Wrapping it up

I fly out in the morning, so here’s a photo essay of my final hours in Saigon.

Monday night on Walking Street, the bar area in the “backpacker” district. Walking street is a bit of a misnomer, given that there was still plenty of motorbike traffic to avoid…
This sign gave me a chuckle, although it was not enough to lure me in…
I reckon I’ll miss Saigon some, but probably not the Miss Saigon…
Truth be told, I didn’t really like the Walking street experience at all. It seemed like every bar was trying to out blast their neighbor’s bullshit music. Just give me that ole time rock-n-roll! Pretty busy for a Monday evening and it was obvious that the bars were going for a younger crowd. I don’t fit that demographic anymore nor do I want to…
Hmm, what should I eat?
Ah, this will do! Yeah, I had a burger and fries in Vietnam. Man does not live by Pho alone!
So much to learn, so little time…
An oyster bar snack, then bedtime…
Up early this morning and after the hotel buffet, I headed out for my walk. Wound up down by the Saigon river.
This is a tough city to walk in. Most streets have sidewalks but they serve mostly as motorcycle parking areas. It was a nice break to have an unobstructed path to walk and no need to dodge traffic…
Enjoying the Saigon River views…
Some type of government building. The red star Vietnamese flag and the omnipresent hammer and cycle are testaments to the communist heritage of the united Vietnam…
And yet, free enterprise abounds as evidenced by the Ho Chi Minh stock exchange…
And religion is openly practiced as well, at least the nuns I saw weren’t shy about parading about in their habits…
Remnants of the war to expel the imperialist invaders and reunite the people of Vietnam, as seen at the Ho Chi Minh museum.
The worst part of Saigon? Well, 7 million motorbikes make walking around a hazardous undertaking…
The best part of Saigon? Well, I’ve got to say that the beauty of the Vietnamese women certainly rivals that of the Korean females I’ve so dearly loved…
And after much exploration and trial and error, I can declare the In Sai Gong rooftop bar as my favorite watering hole. Although I never did have a water there…
Here’s a job I could never do. Gave me the willies just watching them swing around up there like Spiderman…
After all that walking, I was ready for some lunch. Chose this Vietnamese place around the corner from my hotel. Most expensive place I’ve eaten at this trip, but why not splurge and live a little? I am on vacation after all.
Started with some honey garlic pork ribs that were quite delicious…
Then I had half a roasted chicken that was possibly cooked (there were scorch marks on the bottom) and obviously served in this bamboo tube. Never seen that before. However it was prepared, it came out tasting most excellent.
And when you order half a chicken, you get half a chicken. Including this foot. None for me, thanks!

Still a few nighttime hours to fill. Plan is to see Alex and the boys play darts then say my goodbyes. Probably head over to In Sai Gong for a final cold beer as well. Then it’s off to the airport at 0630 for my 0930 flight to Manila.

I’m glad I finally made it to Saigon. And even more glad it wasn’t as a soldier.

UPDATE: Well, turns out I was also “wrapping it up” back in November, 2015. I also had no idea that Jee Yeun would be wrapping up the marriage just a month later. Still hurts.

On the streets of Saigon

Winding it down on my penultimate day in Vietnam. I’m still enjoying walking about and exploring my little part of the city during the day, and of course, the bars at night.

Speaking of walking, I intended to Hash yesterday with the local Saigon kennel. Walked over to the meeting place and arrived early. Then it started pouring down rain. Well, I had been on the fence about participating to begin with. I wasn’t comfortable being bused out of town and getting lost or something, then missing the ride back. Yeah, I’m a wimp. The rain gave me a good excuse to bail and I took it.

