About John McCrarey

Born and raised in southern California. My career exodus has taken me to Arizona, Oklahoma, Arkansas, South Carolina, Virginia, and Washington, DC. And as of 23 January 2005, Seoul, Korea. Married with 6 grown children (blended family). First grandchild is in the oven! I created this blog to document my adventures as an expat living and working in Korea. I'm also pretty confident that I will on occasion feel the need to express my views on current events and other matters I find of interest.

View from above

I rather doubt that there are many people who visit LTG (and there aren’t many period) who do not also read a meaningful and well-written blog like The Lost Nomad. But on the chance that someone missed it, here’s an image taken of the Earth at night:

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You will note that from this vantage point the Republic of Korea almost appears to be an island. That’s because our neighbors to the north are so bankrupt (financially and morally) that they lack the resources to provide adequate energy to light their cities.

Here’s a crappy zoom I did of the above photo to further illustrate the point:

koreanight.jpg

It is easily forgotten the difference that freedom and democracy makes in the lives of ordinary people (yeah, yeah, I know China is pretty well lit up, but China is another story for another day). Of course, lacking abundant electricity is the least of the problems of the average Joe in the DPRK. Starving in the dark just underlines the misery.

I guess I’m still thinking about the remains of those six soldiers recently returned from North Korea. Their sacrafice did make a difference for 44 million people living in peace and comparitive wealth. And the soldiers today who are all too frequently disparaged while serving in a land far from home are here for only one reason: to keep it that way. It’s a good thing to remember.

Eureka!

Last Saturday I lost my glasses. I looked all over the house for the damn things to no avail. I figured if they were at the house the cleaning ajumma would find them. Alas, it was not to be. I even went back to the last bar I had visited that night but no luck (they didn’t speak English there so I had to do that whole hilarious pantomime routine). Anyway, this morning they appeared out of the blue in the gap between my nightstand and the bed. A place I know I had looked for them at least twice. That’s the thing about losing your glasses, you need them to find them.

Yeah, I know this is without a doubt the most lame post I have ever written. Don’t hate me because my life is full of such wonder and excitement.

Actually, I have been wearing my three year old glasses all week. Other than having no depth perception and barely being able to read typeface on the computer monitor they still work fine.

Funny thing is I went 11-1 in dart legs this week and threw enough marks to move back into the top spot in my division. Hopefully I am out of my slump as we have the stretch run coming up and our team is 8 legs out of first. Now I just have to decide which glasses to wear Monday night.

On a topic that is more interesting than my eyewear (to me at least) I am hosting a small dinner party tonight. I am having the Korean friends who took me to the soju hut a couple of weeks ago over. Menu includes tossed salad with all the fixin’s, sweet taters, and grilled rib eye steak. Appetizers will be polish sausage (also cooked on the grill) and boiled shrimp. For dessert I am baking a carrot cake which I will serve with vanilla ice cream. My plan is that they will leave knowing why Americans are so fat.

For our fallen heroes

Today I had the honor of attending a very solemn and moving repatriation ceremony for the remains of six soldiers returned from North Korea this week. General B.B. Bell, Commander, United Nations Command/Combined Forces Command/United States Forces Korea, made the following remarks:

Fifty-seven years ago, in response to an unprovoked attack by North
Korea, twenty-one contributing nations sent tens of thousands of Servicemembers to the aid of the Republic of Korea.

In the three years of bitter fighting that followed, millions of civilians and military personnel lost their lives and the Republic of Korea was left with fractured families and destroyed infrastructure — but also with its freedom.

In the five decades since, this great nation has become a technologically advanced, world economic power with a modern democracy. The Republic of Korea is the envy of much of the world.

This is the reason we honor these heroes who lie before us today. It was their selfless service and ultimate sacrifice that saved this nation, giving the people of the Republic of Korea an opportunity to forge their destiny and achieve their dreams.

However forensics determines their nation of origin — the United States, Korea or other United Nations contributing nations — these Servicemembers were great patriots, rising to the call to defend liberty and justice in the face of aggression.

