Not quite paradise

Went to sleep in Paradise and woke up this morning in Paradise, but things just aren’t quite right here anyway. Still no power at the house, which is making my final preparations for the trip a lot more complicated. My e-visa for entry to Cambodia arrived by email, but I can’t print it out. Same with my onward ticket for my expected return to this lovely land. Hopefully, I’ll have power restored at some point today.

It’s Hash Monday, and it is still windy and rainy outside. I’m going to show up, but I don’t think I’m going to tempt fate by leaving the pavement today. This will be my 156th consecutive run with the SBH3, and that streak ends after this week. I hope I never have anything approaching that number again–I need to get back to my original retirement plan of traveling every three months or so. Although preparing for this trip has been such a pain in the ass that I may have to rethink whether the joy of getting away is worth it. I’m sure it will get easier when it becomes more routine.

Speaking of Cambodia, there’s a website I’ve been following for several years called Stickman Bangkok. As the name implies, it focuses on expat life in Bangkok specifically and Thailand in general. And yes, most of that focus is on the bar scene. So, it was somewhat surprising to see this entry regarding Phnom Penh today:

Across the border in Cambodia, Phnom Penh has always been known as an edgy place and for some, that’s part of the attraction. At the same time it always felt like if you were street-smart and didn’t do anything stupid then you should be ok. Word is that things have changed a bit – there is more street crime including pickpockets, and even muggings. A Bangkok bar manager who recently spent time in Cambodia was surprised when hotel staff suggested he take a tuk-tuk after dark and urged him not to walk alone at night. They also said he should carry no more cash than he needs for that night and leave valuables in his hotel room. (The first thing I thought when I heard that is that they’re setting you up to rip you off themselves!) They also said that if you must take your mobile phone, keep a close eye on it and don’t put it down on a bar table or counter top, lest it be snatched. And if you’re using your mobile phone, be aware of your surroundings. Some folks have had their fancy phone snatched while they were using it, the junkie who snatched it dashing away like Usain Bolt, never to be seen again. He was also told to consider avoiding the night market, dark streets and especially to keep an eye out for junkies. It doesn’t end there. Apparently there is a scam in the $5 massage shops where punters claim their money is switched to fake dollar notes while they’re in the middle of a massage. This is a problem in the cheaper places and not in the bigger, better, more upmarket massage outlets / spas. It should be noted that Cambodia has stopped dealing in $1, $2, $5 bills so you get lumbered with the local currency, Riel, in change. To be clear, these smaller denominations are all still accepted if you have them, but don’t expect to receive them back in change. Word is that Phnom Penh was actually safer in the early, so-called dodgy days. It’s not just visitors but locals who are victims. That’s when you know it’s bad. If you visit Phnom Penh at this time, keep a very close eye on your valuables.

That’s not exactly inspiring news. Still, it’s a good reminder to maintain situational awareness wherever you are. On my previous trip to PP a few years ago, a masseuse I brought back to my room stole $100 from my pocket while I was taking a shower (that she suggested). Life’s lessons can be harsh at times, but that’s the price of an education.

So, my last night on the town in Barretto for a while went down like this:

I baked brownies (luckily, I have a gas stove) and bought some takeout food from the Jewel restaurant (lasagna, chicken wings, chicken fingers) for the Hideaway girls.

Joy getting her bite on.
The Hideaway girls were in costume. This is Joy being a witch.

After Hideaway, I paid a visit to the lobby of the Paradise hotel, located between Wet Spot and Sit-n-Bull. It’s a small place, with, I think, eight rooms upstairs above the bar. I had stayed there briefly once or twice before. I had a 50% discount coupon for a room there, and given the uncertainty of the power being restored, I decided to hedge my bets by having a room to retreat to if necessary. The problem was there was no one behind the counter and no one to ask about a booking. Wet Spot wasn’t open yet, so I went to The Green Room. My waitress didn’t know anything about it but went to see what she could find out. A few minutes later, she came back with a room key. Talk about service!

Once Wet Spot opened, I went to pay the cashier there for the room. With my discount, it came to a whopping 650 pesos ($12). So, with my insurance secured, I headed down the highway to Snackbar to help Anne celebrate her birthday.