Here’s some random pictures from my journey I haven’t posted yet:

Met up with a couple of friends last night at a bar with a happy hour special that couldn’t be beat. All the Tiger draft you could drink between 3-7 p.m. for 145,000 dong ($7). I didn’t start until 4:30 and still got my money’s worth…
The bar also featured live music from a Filipino band. Wish they had a sexy Pinay singing though…
Yesterday I went to a restaurant for lunch run by a guy from South Africa. I had some beef stew and it was actually awesome…
As I mentioned in yesterday’s “foodie” post, I sometimes just snack at the bar instead of having a proper meal. These mussels were a tasty treat…
And I ordered a side of kimchi to go with them and it was also quite tasty.
Quaffed a few brews in here the other night. Barkeep didn’t speak any English, but we had some fun with Google translate.
One of my walks took me to Walking Street, which is where all the backpackers seem to congregate. Lots of hostels and small hotels. And plenty of bars like this one. I do enjoy sitting outside and watching the world pass by when I’m having a cold alcoholic beverage.
My favorite bar so far though is the Sai Gone rooftop bar. And this cutie is the sweetest bargirl I’ve met this trip…

Life is good.

Food for thought

I’m going to say right up front that I’m no “foodie”. In fact, I’m not all that adventurous when it comes to exploring local cuisine in general and street food in particular. So, why am I doing a post about the food I’ve eaten thus far during my Vietnam adventure?

Kevin Kim that is. One of my faithful readers and commenters truly is a foodie and has expressed interest in how I like the food here.

Let’s eat!

This morning’s breakfast. My hotel has a free buffet and it’s not bad. They have an egg station where you can eat more traditionally, but where’s the fun in that? That’s a nice clam and corn soup in the bowl. Curried chicken and spiced fish, bacon, watermelon and a tasty roll. I didn’t like the fish, the only “traditional” Vietnamese dish on my plate. It was too hot for my taste.
They also have a juice station, but I’ll be damned if I’m going to drink this! Yeah, yeah, I’ve licked my share over the years, but you’ve got to draw the line somewhere…

Last night, my pal Alex invited me out to his favorite restaurant for some leg of lamb.

I guess one of the last vestiges of the French colonial days is the abundance of tasty baked breads.
The meal also featured a tasty Greek salad.
About the only time I eat lamb is in a kebab, so I’m no expert. But this had a unique flavor which I assume was a Vietnamese twist to spicing. It was really good.
No one had a bone to pick about the meal…
…right Alex?

The best meal I’ve had so far though was the lunch served during the Mekong river tour I took on Friday. It was also probably the most traditional Vietnamese fare I’ve had on this trip.

I have absolutely never seen fish served in this fashion. When I first set down at the table I thought it was just a decoration. It was quite tasty.
Some of the other dishes served, including meat on a stick, spring rolls, and those yellow fish-eye looking things.

Now one Vietnamese diet staple is the bahn mi sandwich. I think I saw them featured on an old Anthony Bourdain episode and I’ve wanted to try one since I arrived. Oddly enough, when I asked hotel staff for a good bahn mi restaurant, I was told the best ones were from the street vendors. Go figure. Anyway, after my morning walk yesterday, I brought one home:

Decisions, decisions. I went with the pork… Oh, if you are curious, the dollar buys 23,000 dong at current exchange rates. So these sandwiches are relatively inexpensive. It felt good cashing in those Ben Franklin’s and walking out of the bank with some big dong! *ahem*
My bahn mi chef hard at work…

Here’s how Wikipedia describes the bahn mi:


A typical Vietnamese sandwich is a fusion of meats and vegetables from native Vietnamese cuisine such as chả lụa (pork sausage), coriander leaf (cilantro), cucumber, pickled carrots, and pickled daikon combined with condiments from French cuisine such as pâté, along with chili and mayonnaise.[6] However, a wide variety of popular fillings are used, from xíu mại to ice cream. In Vietnam, sandwiches are typically eaten for breakfast or as a snack; they are considered too dry for lunch or dinner.[7]

Here’s how mine looked:

It was quite tasty, although I would have liked more meat. At Subway I always ordered double meat, an option I was unable to request given the language barrier…

Dining out has kind of been hit or miss. Usually drink until hungry, then either eat at the bar or pop into a nearby restaurant. Sometimes I’m not even sure what’s on offer. Stopped into this place the other night with some mates, and it was almost like being back in Korea, but without kimchi.

Yep, grilled meats!
And this seafood stew was quite good as well…

And about the only other Vietnamese delicacy I’ve had thus far is a soup called Pho.

Looks like this and is also quite tasty. Although the one I had was chicken and there were more noodles than meat. Especially good after some hard beer drinking.


