoul in a matter of minutes. Seoul, a city of 1 million, could be flattened; also at risk are the 28,500 American troops stationed in the country. Additionally, North Korea could release its dams and flood much of the South, writes Christopher Hitchens. There’s also its 1.2 million-member army to consider. And were North Korea to deploy nuclear and chemical weapons, the devastation would be much much worse.

Is he wrong?  Well, the fact that he says Seoul has a population of 1 million doesn’t inspire much confidence.  I have probably a million people living in my neighborhood (Seoul has well over 10 million citizens).  Now, Kim Jung-il could certainly rain some fire, death, and destruction down on our heads, but there ain’t no way he could flatten the city (unless his nukes are a lot bigger than what he’s tested thus far).

Still, it wouldn’t be pretty, that’s for sure.  It would also be an act of suicide for Mr. Kim and his regime.  I am of the opinion that Kim may be a maniac, but he’s not stupid.  The big wildcard in all of this will be where China comes down.  I haven’t seen many positive signs in that regard, but I can’t believe having the North initiate a war would be in China’s interests.  And the Chinese are cold, hard calculators who will likely protect their interests by prevailing on the North to back down.

But that’s just one navel gazer’s opinion…

UPDATE: Here’s another opinion perhaps more worthy of consideration.

What, me worry?

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So, as you may or may not have heard, tensions are rising to a seemingly fever pitch here on the Korean peninsula.  I don’t have any real insights into where this might go, although I obviously am hoping that the heated rhetoric doesn’t morph into artillery rounds raining down on my balding head.

The sinking of the Cheonan in South Korean waters was a bit more than the usual provocation we’ve come to expect from the idiots up North.  And the ROKs are blessed with an impressive leader in President Lee who isn’t going to let this act of war go unpunished.  But other than the sanctions and further isolation of Kim Jung Il and his cohorts, there’s nothing else short of war to be done.  And war would of course be disastrous.

So, Obama has told our military to be ready for any contingency.  Thanks for that advice Mr. President.  It’s kinda sorta what we do here on a daily basis anyway.

North Korea has responded by severing all ties to South.  An act akin to cutting the proverbial nose from your face.  Or more literally, biting the hand that feeds you.
So we shall see where this goes.  I’ve got 97 days left.  Here’s hoping I live that long.