Today, we are honored and humbled to receive their remains. The word “repatriate” – to return to one’s own country – has a very special meaning for American Servicemembers, who today often spend many years overseas separated from their families. They have been promised that should they lose their lives in a foreign land, we will honor their sacrifice, keep faith with their fellow warriors and families, and bring them home. This morning for these warriors, we are keeping that promise.

It is also fitting that we give our deepest appreciation to our United Nations Command Servicemembers who continue to serve on the Korean peninsula in defense of the noble principles of liberty and democracy. Your presence is an enduring legacy to those who fought and those who lost their lives in securing this nation’s sovereignty. Your duty is testimony that freedom is not free and demonstrates your willingness to sacrifice to preserve our freedoms. Your selfless service is honorable and laudable and we all owe you a debt of gratitude.

Finally, to our gallant fallen warriors before us – we mourn your loss; we salute your sacrifice. Your heroic fight freed a nation and its people. It was just and proper. The Republic of Korea has honored your deaths by becoming a shining beacon of hope for all nations struggling for freedom and democracy. May your spirits now be comforted as you begin your final journey home. Our thoughts and prayers follow your journey.

Godspeed brave ones. May god continue to bless your souls. Thank you.

Also in attendance was Governor Bill Richardson of New Mexico who was part of the delegation who retrieved the bodies.

Each of the countries who make up the United Nations Command was represented at the ceremony. It was interesting to see the dress uniforms of the Aussies, Canadians, French, Swedes and others all in one place. I didn’t realize before today that even Colombia had a contingent in Korea.

After General Bell’s remarks, the soldiers were honored with a 21-gun salute, the playing of taps, and pall bearers from several nations carrying the caskets from the auditorium.

I have been to several Honor Guard ceremonies in my time here, but this was a very different experience. It really brought home the fact that so many made the ultimate sacrafice in defense of freedom. It is easy to forget as we make our way about this vibrant and fascinating country the price that was paid so that the people of the Republic of Korea might live in peace. This gift is the legacy of all who fought here and all that have followed to preserve what we all too frequently take for granted.

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I was proud and honored to bear witness to these brave soldiers that their deaths were not in vain.

They shall not grow old, as we that are left grow old…at the going down of the sun and in the morning, we will remember them.

–Lawrence Binyon
korean-war-memorial-ok.jpg

Korean War Memorial, Washington, DC

Spring has sprung

Well, today it is raining some but it has been pretty damn pleasant these days. Springtime in the land of the morning calm is definitely the prettiest time of the year. Jendalay and gaenalee are in bloom and the cherry blossoms are at their peak. Here’s a picture taken near my office on the Yongsan military base:

cherry.JPG

Ok, so I actually took this photo last spring, but they look the same this year, trust me. Now, with the yellow dust blowing in from Mongolia the sky is not usually that blue, but we do have our days.

There really is a lot to love about this country.

It’s all about the darts…

Sunday we played our makeup match with Jeckles from Gecko’s. Everyone played well and that resulted in us giving them a 15-4 spanking.

Last night we hooked up with the team from Hollywood Grill, FFOD. These guys have gotten to be our nemesis–not in a bad way–they are good sports and all, just they always seem to find what it takes to beat us. We came out of singles down 9-3 and wound up losing 11-8. I was proud of the guys for not going down without a fight, but we just couldn’t get the winning darts going last night.

On a personal note, I am starting to work out of my slump. I know I’m throwing better when the 5-marks and tons start coming, and I had a couple of each last night and several more on Sunday. I’m still way to inconsistent though and can’t quite figure out why that is. Nothing to do but keep on keeping on.

We probably had the most fun when the Bless U Blessed Bulls guys showed up after their match and we just threw some games for the hell of it. League games are very intense for me. I love the competition but I do tend to get wound up a little bit. Just relaxing and throwing for sport (and rounds of beer) is a nice way to relax and remember why we love the game. Now, I will admit that in my games with the Goat I am playing for pride as well, but still. The Goat and I teamed up in doubles later and we were unstoppable (ok, I only played the one game in doubles, but we done good).

So, it is coming down to crunch time. Take it Easy is clinging to second place and after next week we have three tough match-ups to finish the season: Alley Rats, Eberhardt, and Blessed Bulls. Then a single elimination tournament where the pressure is really on.

Yeah, its all good.

The future is comin’ on…

An item in OpinionJournal quotes some “experts” who believe our success against the al Qaeda terrorist network is a cause for concern about our long term security. Here’s a taste:

Our favorite, though, is the closing quote in the piece:

IntelCenter chief executive Ben Venzke said the chance of an al Qaeda attack on U.S. soil has grown based on the militant network’s increasing references to the American homeland in public messages.

“Our leading thinking is that we are closer now to an attempt at a major attack in the United States than at any point since 9/11,” Venzke said.

There is no denying Venzke is right. If an al Qaeda attack is in the future, then it is closer now than at any point since 9/11. Venzke has stumbled onto something profound: the linear and sequential nature of time.

There are other disturbing implications as well. If you survived 9/11–and this is true no matter who you are–you are more than five years closer to death now than you were then. Reuters should look into this aspect of the story. No doubt they can find some experts to explain that it’s President Bush’s fault.

Not to mention that today is the tomorrow you worried about yesterday. (Where did I read that? Must have been one of those daily inspiration calendars).

Anyway, when success is spun as failure by the MSM it is certainly a brave new world. Or 1984.

A hard days night

Today was my first day back in the office after a four day weekend. No, it was not a mini-vacation, it was sick leave to deal with a minor medical issue. No worries, all is well.

So I had the normal chore of catching up with email and the like, but thankfully nothing real stressful to deal with. I knew going in that I had to be at work for a teleconference with the Office of Personnel Management in DC at 2100. What I didn’t expect was a Video Teleconference from 2200-0100 with the Pentagon. Around midnight I figured out that what they were talking about didn’t affect our function, so I skated on out of there. Now I am home trying to unwind. The good thing is my boss said I could stay home till noon tomorrow. Woo Hoo!

In between I had my first level two Korean lesson. I am going to like this a lot more because I am getting one-on-one tutoring, which is what I need. Tonight we worked on double vowels and double consonants. There is apparently a distinction between many of these sounds, but damn, I am struggling to hear it. I don’t have Hangul software (yet) so I can’t show you the symbols, but let’s just say that we and wei sound the same coming out of my mouth at this point. Anyway, my tutor (a nice high school lad) thought my pronunciation was generally good and he didn’t seem as frustrated as I was at my inability to replicate the nuances in articulating those combinations.

Kevin from Hairy Chasms left a helpful comment on things I can do to work on my reading. Things like reading maps and menus Korean. A useful tip that I will incorporate into my learning activities. I have also started reading random signs and the Hangul versions of the subway stops. It does help with the pronunciation and builds confidence. I’m probably too hard on myself, but language acquisition doesn’t come easy for me. At least Spanish was familiar, but Korean is totally outside my realm of experience (yeah, yeah, I have been here two years, but mostly in Itaewon which is of course nothing like Korea).

I have been resisting writing in Hangul, prefering to Romanize my translations. I know, I know. But honestly, I can’t read my own writing and I think it helps me pronounce when I can visually see what I am trying to say. We’ll see.

Taking it to the next level

Last night I completed my first level in my ongoing effort to develop at least some ability to speak Korean. I know my “alphabet” and I can read Hangul now. Not that I know what the hell I’m reading means, but it is good to not be totally illiterate.

My level 2 text looks pretty interesting. I will be learning grammar and sentence structure. And the instruction will be more of a one-on-one format which should make it a little easier. I think my biggest problem is going to be understanding the spoken word. Well, practice, practice, practice is my plan.

What was lost has been found

Maybe. Finished up this months Challenge League last night with Grant and I taking 4 of 6 legs, good enough to clinch the championship. Still not where I want to be, but I did have a 7-mark, several 5-marks, and two ton-40s. Don’t know where those darts were Monday (or last Sunday when Grant and I went 0-6). Its a funny game.

This Sunday we will have the ending tournament and we will probably start the next round of Challenge League in a week. Craig, VJ, and Colin: I hope you guys can find the time to play. We have a lot of fun and it is a great way to get some really focused practice against a variety of players. Yeah, I know you are all busy and have family obligations, but even if you play all your games on Thursday we’d love to have you. That goes for any other dart players out there.

Leave a comment here if you are interested.