Phở or pho[) is a Vietnamese soup consisting of brothrice noodles (bánh phở), herbs, and meat – usually beef (phở bò), sometimes chicken (phở gà).[4][5] Pho is a popular street food in Vietnam[6] and served in restaurants around the world.

And there you have it, a post about food. I’ve been a bit more adventurous in trying the local brews.

But don’t get me started on that.

A touristy day

Did an all day tour yesterday, featuring the Cu Chi tunnels and the Mekong river delta area, both of which are about an hour and a half from Saigon. I do enjoy travel and seeing new places and things, but I don’t like being a tourist. Or to be more precise, I don’t enjoy guided tours much. Yesterday was a prime example of why.

Got picked up at the hotel as scheduled at 7:30, then drove a ways across town in heavy traffic to pick up more tourists. When everyone was on board a bit after 8:00 we headed south. Our tour guide was a 20-something Vietnamese man who said his name was “Laughing”. His English was almost understandable. He seemed very proud of his country and there is nothing wrong with that of course. But my first red flag of the day was when we pulled into a small factory where traditional Vietnam paintings made from eggshells and seashells were manufactured. Laughing told the government built the factory to enable area residents who had suffered birth defects after American use of poison gas during the war. I assumed he meant Agent Orange. Throughout the day, Laughing never missed an opportunity to regurgitate the anti-American propaganda he’d been fed his whole life.

Anyway, the factory was NOT part of the tour package and it was only mildly interesting to see the process used by the workers in creating their art. And surprise, surprise the guide led us into a large showroom full of completed objects available for our purchase. For the first of many times I muttered “this is bullshit”.

In due course we made on way onward to the Cu Chi tunnels that had been instrumental in the North’s attacks on the South throughout the war. It was a pretty impressive engineering fete, no question about it. Laughing’s commentary about the means and methods used to kill the American invaders got old pretty fast though. I found myself biting my tongue to avoid asking what about the South Vietnamese Army troops, who far outnumbered the Yanks, were as fun to kill as well. Anyway, you get the idea. And I acknowledge that the victor gets to write the history of the war in the manner of his choosing. Hell, I was a vocal opponent of the war back then, but something about Laughing’s gleeful stories about how the wise Viet Cong lured the foolish Americans into their gruesome traps was off-putting. I was glad to finally depart for the Mekong portion of the tour.

We stopped for lunch along the way and I’ll have to give credit where it is due, it was a damn fine meal. I’m going to do a “foodie” post tomorrow, so I’ll save that story and photos until then.

The Mekong was disappointing as well, or to be fair, not what I expected. I was envisioning a river cruise, instead we boarded a derelict river boat and went to the other side. Upon arrival, we were served a honey tea and some banana chips. Both were quite good. Then Laughing came around with a beehive and talked about how the honey was used in several “miracle” products to improve health and skin. And wouldn’t you know it? Those products just happened to be available for purchase. I thought now that is real B.S. (bee shit). I did buy some overpriced banana chips which were quite tasty.

Next we walked a bit up the river to a place where we were treated to some traditional Vietnamese music. I’m sorry, the Vietnamese spoken language is even more grating on the ears than Chinese. At least to me. And when sung it sounds like high pitched screeching. The instruments were twangy but not unpleasant however. Tip boxes were conveniently brought around to our tables and of course I contributed. After all, the did stop singing and that was a behavior worth rewarding!

We then walked some more, boarded golf carts for a bit, then walked through some yards (felt like Hashing almost), and then boarded some canoe like things for a ride down a canal and back to the riverside. We were encouraged to tip the boat rowers, and hell, they deserved it managing to move our fat asses downstream.

Once back on the river shore we were given a demonstration of how coconut candy was made. Didn’t much care about that, although the sample was tasty enough. And of course, they had some for sale. No thanks!

Back on the boat at last and we were provided some coconut juice (still in the shell) to enjoy. Then we boarded the van for the two hour ride back to Saigon, where we arrived at 6:00 p.m. It was a long day of touring and it took several hours of beer drinking last night to wash the taste out of my mouth. Here’s the photos:

A tunnel. I went into one but didn’t stay long. It required crawling around on my hands and knees to get through. No thanks!
One of the booby traps used to kill or maim American soldiers. No mention of the South Vietnam troops though.
Laughing took great pleasure in describing the way these traps caused painful injuries made worse by trying to escape.
More traditional killing machines were also on display…
By the end of the tour I was ready to kick some Viet Cong ass, not withstanding my opposition to the war…
An hour and a half later we stopped at this rest area for lunch. Nicest rest area I’ve ever seen and the food was quite good.
We finally arrived at the Mekong river…
And boarded this piece of shit for a river ride.
That’s Laughing describing how clean and wonderful the Mekong waters are, despite the brown color.
If you say so…
The bees that shit to make the honey that makes the miracle cures that just happened to be on sale…
Then it was time for a pain in the ears. Not saying they weren’t talented, just not to my liking.
Down this creek we were destined to travel…
Thankfully, we had two locals to do the paddling…
That would be me back aboard our river yacht enjoying some coconut juice.
And then a two hour ride back to Saigon. I’m told there are 7 million motorbikes in the city and I believe it…
I’m not sure what it is about a Vietnamese gal on a bike that trips my triggers. Oh wait, maybe she’s right!
Finished the night with beers and music from a Filipino band. Much easier on my old man ears, that’s for sure.

Alright, dinner plans tonight and hopefully something worthwhile to add to my foodie post tomorrow. Stay tuned!

First impressions

So far, so good. Still feeling my way around Saigon/HCMC, but I rather like it. In fact, Vietnam is now ahead of Cambodia as a “Plan B” option should life in the Philippines not work out. Saigon (I prefer that name and will use it henceforth) is comparatively clean (isn’t everywhere compared to the PI?), modern, and bustling. I have never in my life seen so many damn motor scooters! I’m pressed for time this afternoon, so let’s let the photos do the talking.

DAY 1: Nice airport, only hold up was the visa process took about 30 minutes, but sailed through immigration/customs. Hotel transportation was there waiting and whisked us to the Lotus Central hotel.

It is a clean and functional 8 story hotel and I’m very comfortable here so far. Around 50 bucks a night.
Room is smallish, bed is comfortable, wifi works well.
Seeing this put a smile on my face. I do miss my bidet days…
Up on the roof is this lovely swimming pool which I’ve not used and probably won’t. In fact, I haven’t seen anyone else using it either…
The rooftop also affords beautiful views of the city like this one. This is similar to the view from my room, only 2 floors down.
Another shot of the Saigon skyline…
My first meal in Vietnam was this chicken dish for lunch. Big bag of fries came with it. It was in this back alley cafe near my hotel where I enjoyed street side dining…
And my first Vietnamese beer.

I did a quick walk around the neighborhood, then had to get ready for a meetup with some old friends from my Seoul days who live here now. I had an address and a Grab driver dropped me off at said address. But there was no bar to be seen there. So I walked over to the bar district and started asking other bar patrons where Shooters bar might be. Most didn’t know or gave me wrong directions. Finally, an American in a bar was able to give me specific detailed guidance on reaching my destination. Which took me right back to where the Grab car had left me. What the hell? About that time my friend Alex arrived.

He apologized for the confusion and pointed up to the 3rd floor. I still didn’t see it as the bar has absolutely no signage. We walked into what looked like an office lobby and took an elevator upstairs.

It’s a tiny place, even smaller than Alley Cats, my local darts venue in the PI. Very narrow, but has 4 dart boards with computerized scoring. Actually very nicely done.

I got drafted to play with Alex’s team in a league match against the top rated team in Saigon. We got our asses kicked, but I did manage to win a best of 5 singles match 3-1. So, I can add Vietnam to the countries in which I’ve played competitive darts (USA, Korea, Japan, Thailand, Cambodia, Philippines).

And it was of course really great catching up with my old mates John (on the left) and Alex.
After darts I walked back to the hotel. A little drunk but not hungry enough to eat here (yet).
Settled for nice bowl of chicken pho at a place near the hotel. Sorry the pic is so shitty. Maybe I was drunker than I remember.

Day 2: Took a good long walk in the city to see what I could see. Saw the Ho Chi Minh museum with some captured American tanks and planes out front and thought about having a looksee, but changed my mind thinking I’d find the actual war museum I’d heard about. I didn’t though.

