A rather laid-back day there in Hoi An yesterday. In fact, it was almost Barretto-like: a morning hike and an evening in the bars. There is nothing wrong with Hoi An, which might explain why the streets are packed with tourists. I can’t complain about that since I am one too, but honestly, I think it would make it hard for me to live here as an expat. Then again, it is likely the expat community has its own side of town away from the hustle and bustle of the tourist district. The locals here do seem much friendlier than those I observed in Da Nang.
On with the day. It was a little over 5K from the hotel to the beach. Traffic isn’t so bad here, but you do have to maintain situational awareness, especially with the omnipresent motorbikes racing about. We began in the “old town” district near the riverside, then passed through some rice fields before reaching the beachside urbanization. Here’s some of what we saw along the way:
Over the river near our hotel.Hoi An has a history of being a major trading center (mostly spice exports) with the Chinese back in the olden days.The streets of old town are full of shops catering to tourists.One of the temples we passed along the way.This is the first McDonald’s I’ve encountered on this trip. It’s like no other McDonald’s I’ve ever seen. No drive-thru, no parking, and housed in an old building. There’s also a KFC next door. It seems so weirdly out of place.This park enticed us in for a quick look around.I couldn’t find anything about this guy in a Google search (everything was in Vietnamese), but the placard said he was a scholar who became a leader opposed to French colonization and was executed for his resistance.That’s what my mama called me sometimes.Through the paddies…What do they call a carabao in Vietnam?Even out here in farm country, they have set traps for the tourists.Working for a living.My first thought when I saw those houses was, “We must be getting close to the ocean.”A river runs through it.Life on the river.Where’s the beef?Destination achieved!I saw zero locals on the beach.You can see Da Nang from here. That’s a zoom shot.We found a cozy place to grab some lunch and enjoy the beach view.“I blew out my flipflop, stepped on a pop top, cut my heel, had to cruise on back home…”When is the last time you’ve seen one of those?The route of our journey. We took a cab back to the hotel.This fat fuck was hanging out in our hotel lobby.
At the appointed hour, Swan and I headed out to do some exploring and find a place to grab dinner.
I wasn’t in the mood for colonial food.Um, no thank you.Off with our heads?A very friendly young Aussie guywelcomed us to the restaurant.I was craving some pulled pork, but had never seen it on a bed of fries. Sure, why not?Hmm, more fries than pork. It tasted alright, though.The view from our table
Oh, and there was a vendor next door selling something called “smoke ice cream.” Swan wanted to give it a try.
Neither of us liked it much.
Lantern boats on the river.
We decided to go back to the LyLy pub for some drinks and music. We were welcomed there like regulars.
The same trio from last night was performing. I asked our waitress where the singer was from, and she said, “Vietnam.” In my defense, did say “kamsamnida” when people applauded at the end of a song. A Vietnamese girl who speaks good English and knows some Korean. Wow! What are the odds?
Here’s a song for you:
Then we moved on to the Bob Marley bar for our nightcap.
They remembered us here, too.
Here’s the Marley’s duo (Filipinos) doing a song:
And now I have arrived in the historic city of Hue (pronounced “Who”), where I will be spending the next three days. First time here, so it will be fun to explore some.
In today’s entry from the September 2016 LTG archives, the story of my taking sand to the beach in the Philippines continues.
Today’s YouTube video is an introduction to the things to see and do in Hue. I’ve never heard “Hue” pronounced as “He” before, but then again, I’ve been calling it “Hew” for as long as I can remember.
Now for the funny business:
Something doesn’t add up…Just turn the page.Aren’t they all?
Okay, onward I must go! More to come tomorrow.
11 thoughts on “Day eight, pretty great”
Should have chosen the “colonial” food.
I couldn’t find anything about this guy in a Google search (everything was in Vietnamese), but the placard said he was a scholar who became a leader opposed to French colonization and was executed for his resistance.
Right-click (or do whatever counts as right-clicking on your laptop) on this page, then hit “Translate to English,” and you’ll see plenty.
Today’s YouTube video is an introduction to the things to see and do in Hue. I’ve never heard “Hue” pronounced as “He” before, but then again, I’ve been calling it “Hew” for as long as I can remember.
The AI god says:
The Vietnamese city of Huế is pronounced differently by region, but generally sounds like “Hway” (Northern/Central) or closer to “Way” (Southern/HCMC), with the northern version having a distinct falling-rising tone, like a soft “Hway” with a questioning or surprised lift at the end (IPA: [hwej˨˩˦]), while the Southern version drops the ‘h’ and sounds more like “Way” (IPA: [wej˦˥]), not like the English color “hue” (hyoo).
Everything looks very nice, but also very tourist-trappy. Are you trying any traditional Vietnamese food, or are you sticking to the Western stuff?
Looks a heck of a lot cleaner than Barretto. Especially those pics of your walk to the beach.
Never have even thought of retiring to the PI, but for me, the littering and garbage would be a real turn off.
I would retire in Thailand. The Flips disgusts me.
Barret, it’s good to have options. Thailand has its minuses, too.
Brian, Vietnam is definitely much cleaner. I think, in part, it is a cultural thing, but they also take steps like placing trashcans in strategic locations. I don’t recall ever seeing a litter barrel in the PI.
There are definitely some other pluses here compared to the PI, and in my do-over life I might choose differently. Still, the language barrier here is a big hurdle. I’d also have to find somewhere less touristy.
Kevin, thanks for the “right-click tip.” I never knew that’s how it worked.
Yep, that’s the Hway I hear Hue pronounced around here.
I agree, the tourist vibe isn’t my favorite. As for the food, well, the menu is in Vietnamese (with English translations) and is prepared by Vietnamese cooks, so, in that sense, I’m eating local delicacies.
Truth, I asked if they had “la ferme” but didn’t get an answer.
Truth, I asked if they had “la ferme” but didn’t get an answer. Oh well, maybe next time.
I am sure it is a cultural thing. For example, why are subway systems in Asia (at least the ones I have been on) pretty spotless and people respect the rules, unlike places in the US?
But, the culture can be changed. I just got back from Taiwan, and 20 years ago, traffic sucked. Not so much the amount, but the lack of rule following, especially by scooters. Fast forward to now, and it is like night and day. Everybody (cars and scooters and bikes) stops at stoplights, and even more so, they stop before the crosswalk so people can cross safely and don’t have to dodge vehicles blocking their way.
Don’t know what your thoughts are on public cameras, but in this case, it has helped tremendously. There are cameras on almost every stoplight stanchion. Calling out people for their behavior and fining them has worked until it is second nature. Kind of like seat belts in the US. Seems like Taiwan made a concerted effort to clean up this aspect of society.
The PI could do something similar. But, obviously not a priority. The island you recently went to seems to be on top of the garbage situation, so maybe they should export their methods to the rest of the country.
I think prioritizing the garbage situation would have a lot of positive spill over to the rest of society – and probably would increase the tourism numbers.
Brian, when I was a kid, there was a big anti-littering campaign. Lots of TV commercials (I still remember the crying Indian) and signage. Something like that, along with putting out trashcans for people to use, would make a difference. And yes, the trashed environment must be a turn-off for tourists.
I wish Vietnam would do something like Taiwan did with the lawless motor scooters. There must be five or more bikes for every car, and they ride crazy all over the road. Also, park their scooters on the sidewalks, forcing pedestrians into the streets, where you have to dodge the traffic. Crossing the street feels like a game of Frogger. You pretty much just have to walk at a steady pace and let them go around you. Probably my biggest dislike about this country.
Cameras in public spaces don’t bother me. They won’t help, though, if the authorities continue not enforce the law. The Philippines has plenty of room to improve; perhaps the dearth of tourists will motivate the government to make some much-needed changes.
Should have chosen the “colonial” food.
I couldn’t find anything about this guy in a Google search (everything was in Vietnamese), but the placard said he was a scholar who became a leader opposed to French colonization and was executed for his resistance.
Right-click (or do whatever counts as right-clicking on your laptop) on this page, then hit “Translate to English,” and you’ll see plenty.
Today’s YouTube video is an introduction to the things to see and do in Hue. I’ve never heard “Hue” pronounced as “He” before, but then again, I’ve been calling it “Hew” for as long as I can remember.
The AI god says:
Pronunciation audio here.
Everything looks very nice, but also very tourist-trappy. Are you trying any traditional Vietnamese food, or are you sticking to the Western stuff?
Looks a heck of a lot cleaner than Barretto. Especially those pics of your walk to the beach.
Never have even thought of retiring to the PI, but for me, the littering and garbage would be a real turn off.
I would retire in Thailand. The Flips disgusts me.
Barret, it’s good to have options. Thailand has its minuses, too.
Brian, Vietnam is definitely much cleaner. I think, in part, it is a cultural thing, but they also take steps like placing trashcans in strategic locations. I don’t recall ever seeing a litter barrel in the PI.
There are definitely some other pluses here compared to the PI, and in my do-over life I might choose differently. Still, the language barrier here is a big hurdle. I’d also have to find somewhere less touristy.
Kevin, thanks for the “right-click tip.” I never knew that’s how it worked.
Yep, that’s the Hway I hear Hue pronounced around here.
I agree, the tourist vibe isn’t my favorite. As for the food, well, the menu is in Vietnamese (with English translations) and is prepared by Vietnamese cooks, so, in that sense, I’m eating local delicacies.
Truth, I asked if they had “la ferme” but didn’t get an answer.
Truth, I asked if they had “la ferme” but didn’t get an answer. Oh well, maybe next time.
I am sure it is a cultural thing. For example, why are subway systems in Asia (at least the ones I have been on) pretty spotless and people respect the rules, unlike places in the US?
But, the culture can be changed. I just got back from Taiwan, and 20 years ago, traffic sucked. Not so much the amount, but the lack of rule following, especially by scooters. Fast forward to now, and it is like night and day. Everybody (cars and scooters and bikes) stops at stoplights, and even more so, they stop before the crosswalk so people can cross safely and don’t have to dodge vehicles blocking their way.
Don’t know what your thoughts are on public cameras, but in this case, it has helped tremendously. There are cameras on almost every stoplight stanchion. Calling out people for their behavior and fining them has worked until it is second nature. Kind of like seat belts in the US. Seems like Taiwan made a concerted effort to clean up this aspect of society.
The PI could do something similar. But, obviously not a priority. The island you recently went to seems to be on top of the garbage situation, so maybe they should export their methods to the rest of the country.
I think prioritizing the garbage situation would have a lot of positive spill over to the rest of society – and probably would increase the tourism numbers.
Brian, when I was a kid, there was a big anti-littering campaign. Lots of TV commercials (I still remember the crying Indian) and signage. Something like that, along with putting out trashcans for people to use, would make a difference. And yes, the trashed environment must be a turn-off for tourists.
I wish Vietnam would do something like Taiwan did with the lawless motor scooters. There must be five or more bikes for every car, and they ride crazy all over the road. Also, park their scooters on the sidewalks, forcing pedestrians into the streets, where you have to dodge the traffic. Crossing the street feels like a game of Frogger. You pretty much just have to walk at a steady pace and let them go around you. Probably my biggest dislike about this country.
Cameras in public spaces don’t bother me. They won’t help, though, if the authorities continue not enforce the law. The Philippines has plenty of room to improve; perhaps the dearth of tourists will motivate the government to make some much-needed changes.