The Chosun Bimbo has a post/survey up concerning what should be done about/with Itaewon. Go check it out.
I left this comment which is explains how I see and feel about Itaewon:
Yeah, they did the new sidewalks and gave vendors those standardized carts. But beyond the purely cosmetic changes has been a pretty dynamic shift in, for lack of a better word, attitude. Gone are a lot of the more sleazy bars catering to horny GIs and English teachers. These have been replaced by some really nice restaurants, many with street side dining. I think a good example of this transformation is the alley behind Hamilton Hotel.
Here’s the biggest change I’ve noted: Koreans are coming out to Itaewon in numbers that would have been unimaginable a few short years ago. The upscale restuarants make Itaewon a dining destination for more and more “natives”. Hell, I expect they enjoy the food almost as much as watching us waeguks passing by on the street.
Several great western-style bars and pubs have opened recently (check out Sam Ryan’s above 3 Alley Pub next time you are in town). What is truly amazing is that Korean-folk are venturing into these bars on a more and more frequent basis. I think it is pretty cool to see this intermingling (kinda like I’m actually living in foreign country!).
Anyway, Hooker Hill, Gay Hill, the tranny and juicy bars are all still there, but that scene is not so much “in your face” these days. I think they add flavor to a rather eccletic mix and would hate to see that eliminated.
Funny thing, last week I was quaffing a brew at Goldfish (a friendly Filipino owned streetside bar) and some tourists asked about how to find Hooker Hill (it’s actually right across the street from Goldfish). I had to laugh, because even at its sleaziest, Itaewon is apparently a tourist destination.
Cheers!
I agree with you John!
I used to be (circa 2002) a part of the “Itaewon is a dump” crowd – and in hindsight there was no real reason for it as I never bothered going. Among the foreign residents, some people seemed to carry this notion like an achievement badge or something silly like that.
This carried on until I discovered the darting community and bars in the ‘twan. It was at this point that I rediscovered Itaewon for the first time. Nice eateries were popping up all over the place with patios and very well done interiors. As you mentioned, the alley behind the Hamilton now has a fantastic collection of places that offer amazing choices – something that is quite difficult to find in Korea.
In regards to the bars, the days of the smoke filled, dirty, poorly lit dives (not that there is anything wrong with that!) are coming to an end. Many have remodeled and now offer smoke filled, well lit, and well decorated places to enjoy a drink or two. With their success, I am sure that others will continue to follow suit.
Itaewon is remodeling itself – and for the better. Let the market continue to take it along its’ natural course as it seems to be very much on the right track.
As for the shady side? It is more localized and less “in your face” than in many (if not most) nightlife areas in Seoul (or even in Korea for that matter). It is easily avoidable (unless you are in the SIDL and have to play at that shithole called Friends).
Nicely put, Goat. I’m guessing there ain’t no such thing as a smoke filled bar in Canada these days…