A full house beats 3 of a kind

I’m in a bit of a mid-season slump with the dart game these days. Sunday Grant and I lost six straight legs in Challenge League play cricket doubles. To their credit, Jim and Lonnie and then Mario and Jin took care of business, but still, losing sucks.

Last night in SIDL action we were playing the team from Shooters Bar. Mario and Cuatro are both military and because of the exercise they weren’t available for the match. We had 3 players, but it takes 4 to make a team. You can play with three, but in the vacant spot you play a “ghost” which is an automatic loss.

So we get to the bar (Friends, because Shooters is in an off limits area) and I ask a random guy sitting there if he wanted to throw some darts. He agreed, so we had our four. You know, at my age there are not many firsts left in life, but that was my first time picking up a guy in a bar. Hopefully my last as well.

Anyway, I’m up first and their guy takes the diddle, calls cricket and proceeds to throw a 5 mark on 20s. I answered with two pathetic 19s. Fortunately, the guy couldn’t hit a 19 to save his life, and I hit two four marks to get the points back. The point war was on, and we were both over 100 by the time we finished the 20s and 19s. So we played it tight after that, until he pointed the shit out of me on 15s. I was lucky enough to throw a 3BS (three single bulls) and then hit two more for the win.

The 01 game went down to the wire, but he hit the double out first. I took the diddle and called cricket and we had another nail biter that came down to me hitting enough bulls to close and make up the points to take the game and finish 2-1.

Jim dominated his opponent for a 3-0 win, and Lonnie followed up with a 2-1 victory. Vins, the guy I picked up played all right, but his opponent played better and got all three legs.

So, it was on to doubles. We were feeling pretty confident going in with a 7-5 lead. But Jim and Vins went down 0-3. I was teamed up with Lonnie for the cricket doubles and we really believed we would go 3-0 and win the match. Alas, it was not to be. We were both just enough off our games to lose. Kinda got snake bit, because one of the opponents couldn’t hit anything, except triples for points and double bulls for the win. Weird how that happens. So, we took a 0-3 drubbing and were pretty disgusted with ourselves.

Ah well, going in we thought we would be satisfied getting 5 legs with only 3 players. Vins lost all his games so it didn’t make a difference having him (although we really appreciated his willingness to fill the void). And we were in a position to take the match and failed to play up to our capabilities, so that’s how it goes. We just have to play better the rest of the way.

Next week we have our sister team from Dolce, the Sliders. Looking forward to that match. I just need to find my game between now and then.

In other news, I saw a movie Saturday: The Breakup. It was not as funny as the previews made it look to be, but Jennifer Anniston is easy on the eyes and the ending wasn’t typical Hollywood. I went with another Korean couple and afterwards they took me to a traditional Korean soju hut and got me drunk on my ass. Still, it was fun because it was different. I was the only foriegner in the joint and got a few stares, but what’s the fun in hanging out with westerners all the time anyway?

So that’s the story.

Subway

Had an interesting evening tonight. My realtor invited me to a dinner show at the Walker Hill Shearton. Her way of saying thanks for renewing my lease (and her commission). Also, I am not a pain in the ass for them as I tend to take care of problems directly with the landlord. She is trying to get the owner to pick up my internet fees as part of the lease. Don’t see why he would do that now that I’ve signed, but we shall see. I might start being a pain in the ass in retaliation if they don’t want to negotiate…

Anyway, the show was surprisingly good overall. During dinner we were treated to some traditional Korean dancing and music, including a great percussion performance and some fan dancing. Quite pleasing to watch. The food was about what you would expect at a dinner theatre, but I cleaned my plate anyway (steak and sweet potato). No idea what the price was because of course she picked up the tab. She mentioned wanting to go to 3 Alley Pub, so I told her I would reciprocate by taking her there some time. I’ll come out ahead on that deal for sure.

So, the main show was called “Subway”. The premise was you followed a subway through several stops in various cities and the performers did song and dance routines from Broadway productions set in that venue. Started in NYC, then Chicago, London, Seoul, Buenos Aires, and Rio de Janiero.

