A touristy day

Did an all day tour yesterday, featuring the Cu Chi tunnels and the Mekong river delta area, both of which are about an hour and a half from Saigon. I do enjoy travel and seeing new places and things, but I don’t like being a tourist. Or to be more precise, I don’t enjoy guided tours much. Yesterday was a prime example of why.

Got picked up at the hotel as scheduled at 7:30, then drove a ways across town in heavy traffic to pick up more tourists. When everyone was on board a bit after 8:00 we headed south. Our tour guide was a 20-something Vietnamese man who said his name was “Laughing”. His English was almost understandable. He seemed very proud of his country and there is nothing wrong with that of course. But my first red flag of the day was when we pulled into a small factory where traditional Vietnam paintings made from eggshells and seashells were manufactured. Laughing told the government built the factory to enable area residents who had suffered birth defects after American use of poison gas during the war. I assumed he meant Agent Orange. Throughout the day, Laughing never missed an opportunity to regurgitate the anti-American propaganda he’d been fed his whole life.

Anyway, the factory was NOT part of the tour package and it was only mildly interesting to see the process used by the workers in creating their art. And surprise, surprise the guide led us into a large showroom full of completed objects available for our purchase. For the first of many times I muttered “this is bullshit”.

In due course we made on way onward to the Cu Chi tunnels that had been instrumental in the North’s attacks on the South throughout the war. It was a pretty impressive engineering fete, no question about it. Laughing’s commentary about the means and methods used to kill the American invaders got old pretty fast though. I found myself biting my tongue to avoid asking what about the South Vietnamese Army troops, who far outnumbered the Yanks, were as fun to kill as well. Anyway, you get the idea. And I acknowledge that the victor gets to write the history of the war in the manner of his choosing. Hell, I was a vocal opponent of the war back then, but something about Laughing’s gleeful stories about how the wise Viet Cong lured the foolish Americans into their gruesome traps was off-putting. I was glad to finally depart for the Mekong portion of the tour.

We stopped for lunch along the way and I’ll have to give credit where it is due, it was a damn fine meal. I’m going to do a “foodie” post tomorrow, so I’ll save that story and photos until then.

The Mekong was disappointing as well, or to be fair, not what I expected. I was envisioning a river cruise, instead we boarded a derelict river boat and went to the other side. Upon arrival, we were served a honey tea and some banana chips. Both were quite good. Then Laughing came around with a beehive and talked about how the honey was used in several “miracle” products to improve health and skin. And wouldn’t you know it? Those products just happened to be available for purchase. I thought now that is real B.S. (bee shit). I did buy some overpriced banana chips which were quite tasty.

Next we walked a bit up the river to a place where we were treated to some traditional Vietnamese music. I’m sorry, the Vietnamese spoken language is even more grating on the ears than Chinese. At least to me. And when sung it sounds like high pitched screeching. The instruments were twangy but not unpleasant however. Tip boxes were conveniently brought around to our tables and of course I contributed. After all, the did stop singing and that was a behavior worth rewarding!

We then walked some more, boarded golf carts for a bit, then walked through some yards (felt like Hashing almost), and then boarded some canoe like things for a ride down a canal and back to the riverside. We were encouraged to tip the boat rowers, and hell, they deserved it managing to move our fat asses downstream.

Once back on the river shore we were given a demonstration of how coconut candy was made. Didn’t much care about that, although the sample was tasty enough. And of course, they had some for sale. No thanks!

Back on the boat at last and we were provided some coconut juice (still in the shell) to enjoy. Then we boarded the van for the two hour ride back to Saigon, where we arrived at 6:00 p.m. It was a long day of touring and it took several hours of beer drinking last night to wash the taste out of my mouth. Here’s the photos:

A tunnel. I went into one but didn’t stay long. It required crawling around on my hands and knees to get through. No thanks!
One of the booby traps used to kill or maim American soldiers. No mention of the South Vietnam troops though.
Laughing took great pleasure in describing the way these traps caused painful injuries made worse by trying to escape.
More traditional killing machines were also on display…
By the end of the tour I was ready to kick some Viet Cong ass, not withstanding my opposition to the war…
An hour and a half later we stopped at this rest area for lunch. Nicest rest area I’ve ever seen and the food was quite good.
We finally arrived at the Mekong river…
And boarded this piece of shit for a river ride.
That’s Laughing describing how clean and wonderful the Mekong waters are, despite the brown color.
If you say so…
The bees that shit to make the honey that makes the miracle cures that just happened to be on sale…
Then it was time for a pain in the ears. Not saying they weren’t talented, just not to my liking.
Down this creek we were destined to travel…
Thankfully, we had two locals to do the paddling…
That would be me back aboard our river yacht enjoying some coconut juice.
And then a two hour ride back to Saigon. I’m told there are 7 million motorbikes in the city and I believe it…
I’m not sure what it is about a Vietnamese gal on a bike that trips my triggers. Oh wait, maybe she’s right!
Finished the night with beers and music from a Filipino band. Much easier on my old man ears, that’s for sure.

Alright, dinner plans tonight and hopefully something worthwhile to add to my foodie post tomorrow. Stay tuned!

3 thoughts on “A touristy day

  1. So… is Vietnam still a viable Plan B after your glimpse of the culture’s not-so-hidden hatred and resentment of the Yanks? It could be that encountering Vietnamese culture would be much more pleasant if you stayed away from guided tours and just walked the city with a friend/guide—someone with whom you could have a civil, frank, and more-or-less-deep discussion about how things have changed (and haven’t changed) since the war. What do other expats in Vietnam say about Vietnamese attitudes toward foreigners (especially white Westerners)?

    Looking forward to the “foodie” post.

  2. Yeah, I won’t be hiring a tour guide again this trip. I had planned to visit the war museum but think I’ll give that a pass as well.

    I did speak with Alex last night about how he’s been treated over the 2+ years in Saigon. He said only one person has told him to “go home” and that was a drunk. He asked an older Vietnamese gentleman he knows about the lack of animosity towards Americans. He simply responded “what’s to be mad about? We won!”

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