There was this cool tree though…

I guess snapping that photo tagged me as a tourist because the vendors descended upon me. One guy actually started “repairing” my shoes with glue. I’m like WTF, no thanks! But he kept right on. Then he untied my shoe and that was enough, I just walked away.

A Saigon street. Those cycle and hammer banners are everywhere…
A monument to some past hero I suppose. Crossing streets here is insane for a pedestrian. I read somewhere that you are suppose to just keep your stride and pace as you cross and the motorbikes and cares will avoid you. I tried that and I guess it worked, or at least I wasn’t hit. Later I crossed with some locals and I noticed that they did in fact slow down to let cars and bikes go past. Geez, it’s a mystery how anyone lives to tell the tale of crossing some of these busy highways. Heh, I guess I just did though, didn’t I?
Made it to the banks of the Saigon river. I’m still considering taking one of these “water buses” while I’m here, but haven’t yet. Tomorrow I’m doing an all day tour to the Mekong river delta…
Needed some liquid refreshment and spied this rooftop bar name Sai Gone. Cold beer and hot waitresses! I was the only customer for awhile…
Enjoyed “Cheap Charlies” like views, although the street action featured many young Vietnamese women instead of the old men of Barretto….

Met an American couple from California enjoying their honeymoon and shared some beers with them. I’m now Facebook friends with the wife! It started raining hard about the time I was planning to leave, so what could I do? Stay for more beer of course! Hey, I’m on vacation!

It was back to Sai Gon that night where I expected to meet some Hashers. I didn’t see any. Later as one guy was leaving he saw my Hash attire and said I could join them for a run on Sunday. Meet up at the Caravelle hotel. Let’s see if I can find it.

Very drunk end to the day, but once again I successfully found my way back home to the hotel. Day 3 report will have to wait as I have plans for more explorations in the bar district tonight and need to prepare.

Peace out!

Good morning, Vietnam!

Arrived safely and without incident. Got checked into my hotel room, which is quite nice for the price. Now I’m going to hit the mean streets of Saigon and do some exploring.

First impressions: It’s a comparatively clean city. I haven’t seen anything like the poverty that is rampant back home in the Philippines. Traffic is crazy but somehow it works, like a mad dance or something. Oh, and the women are quite gorgeous. They appear sweet and innocent, at least from a distance. Of course, I’ll need to investigate further.

I heard about the great food choices here in Vietnam. And they were right! Right outside baggage claim I find this:

Kevin Kim asked for lots of food pictures…here’s the first!

Just kidding, I’m holding out for some real food. Okay, time to get out there and have a look see.

Packing it in

Busy as a bee getting it all together for my next adventure. Completed my paperwork for the visa on arrival processing, did my Philippines Air check-in and printed out my boarding pass, and of course packed my suitcase.

I have a 6:55 a.m. flight to catch in Manila and my driver suggests we leave Barretto at 0100. Between now and then I’ve got a Hash to participate in and then hopefully a few hours sleep before hitting the road.

Forty-six years ago the last place I wanted to be on Earth is where I now happily choose to visit and explore. I guess the difference is that I have the choice. Back in 1973 you might say I won the lottery–a lottery to determine who would be called to serve (drafted) in Uncle Sam’s military endeavors. And also in 1973 the draft was ended (one month before I turned 18). At the time you might say it felt like I had dodged a bullet. I actually came to regret not volunteering for military service, but that’s another story for another day.

And now at long last Vietnam is indeed my immediate destiny. I’m looking forward to seeing what I missed, without all the gunfire, rockets, and bombing of course. As close as I’ll get to that violence is a planned excursion to the war museum.

And of course I’ll be sharing all the excitement from the trip right here on LTG. Stay tuned!


We met as soul mates
On Parris Island
We left as inmates
From an asylum
And we were sharp
As sharp as knives
And we were so gung ho
To lay down our lives

We came in spastic
Like tameless horses
We left in plastic
As numbered corpses
And we learned fast
To travel light
Our arms were heavy
But our bellies were tight

We had no home front
We had no soft soap
They sent us Playboy
They gave us Bob Hope
We dug in deep
And shot on sight
And prayed to Jesus Christ
With all of our might

We had no cameras
To shoot the landscape
We passed the hash pipe
And played our Doors tapes
And it was dark
So dark at night
And we held on to each other
Like brother to brother
We promised our mothers we’d write


And we would all go down together
We said we’d all go down together
Yes we would all go down together

Remember Charlie
Remember Baker
They left their childhood
On every acre
And who was wrong?
And who was right?
It didn’t matter in the thick of the fight

We held the day
In the palm
Of our hand
They ruled the night
And the night
Seemed to last as long as six weeks
On Parris Island

We held the coastline
They held the highlands
And they were sharp
As sharp as knives
They heard the hum of our motors
They counted the rotors
And waited for us to arrive


And we would all go down together
We said we’d all go down together
Yes we would all go down together

Sloppy seconds

A second place finish in darts last night. Not bad considering my partner Jerlyn is pretty much a rookie. Friday night had a similar outcome, except that after coming back through the loser’s bracket to play the team that put us there, we all agreed to just call it a tie, split the pot 50-50, and take our drunken asses home.

Everyone’s a winner!

In other “news”…

The new Divimart opened yesterday. There was an insane traffic jam on the highway. Made walking more perilous than normal. Idiots were driving on the shoulder (even the unpaved portions) like it was a traffic lane. Us pedestrians had to avoid cars and scooters as best as we were able. Kind of pissed me off, but I used my mantra to calm myself down. Some.

I don’t have much else, but let me just dump some stuff I’ve found on Facebook and my wanderings around the internets…

Over in Thailand there was an unusual story of a foreigner fleecing a poor local. I mean, that’s pretty fucked up. The Thai local was a street food vendor. What’s worse than stealing from the poor? It’s almost always the other way around. I’ve been scammed a few times myself. You know, helping out a “friend” in need with a loan, never to be repaid. I mean, I get it. When you are living day-to-day and hand-to-mouth paying a debt to a “rich” foreigner is not going to be a priority. The shocking thing to me was that they didn’t even bother to give me an excuse, just broke off all contact. And these were people I had known for years. I’m obviously a horrible judge of character. So maybe I got lucky having dishonest people removed from my life. I’ll trust to Karma to extract a form of retribution on their lying asses as payment in full. Good riddance!

Yep.

Three years ago I was putting on the last suit I ever expect to buy. Tailor-made of course!

“Girls go crazy for a sharp dressed man”. Or so I’ve been told.

Speaking of women, this was my gal three years ago (thanks for reminding me Facebook):

I took Eun Oke to visit my office and let her try out the Director’s chair. I fell in love with her despite all the warning signs. Did I learn from it? Well, one year later it was Loraine’s turn to fuck me over…

Also seen on FB today was this bulletin board posted in an American schoolhouse:

is’nt it a shame that our kids are failing?

Speaking of language, I had never thought of this before:

It’s a little queer for sure…

I’ve always admired creative problem solving:

I may need to keep this in mind if my beer belly keeps growing…

Although my breakfast this morning at Sit-n-Bull wasn’t exactly low carb either:

Don’t give me any shit about it. I only ate half of that shingle…
Yep, pretty much every single day. Well, night. I try to avoid drinking before 5:00 p.m.

And finally, this is the second time I’ve used “sloppy seconds” as a post title. Back in April 2014 I also finished second in a darts tournament. And afterwards went out for a nice samgyeopsal dinner at my favorite place in Itaewon. With my wife, her daughter, and some friends. The next day we dined at Tabom Brazil with the esteemed Kevin Kim.

It never ceases to amaze me how everything in life can change. Not always in a good way, but we find a way to survive. Well, it feels more like dying and being reborn, if you get my meaning. Either way, it’s good to be alive! Let’s see what happens next.


Oh, this lunch break is gonna take all afternoon,
And half the night.
Tomorrow mornin’, I know there’ll be hell to pay,
Hey, but that’s all right.
I ain’t had a day off now in over a year.
My Jamaican vacation’s gonna start right here.
If the phone’s for me,
You can tell ’em I just sailed away.

And pour me somethin’ tall and strong,
Make it a “Hurricane” before I go insane.
It’s only half-past twelve but I don’t care.
It’s five o’clock somewhere.