The performers were average for professionals (I’ve actually seen better in community theatre), but the stage props and settings were outstanding. I had seen the musical “Chicago” on Broadway, and the rendition of All That Jazz and Cell Block Tango were pretty disappointing by comparison. Still, they wore some damn sexy costumes so you take the good with the bad I suppose. For Seoul, they kinda wimped out and had some youngsters break dancing and then did some Abba numbers pretending it was a concert in Seoul. Talk about western cultural imperialism!

Ah well, it was free and it was different. And actually pretty entertaining for the most part. I’d give one thumb up and depending on what it actually costs to see the performance would recommend it as a change of pace.

On the passing of Cathy Seipp

A person I never met, but one who’s writing I admired. As she lay dying I was touched by the testimonials of her many friends and admirers. And I was reminded that to be truly loved is ultimately the greatest measure of success one can achieve in a lifetime.

Here’s a quote that I think captures her unique ability to cut to the heart of the matter in a concise and insightful manner that few writers ever master:

A society that allows Playboy is not a society that allows women to be stoned to death for adultery. Human nature being what it is, we’re probably stuck with either burkas or naked balloon breasts forever. I know which I prefer.—Catherine Siepp

Her good friend Moxie has a tribute here.

For what is it to die but to stand naked in the wind and to melt into the sun?

And what is it to cease breathing, but to free the breath from its restless tides, that it may rise and expand and seek God unencumbered?

Only when you drink from the river of silence shall you indeed sing.

And when you have reached the mountain top, then you shall begin to climb.

And when the earth shall claim your limbs, then shall you truly dance.

–khalil gibran

It’s a small world

I dropped into Debut the other night on my way home. Just one guy sitting at the bar. Before I could take my coat off, he bought me a beer. I thanked him and he said “how’s it going, John”.

I asked if we had met, and he said “no, but I have been reading your blog from day one”. That always trips me out when it happens. But it got weirder. He also worked at the U.S. Department of Education before he came to Korea. He got here a few months before I did. I don’t think we ever met at ED, but he worked with a guy I spent a lot of time with. Anyway, he knew my whole story, all the ups and downs of my experience here almost as well as I did.

I didn’t have much time to chat, but I left him an open invite to email me (or comment here) if he wants to get togehter sometime for a few drinks and talk of the old days.

It was a real cool experience though.

Who’s on first?

The other day I was talking to a Korean woman about something or other on the military base. She responded in Korean “wie” (why?), but I was hearing the English “where”, so I said Yongsan. So, she kept saying wie and I kept repeating Yongsan. Not quite as funny as this famous Abbott and Costello routine, but my ignorance of basic Korean is so astounding you just gotta laugh sometimes.

And that’s the way it was

No darts tonight, Jeckles from Gecko’s asked for a postponement because they were short players this week. Will have to schedule a make-up match, but it will be in a couple of weeks. One of our players is a soldier involved in the annual RSOI exercise.

Saturday night I wanted to avoid the St. Paddy’s day crowd in Itaewon so I went to a Sojo house in Hannam-dong with a friend. Had a couple of bottles of soju and and a shell soup (little crabs in broth). Tasty enough, but my limited chopsticks skills were severly taxed trying to pull those little suckers from the shell. Then we did the norebang and later wound up closing Dolce at 0330.

Yesterday I finally did the pedicure thing on post. My heals were severely callused, with these huge fissures, cracks, and chasms that sometimes bleed and make walking difficult. The poor girl assigned to me was quite shocked at the condition of my feet but her limited English skills prevented her from fully articulating her obvious disgust. She did say “you should pay double”. I guess she was kidding because I just paid the regular price ($20). An hour later my feet looked much better and I was amazed at the pile of dead skin on the floor. They told me I need to come back next week for further work, and then come on a regular basis thereafter. I felt so ashamed that I gave the pedicure girl a W20,000 tip.

And that was the extent of my exciting weekend.

Should I stay or should I go?

Hell, I am staying. Looks like I made it over the hump at least….

You are 74% ready to get out of Korea

 

You have them figured out. You know it is a 5,000 year-old shell game and there is no pea. You are already over the hump and can probably remain in Korea indefinitely without any permanent damage. (don’t make fun of the ESL teachers too vociferously because they still buy in to it all)

The “Is It Time To Get Out of Korea?” Quiz
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Hat Tip: I’m A Seoul Man