When I arrived at Snackbar, it was lit by candlelight (it’s on the same power grid as my house), but right as I sat down, the lights came on. Naturally, I took credit for the restoration of power. I checked with my domestic helper to confirm my house was also lit, and she said the lights had come back on, and then she heard a transformer explode, and things went dark again. Just my luck.

Anne and her cake from me.
Part of the party crowd. Snackbar was packed again last night.
Jenn is on the left, and Lydell is on the right. I sensed some tension between these two (I was buying them both drinks). Could be I’ll have to pick one or the other to share my affections.

When it was time to depart, I took a trike home and had him wait while I gathered up my laptop, phone charger, and a change of clothes. Then he triked me back to the Paradise hotel. I set about plugging everything in to recharge and discovered that my laptop has a three-pronged plug, and I had neglected to bring the adapter. Then I noticed the airconditioner had a three-prong recepticle. And now I know the internet is more important to me than cool air. It was also a good reminder to pack my universal plug adapters–I don’t recall what the outlets take in Cambodia.

With my electronics being restored to life, I decided to venture downstairs for some more beers entertainment. I wanted to reward the waitress at The Green Room for helping to secure my room, so that’s what I did with lady drinks and a pizza for her and her co-workers to enjoy.

If a Filipina is doing the ordering, it is almost always going to be a pineapple-laden Hawaiian pizza. It was good, though.

Then it was back upstairs to sleep it all off and hope for a better day to come. Alas, it was still blowing rain this morning.

Looking up the highway from my balcony…
And looking down the road. At least my breakfast venue was right next door.
It had been quite some time since I enjoyed some French toast with a sausage side.

After my meal, I packed up my belongings and got a trike home, only to discover the power was (and still is) out. Not a damn thing I can do about it, though.

Everything I’d hoped to get done today will have to wait. I’m sure I’ll be in no condition for anything but sleep after the Hash, even if the power has been restored. My flight tomorrow is at 10 p.m., and my driver will pick me up for Manila at 3:00. It’s All Saints Day, and I’m sure Manila traffic will be worse than normal, but I should have plenty of time to jump through whatever hoops lay ahead. Wish me luck!

6 thoughts on “Not quite paradise

  1. Good luck with the upcoming trip. Phnom Penh sounds fine as long as a person doesn’t engage in the typical white-expat/tourist vices. Why would you find yourself in a dark alley, anyway, right?

    Sorry to hear about the power outage. Electricity is something of a running joke on this blog, making existence unnecessarily tenuous. Maybe when you acquire your new property, you can think about investing in a generator.

    Nice cake!

  2. Take care in PP and watch your valuables. Loyal readers will be awaiting updates SO MAKE SURE YOU WRITE THEM.
    Have a great time.

  3. Dan, thanks for your support. I have every intention of continuing my daily drivel from Cambodia. Unless they break my fingers and steal my laptop…

  4. Kev, that’s right. It’s not as much about where you are in the world but more about what you’re doing. I sent that link to my friend living in Phnom Penh, and he said it was exaggerated bullshit. He’s been living there for several years and visiting prior to that and says PP was never “edgy” to begin with and he’s not noticed an increase in crime post-COVID. He takes common-sense precautions and has never felt threatened or in danger. I’ll take his word for it.

    Actually, the blue house does have a generator, just another plus. I can handle an occasional brownout, even if it lasts several hours. But almost three days this time was almost unbearable. By the way, with no power, I have no water pump. No water pump means no showers or flushing toilets. It’s an f’n nightmare.

  5. I am guessing that the article you linked and your friend are both correct.

    Different locations, different times out, etc.

    Your situation is somewhat indicative. You are well known in the area, generally out of the bars by 9 pm or so. If you were a stranger and out at 2-3 am, you may have a different story to tell.

    Having never been to Phnom Penh, I will be interested to get your perspective.

  6. Brian, yep, I’m looking forward to my return visit and hopefully some new stories to tell. Good stories, not the being mugged kind. 🙂

    Stay tuned!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *