Here’s a quick update on my journey thus far.
Flew business class on Asiana which as usual was comfortable and well-serviced. Enjoyed a bowl of rice porridge and slept most of the trip. We arrived at Incheon right on schedule at 0700.
Since I was upfront, I was first off the plane and first in line at immigration. Sailed through there and headed down to baggage claim. I knew I’d have a wait, so I found a seat in the lavatory and enjoyed my first Korean bidet experience in over a year. After taking care of business I came out just as my bag was arriving on the carousel. Grabbed it and made my way to the airport railroad (AREX).
The express train didn’t leave until 8:10 arriving at Seoul Station forty minutes later. The “all-stops” train left at 7:40 and got me there sooner so I didn’t wait. Maybe should have as the train got crowded and a little uncomfortable. But I enjoyed the scenery along the way anyway. After being gone a little more than a year I was especially impressed with the infrastructure and just the way things “work” here. Pretty much the opposite of how things are in the Philippines.
Once I arrived at Seoul Station I made my way outside to the taxi stand and then decided to just walk to my hotel in Itaewon. It wasn’t even 9:00 a.m. yet and I doubted I’d be able to check-in so early. Walking wasn’t bad except for the dragging my wheeled suitcase behind me like a homeless person. Arm got tired after awhile but I switched out and carried on. The weather here is pleasantly cool and feels downright chilly compared to the hot sticky mess I had just left behind back home.
As I suspected the folks at the Crown hotel informed me that check-in wasn’t until 3:00 p.m. I asked (pleaded really) if I couldn’t get in earlier. The guy told me I could get the room at 1:00 and he wouldn’t charge me extra. I thanked him and checked my bags. Then I headed out to explore the mean streets of Itaewon.
I’m not sure if it’s the town that’s changed or if it is just me but it looked and felt different somehow. Some of the old familiar places were gone and others had moved to new locations. Lots of new shops and business too. It’s definitely an area in transition. Not real surprising given that almost all of the American military forces have moved south now. Still, plenty of foreigners out and about of course, just a different crowd.
And it wasn’t long before I started wrestling with the demons from the past again. I was a little surprised by how powerful those old memories were and how sad they made me. It was a good reminder that my life here has ended and I really am better off in the Philippines. How bad was I haunted? Almost to the point of contacting Asiana to see if I could change to an earlier departure date. Almost.
Anyway, I walked and walked. My former housekeeper Josie messaged me that she was at McDonlds so I met her there and we had a nice chat. Then I moved back out to the street and walked some more. Around 11:00 I was feeling hungry so I started looking for somewhere to eat. Linus’ BBQ wasn’t open yet and Manimals was closed too (permanently perhaps? The sign was somewhat ambiguous). Anyway, I decided to go for Mexican at On the Border.
After lunch I was able to check into my room and took a short nap. Then I did a nice walk along the Han riverside that looked like this:
Back to the room for a shower then I headed out for some nighttime activities at my favorite hangout–Shenanigans.
It was sweet when my favorite flower ajumma came in and saw me. She was so surprised and kind–gave me a big hug and told me how happy she was to see me again. I of course bought a bouquet flowers–just like old times.
I pay about $1.50 a beer in the PI. Here there were over $6.00. Ah well, I’m on vacation, but geez. Justin and I popped into Scrooge Pub which was pretty empty. The owner (a nice Korean woman I’m rather fond of) was not happy with her decision to get into the bar business, especially now that almost all her customer base is in Pyeongtaek. She wants to sell, but good luck finding a buyer. I told her we could open a bar together in Barretto but she didn’t seem interested in that idea at all. Ah well.
I was drunk and it was time to go home. A quick stop for a sundae at Dairy Queen and Justin and I said our goodnights. And so ended my first day back home in the Land of the Morning Calm.
An impressive amount of walking, indeed. Welcome back to the madness!
Imagine itaewon will eventually be overrun by young Korean types no more foreigners :^(
Jack, the demographics are definitely changing. Most of the new establishments seem to be designed to cater to young Koreans.